Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Nico has been near the top of my list since it opened late last year, having already earned local and national accolades that are now becoming routine for Paul Kahan’s restaurants. We began the evening on the patio facing bustling Rush Street and snacked on a grilled octopus fettunta (Nico’s term for grilled bread with toppings, much like bruschetta) that was bejeweled by grapefruit and preserved lemon for double the acidity. It was lovely alongside my Venus in Furs cocktail, smoky and refreshing on such a muggy evening.
Before we knew it, a thunderstorm had set in and we were quickly moved inside to the bar. It wasn’t long before a pristine whole branzino arrived, salt-crusted and studded with tender forest mushrooms and sweet zante currants. The fish was buttery and perfectly flaky, although it’s worth noting that Gold Coast prices make it expensive enough to be more of a special-occasion centerpiece. And on the side, a tangle of grilled ramps reminded me why their short season is so cherished. Their mild onion flavor melted beautifully into the salt-cod crema, with crunch from almonds and lingering char from the grill.
And we couldn’t skip dessert – not when pastry chef Amanda Rockman is hailed as one of the city’s best and is responsible for such masterpieces as Balena’s gelato sundaes. While I loved the affogato – espresso poured over cardamom-sweet cream gelato for a “dirty chai” effect – I was even more impressed by the Nico torte. It was like eating all the best lemon desserts at the same time: the crusty bottom of the cake with lemon filling soaked inside evoked a lemon bar, but together with the poppyseed gelato, it transformed into a muffin; add in the pickled blueberries and lemon curd on the plate, and it became a summer parfait. The Nico torte changes seasonally, so I’ll have to return for more variations.
The details: Nico Osteria, 1015 N. Rush St., Chicago.
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