Best Bite: When it comes to French bistro fare, steak frites is about as classic as it gets, and this version was transportive. The well-seasoned steak was a tender medium-rare, the frites were especially crispy, and the peppery sauce was rich with just enough creaminess. The mini dessert trio was just as well executed, though; and I was certainly relieved to not have to choose between mousse and crème brûlée. See full menu.
Dessert trio with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée, and meyer lemon sorbet
Other notes: The oven-roasted escargots were an indulgent start to the meal, but perhaps even better was dipping pieces of our still-hot baguette into the leftover garlic-herb butter. I couldn’t let those remnants go to waste! The cozy bistro environs were perfect for discussing exciting upcoming travel plans with two girlfriends, especially over a food-friendly Côtes du Rhône red.
Piping hot baguette to start the meal
The details:Mon Ami Gabi, 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, Chicago.
Best Bite: The meatballs boasted major beef flavor, with enough moisture to retain a smooth texture, and the house-made ravioli was silky and nutty. But it was the chocolate budino dessert that stole my heart: a rich chocolate pudding with a salt-flecked layer of caramel, and crunchy coated cocoa nibs on top. I didn’t understand why the handle of its accompanying spoon was quite so long, but it didn’t stop me from finishing every drop. See full menu.
Bill’s chocolate budino with salted caramel and cocoa nibs (plus an extra-long spoon)
Other notes: Bill and Giuliana Rancic are partners in the restaurant, so I assumed the dining room’s aesthetic would be ultra-polished for its clientele – and it was, everything in stylish black and white. The “cicchetti” of provolone-stuffed peppers and florentine frittelles were nice snacks to start off the meal.
Ravioli a la RPM with walnuts and arugula pesto
The details:RPM Italian, 52 W. Illinois St., Chicago.
Red apple orchard sangria (shiraz, brandy, apple juice, and cinnamon sticks) at our fireside table
Best Bite: ZED451’s churrasceria-style format was a hit with our group of nine. The $33 menu price included all we could eat from the “harvest table” of salads and charcuterie, plus unlimited chicken, steak, and salmon, and a final dessert, so it was an especially good Restaurant Week value. Several of the harvest table’s offerings were creative, flavorful mash-ups, such as guacamole deviled eggs and caesar salad made from brussels sprouts. With so many more eclectic options than that of a standard salad bar, it was even easier to fill up before the meat arrived. I also took the suggestion of a sign at the charcuterie station and saved some of the Shiraz butter to spread onto a piece of sirloin (it was a great suggestion). A pitcher of cinnamon-apple sangria also suited the festive occasion. See full menu.
Broccoli cheddar soup, brussels sprout caesar salad, guacamole deviled eggs, spicy Thai apple and carrot salads, sautéed wild mushrooms, and more bounty from the harvest table
Other notes: Somewhere between our second round of salads and the first round of meat, our server brought miniature, meat-studded biscuits served in a repurposed escargot pan – with melted butter in the middle round spot – that were very popular at our table. The buzzing atmosphere was great for a large group, with our long table extending out from a sizable round fireplace in the center of the room. As a final touch that was befitting of tony River North, the restaurant offered us a free private shuttle that took us a few miles north toward our next destination.
Bread basket with assorted breads, house pickles, honey butter, and tomato-herb oil
Best Bite: As soon as the bread basket arrived, with jars of honey butter and tomato-herb oil ready to slather on cornbread and laminated brioche, I knew it was going to be an exceptionally thoughtful meal. Fresh, seasonal ingredients came together beautifully in all three courses, but dessert is the one I’m still thinking about most. The dish was a tantalizing combination of rolled dark chocolate cremeux, tiny crystallized thyme leaves, bourbon-scented powder, a slick of toasted marshmallow, and earthy beets two ways: in thin vanilla slices and as creamy sorbet. I loved everything about it – which I never thought I would say about a beet dessert. See full menu.
Beet dessert with chocolate cremeux, crystalized thyme, and beet buttermilk sherbet
Other notes: The pan-fried, maple-glazed sweetbreads entree packed richness into a light portion. I’m proud to report that two of my girlfriends were feeling adventurous and ordered the sweetbreads as well – both were first-timers, and both approved! I also loved the whimsical tuft of cotton candy on top of the chestnut dessert, among other creative garnishes. The indoor space had a rustic feel, with reclaimed windows as creative dividers, but I’m looking forward to going back in the spring for the full outdoor rooftop experience.
Maple-glazed sweetbreads with pickled pears and salsify puree
Braised pork shank “off the bone” and carnaroli risotto with squash, caramelized onions, and wilted kale
Best Bite: Naha is a Chicago institution for locally sourced, seasonal cuisine, and I was really looking forward to finally dining there. Uncharacteristically, I ordered pork for both my first and second courses, but I certainly did not regret it. I still can’t decide which impossibly tender preparation I preferred: the sweeter belly with apples and fennel atop pastry crust with a swipe of sweet quince marmalade; or the rich braised shank, with flawless risotto and the best crispy kale I’ve ever had. See full menu.
“Tarte tatin” of winter harvested apples and pork belly with quince marmalade and shaved fennel
Other notes: I was charmed by the cookie platter, although I’m glad my dining companions also shared their chocolate cheesecake and cheese plate with me – the latter’s selection of three cheeses were unanimously proclaimed to be “stupid good.” Service was appropriately attentive for the elegant atmosphere. My wine-savvy friend selected an outstanding bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir to pair with our meal, but I doubt you could go wrong with anything from the luxe wine list.
Best Bite: Technically, I had two out of the three available options as my third course: a slice of cake that was gooey and sweet, just as it should be, and a revelatory dessert cocktail with round flavors of vanilla and lemon that were superbly balanced with bitters. In fact, that course was representative of the whole meal. All the dishes were thoughtfully composed, but the cocktails ended up stealing the spotlight – I tasted three others made with in-house spirits, each one more complex and interesting than the next. At a distillery, though, I’m perfectly OK with that pattern. See full menu (third course is outdated).
Gooey butter cake and The Travel Agent dessert cocktail, with CH vanilla-infused rum, limoncello, lemon, and peychaud’s bitters
Other notes: The sweetness and spices in the butternut squash soup reminded me a lot of this one, adapted from a Rick Bayless recipe – which was definitely a good thing. For the gravlax entree, buttery salmon was cured with CH gin, which added citrus and floral notes, and beets, which gave it a burgundy hue. The fish, joined by lemon, dill, and a cracker-like flatbread for crunch, was a perfect complement to the cocktails. I really loved the space, too, from the glowing bar and fiber-optic lighting to the clear view of the gleaming stills and other equipment.
Butternut squash soup with creme fraiche
The details:CH Distillery, 564 W. Randolph St., Chicago.
Spicy Moroccan carrot salad with Greek yogurt, ginger, lime, and grilled scallions, inspired by Alice Waters
Best Bite: Executive chef Zoë Schor designed Ada Street’s Restaurant Week menu around a unique theme: each option for the three courses paid tribute to a different female chef. As impressed as I was with all the concepts, I was the most wowed by a seemingly simple carrot salad based on an Alice Waters recipe. The flash-blanched carrot slices and grilled scallions were fresh and aromatic, with a cool yogurt sauce that tempered the pleasant heat from chiles and spices. Everyone at our table agreed they couldn’t get enough. See full menu.
Scrumpets with crispy fried lamb shoulder and minted malt vinegar, inspired by April Bloomfield
Other notes: I also loved the crispy lamb scrumpets, the only dish that’s also offered on Ada Street’s regular menu. For entrees, the smoked carrot puree that accompanied the pork loin was a brilliant addition, and the classic bouillabaisse did Julia Child justice, down to the last briny, saffron-scented drop. Don’t be swayed by the off-the-beaten-path location: finding this cozy, dimly lit hideaway is totally worth it.
Bouillabaisse with Bangs Island mussels, manila clams, gulf shrimp, cobia, saffron-infused broth, and toasted baguette, inspired by Julia Child
Beef stroganoff with mustard spaetzle, mushroom, and peppered cream
Best Bite: The signature beef short rib stroganoff was an ideal winter entree, with a substantial portion of tender meat flanked by hearty mushrooms and dabs of peppery cream sauce. And if a dish comes with spaetzle, I will mostly likely order it, so I was especially impressed by this spot-on mustard variety. The soup course came in a close second-favorite, a chestnut bisque with a surprising combination of sweetness and complexity from allspice, sage, and rosemary marshmallow. See full menu.
Banana split with vanilla bean, candied hazelnut, and pretzel crumb
Other notes: I loved the dessert presentation of a layered banana split in a mason jar. I’m also pretty sure our table was the best in the house: a private, high-backed booth with room to spare for our four-person party and a brightly colored stained glass window enclosing one end.
After 10 days of indulgent dining, Chicago Restaurant Week 2013 came to an end on Sunday. While I’m a little forlorn that the week is over, I’m also very grateful for seven excellent meals, and the chance to share them with you here.
My Instagram photo recaps of each meal are shown in the gallery; follow the links below to read more:
This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.
Lunch at Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Endive and blue cheese salad with almonds and membrillo, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Best Bite: The generously portioned endive salad was a unique start to our lively meal. Amid the tang of blue cheese and vinaigrette, I especially appreciated the membrillo (sweet quince paste) and marcona almonds. Colorful, too – especially with my pomegranate mimosa as a backdrop. See full menu.
Other notes: Definitely the best value of the week, with soup, bread, cold tapas, warm tapas, and dessert for the $22 lunch price – it was the first time I took home leftovers! Speaking of the soup, it was creamy, comforting mushroom, with a manchego toast that made it feel almost like a Spanish version of french onion soup. Also enjoyed my petite caramelized banana dessert, with lots of crushed pistachios. Cheerful, bustling atmosphere as always.
Mushroom soup with manchego toast, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Miso-bronzed black cod with red curry and glazed eggplant, Sunda
Best Bite: So many fun courses at Sunda, but I couldn’t get enough of this miso-bronzed black cod. Don’t let its plain appearance fool you: the buttery fish was ultra-flavorful from the miso and red curry, and the glazed eggplant underneath was a revelation for this eggplant skeptic. It also served as a nice contrast to pork belly sticks in the previous course, and left enough room for me to enjoy my chocolate mousse for dessert. See full menu.
Other notes: Besides the great food, our group of 8 also thoroughly relished Sunda’s exotic cocktails. Of all the varieties, the Grass Tiger (below) was the clear winner for me. I adored the heat of jalapeño-infused gin with cool ginger beer, mint, lemongrass, and more citrus. You can even check out the restaurant’s Vine video of a bartender mixing this delicious drink.
Grass Tiger cocktail with jalapeño-infused gin and ginger beer, Sunda
Best Bite: When I saw all the game meat featured on Frontier’s gastropub-y menu, I knew I’d go straight for the wild boar chop. I loved the flavors of the meat and sauce, and with the sweet potato puree, toasted marshmallow, and crispy kale, it was basically a hunter’s Thanksgiving. See full menu.
Other notes: Duck tacos and antelope meatballs with gnocchi were both tasty starters, and Frontier pulled off its s’more dessert with just the right level of char and melty chocolate. Great beers and cozy fireplace too.
S’more, Frontier
The details:Frontier, 1072 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
