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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Pork belly tacos, polenta, and drinks, Takito Kitchen

Pork belly tacos with sesame tortilla, morita salsa, fresh mozzarella, pickled onions, and arugula
Pork belly tacos with sesame tortilla, morita salsa, fresh mozzarella, pickled onions, and arugula

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: With its prime people-watching location, irresistibly snackable menu, and creative seasonal drinks, this new high-end taqueria in Wicker Park practically screams Chicago summer. My dear friend and I were completely enchanted by our weeknight spot on the patio as we debriefed from the wedding we’d attended the weekend before. Of the tacos we ordered, the pork belly with fresh mozzarella and pickled onions was my favorite, well-balanced even with the rich pork belly. The polenta, made with locally sourced grains and cheese, blew me away with its creaminess punctuated by smoky bits of bacon, and the masa crackers were an especially delicious vehicle for sampling each of the three complex salsas. It was tough to decide on a drink, but I landed on the ¿Por qué No?, which paired just the right fruits with mezcal without being overly sweet. I think I’ll be spending more balmy nights on this patio in the coming weeks – assuming I can get a seat.

¿Por qué No? cocktail with lemon, blueberry, peach, and Sombra Mezcal
¿Por qué No? cocktail with lemon, blueberry, peach, and Sombra Mezcal
Polenta with cheddar, smoked bacon, pickled chilies, and cilantro
Polenta with cheddar, smoked bacon, pickled chilies, and cilantro
Tomatillo pistachio salsa, tomato hibiscus ghost pepper salsa, and avocado salsa verde, served with masa and rice crackers
Tomatillo pistachio salsa, tomato hibiscus ghost pepper salsa, and avocado salsa verde, served with masa and rice crackers

The details: Takito Kitchen , 2013 W Division St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Wood-grilled octopus, Taxim

Wood-grilled octopus with fennel and red onions, Taxim
Wood-grilled octopus with fennel and red onions (Htapodáki sti schára), Taxim

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: For me, this octopus dish was all about texture. While I had high expectations after everything I’d heard about this Wicker Park restaurant, chef David Schneider still blew me away by managing to eliminate every ounce of rubberiness from the octopus. It was almost closer to a firm crab meat, unlike any octopus I’ve ever tasted. The smokiness from the grill seemed to evoke the essence of Greek cuisine, with the well-caramelized fennel, onion, and peppers adding aromatic depth. Even a couple of my friends who were octopus-shy enjoyed their bites! The dish was in good company with smoky eggplant dip, fried cauliflower, and other excellent savory and sweet plates, but it remained the star of the meal.

Arches and light fixtures inside Taxim
Arches and light fixtures inside Taxim
Cocktail with Greek grape brandy, honey, and lemon, served warm
Cocktail with Greek grape brandy, honey, and lemon, served warm

The details: Taxim, 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Maple pancakes from Jam and shrimp & grits from Carriage House

Maple pancakes with meyer lemon custard, sugar, citrus, Jam
Maple pancakes with meyer lemon custard, Indian sugar brûlée & citrus rind conserve, Jam
Shrimp, grits, gravy & tasso, Carriage House
Shrimp, grits, hunter gravy & tasso, Carriage House

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I had two excellent brunch dishes this week, and they were different enough – apart from their color scheme, apparently – that it was too difficult to choose a favorite. On the sweeter side, these citrusy pancakes from Jam were like a light lemon crème brûlée with a maple foundation from the cake itself. The toasty sugar and candied rind added great crunch…and don’t even get me started on the bacon-sausage I ordered on the side (that’s right: sausage made from bacon). I think I liked these even better than the decadent chocolate ones I featured from last year – and I also promise that Jam has more than just pancakes!

On the savory side, these shrimp and grits from Carriage House, which I first visited during Restaurant Week, were just the classic I was hoping for. The head-on shrimp were nicely cooked, the grits were creamy, and the gravy didn’t skimp on smoky, meaty flavor. I was also satisfied with the portion size, especially since we couldn’t pass up a little skillet cornbread on the side (I still can’t figure out their secret, but it is delicious).

I fight the sweet vs. savory battle on every brunch menu. Savory usually wins, so I’m glad that in this case, I can call it a tie.

The details: Jam, 3057 W Logan Blvd., Chicago; Carriage House, 1700 W Division St., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Blackbird and Carriage House

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Lunch at Blackbird

Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird
Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird

Best Bite: While no dish was less than excellent, I was most wowed by the starter, a superbly delicate piece of smoked Arctic char. I loved the crunch from cauliflower and pear, and just enough meatiness from the tiny dollop of ‘nduja, a type of spreadable salami. It set the tone for the other unique flavor combinations to follow. See full menu.

Other notes: Gorgeous plating, quiet space, surprising main course accompaniments (onion noodles and buttermilk sauce to go with grilled sturgeon), and decadent dessert (an elegant Nutella-banana mash-up) with coffee service.

Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird
Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird

The details: Blackbird, 619 W Randolph St., Chicago.

Dinner at Carriage House

Crispy braised pork shoulder
Crispy braised pork shoulder entree, Carriage House

Best Bite: The entree best showed off the restaurant’s upscale take on low-country cuisine. The melt-in-your-mouth pork shoulder came with a host of balanced companions: smoked plums, pickled peppers, and celery hearts, atop grits and pork jus. With prevalent vinegar to cut through the richness, it was a pleasantly refined Southern dish. See full menu.

Other notes: Outstanding side of skillet cornbread, divine coffee-fudge dipping sauce for the beignets at dessert, tasty (and strong) rum punch, colorful ceramic dishware, and a table in the cozy porch area, with plaid flannel blankets over the chairs and plenty of candles.

Skillet cornbread, Carriage House
Skillet cornbread, Carriage House

The details: Carriage House, 1700 W Division St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #25: Sauerkraut bagel, Trenchermen

Merry Christmas! Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Sauerkraut bagel
Sauerkraut bagel

Why it’s a Best Bite: Another one of this year’s most anticipated restaurant openings, I was finally able to make it to Trenchermen for brunch with friends who were in town for Northwestern’s homecoming. While most of the dishes were intriguing takes on breakfast, I have a hard time passing up anything bagel-related. The bagel was both steeped and crusted in order to be fully infused with sauerkraut flavor, an impressive feat in itself, and paired nicely with heaping smoked salmon, pickled red onion, and greens. But the real revelation for me was the mustard cream cheese. It was such a logical concept that I couldn’t believe I hadn’t seen or thought of it before. I’m now inspired to whip up my own with good-quality grainy mustard and use it on bagel sandwiches.

The details: Trenchermen, 2039 W North Ave, Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #14: Chicken tacos, Antique Taco

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Chicken tacos
Chicken tacos

Why it’s a Best Bite: When I heard Antique Taco described as “a taco stand meets farmers market meets Anthropologie,” I had no doubt that the atmosphere would be delightful. My first visit was for a close friend’s birthday, and we were immediately impressed by all the artistic details (such as the intricate china pictured above). Of all the tacos we ordered, I didn’t expect these to be my favorite, but I appreciated the subtle, sweet-and-sour balance of marinated chicken, honey yogurt, pickled red onions, and cucumbers. The market-fresh ingredients and generous fillings make the tacos here a contender for the city’s best.

The details: Antique Taco, 1360 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #5: Paris benedict, Prasino

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Paris benedict
Paris benedict

Why it’s a Best Bite: This sunny weekday brunch with a great friend (who also happens to be a talented artist) was a highlight of my January. Although eco-conscious Prasino does offer a wide variety of tempting — and healthier — options, we both decided to go all-out and stick to the benedict section of the menu. Over-the-top rich in the best way, this particularly creative benedict had me at pretzel croissant (and brie…and truffle hollandaise…). Crispy potatoes on the side were a welcome contrast to all the creamy toppings.

The details: Prasino, 1846 W Division St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #1: Roasted brussels sprouts & cauliflower, Francesca’s Forno

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Roasted brussels sprouts & cauliflower

Why it’s a Best Bite: I got to share this large appetizer with a dear friend last New Year’s Eve. It won me over immediately with a generously caramelized blend of brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and onion. The dish struck just the right balance of salty, crispy, and cheesy goodness, with added depth from capers, lemon, and, of course, bacon. Rich and a little messy, it was the right way to start off a celebratory evening.

The details: Francesca’s Forno, 1576 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.