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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #10: Risotto al forno, Lula Café

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Risotto al forno with lamb, cauliflower bechamel, leek, roasted corn, sungold tomato, 60-minute egg, and parmesan
Risotto al forno with lamb, cauliflower bechamel, leek, roasted corn, sungold tomato, 60-minute egg, and parmesan

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: It’s no surprise that Lula popped up as another one of my favorites this year; I go there frequently (I often acknowledge how spoiled I am to live so close by) and am impressed by dish after ultra-seasonal dish. This breakfast-slanted risotto was an especially glorious taste of summer’s bounty: toasty cauliflower, roasted corn, golden tomatoes, leeks, and slow-cooked 60-minute egg, with a protein boost from local lamb and topped with parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. I savored each creamy bite as I read my Bon Appétit August issue and soaked up some rays at my patio table.

View another Best Bite from Lula Café.

The details: Lula Café, 2537 N Kedzie Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #7: Hush puppies and shrimp toast, Parson’s Chicken and Fish

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Hush puppies with ham hock, cream cheese, scallion, and harissa aioli; and shrimp toast with shrimp salad, creme fraiche, butter lettuce, and avocado
Hush puppies with ham hock, cream cheese, scallion, and harissa aioli; and shrimp toast with shrimp salad, creme fraiche, butter lettuce, and avocado

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: It seems like half of Chicago spent their summer lounging on the patio at Parson’s Chicken and Fish, sipping a negroni slushy under the shade of striped umbrellas. While its namesake proteins certainly don’t disappoint, I wanted to spotlight two appetizers that I would go back for again and again: the hush puppies and the shrimp toast. The shrimp salad screamed fresh, with a subtle drizzle of creme fraiche and avocado atop butter lettuce and golden Texas toast. And dunking those perfectly fried, ham hock-and-scallion-studded cornmeal balls into a spicy harissa aioli was nothing short of bar snack heaven.

View another Best Bite from Parson’s.

The details: Parson’s Chicken and Fish, 2952 W Armitage Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #5: Goat cheese chilaquiles, Estrella Negra

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

La  Jaras goat cheese chilaquiles with over-easy eggs, bean dip, salsa verde, guacamole, and sour cream
La Jaras goat cheese chilaquiles with over-easy eggs, chicken, bean dip, salsa verde, guacamole, and sour cream

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: I’ve driven by Estrella Negra multiple times a week for years now, but didn’t make it in for breakfast until the middle of this year. The goat cheese chilaquiles were cheesy and filling, with extra-crunchy tortilla strips, hearty beans, and runny egg yolk that blended everything together. I also liked the use of salsa verde and guacamole to brighten up a dish that’s typically dominated by red sauce.

The details: Estrella Negra, 2346 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites

This week’s Best Bite: BLAST sandwich, The Brown Sack

BLAST sandwich, a classic BLT with shrimp and avocado on wheat bread
BLAST sandwich, a classic BLT with shrimp and avocado on wheat bread

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Sometimes you just need a really great sandwich, and this past week I found one at a place I hadn’t visited in a while. The Brown Sack is a neighborhood favorite that has managed to stay out of the buzzy Logan Square spotlight, quietly making its superb sandwiches and shakes on a tucked-away residential block. The BLAST sandwich takes a BLT to the next level by throwing in shrimp and avocado – and now that I’ve had it, I don’t think I can ever go back to its three-letter predecessor. This might have to do with my conviction that basically everything is better with avocado; even so, this combination was especially magical. Each bite offered the perfect proportions of cool, creamy, bright, crunchy, and smoky, with nice briny sweetness and texture from the shrimp. And like most great sandwiches, its crucial adhesive was a healthy layer of mayo slathered onto crisp toasted bread. Next time, I might get extravagant and pair it with a shake, but this stacked masterpiece is more than satisfying enough on its own.

The details: The Brown Sack, 3581 W. Belden Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: artisanal cheese board and Oktoberfest beer, Revolution Brewing

Revolution's German-style Oktoberfest beer
Revolution’s German-style Oktoberfest beer

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Of all the great things ushered in by this new season, autumnal beers are near the top of the list. And while I’m always excited to try whatever new offerings are on tap at Revolution’s Logan Square brewpub, this year’s Oktoberfest has proven to be one of my all-time favorites. It had lots of caramel and spice notes without being too heavy, and would pair well with pretty much any fall food. I typically skip over cheese plates when reading a menu, but this thoughtful board was a good reminder to stop overlooking them. The three cheese selections on a recent weeknight were each excellent, especially the smoked gorgonzola (I had to restrain myself from devouring all the pieces on the board). The spiced pears, pickled vegetables, and candied peanuts all offered pleasant contrasts without clashing with any of the cheeses. Between that and the other dishes we ordered, Revolution is continuing to prove that it takes its food just as seriously as its beer.

Revolution Brewing artisanal cheeses
Wild rice gouda, aged cheddar, and smoked gorgonzola cheeses, with pear compote, pickled vegetables, candied peanut, and spent grain crackers

The details: Revolution Brewing, 2323 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Boss Hog sandwich, Gaslight Coffee Roasters

Boss Hog sandwich with ham, red cabbage, spicy giardiniera, and BBQ chips
Boss Hog sandwich with ham, red cabbage, spicy giardiniera, and BBQ chips on an onion roll

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’ve sipped coffee and espresso many times at this neighborhood fave, but this was my first time ordering from the food menu. And while putting potato chips on a sandwich is a custom I fully support, it’s rare to see one served that way straight from the kitchen. Gaslight is definitely onto something with the towering Boss Hog, a squishy, sweet onion roll piled with ham, some seriously spicy pickle-jalapeño giardiniera, and plenty of barbecue chips. It was the ideal crunchy lunch to go with my iced Americano as I powered through some work.

The details: Gaslight Coffee Roasters, 2385 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Mexican Firing Squad cocktail and churros, Masa Azul

Mexican Firing Squad, with tequila blanco, grenadine, lime, bitters, and soda; and churros with orange zest
Mexican Firing Squad, with tequila blanco, grenadine, lime,
bitters, and soda; and churros with dark chocolate sauce and orange zest

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I ventured over to Masa Azul while on a post-thunderstorm walk one evening, in the mood for a refreshing drink and something sweet to go with it. This was my second visit to Masa Azul, although my very first experience with head bartender Jenny Kessler’s cocktails was at Lula Cafe’s “Violent Hour” Halloween transformation last year. The delicious drink involved mezcal, apple cider, malbec, and serrano pepper, and I’ve jumped at the chance to try more of her imaginative combinations ever since. The Mexican Firing Squad was a nice balance of fruit, fizz, and smooth tequila flavor, and was ideal for sipping out on the sidewalk patio. The miniature round churros, the restaurant’s sole dessert offering, were pleasantly unique, with a soft center and plenty of citrus from the orange zest. I also liked how well the bittersweet chocolate sauce evened out the sugary fried dough. Together, they made a summery drink-dessert pairing that I’d go for again – although with so many interesting options, I doubt I could commit to the same cocktail twice.

The details: Masa Azul, 2901 W Diversey Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Negroni slushy and pimento toast, Parson’s Chicken & Fish

Negroni slushy with letherbee gin, luxando bitter, sweet vermouth, and citron
Negroni slushy with letherbee gin, luxardo bitter, sweet vermouth, and citron

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: This novel Negroni slushy has appeared in basically every Chicago summer/cocktail/patio/drinking article since Parson’s Chicken and Fish opened in mid-May, even called “the coolest Negroni in the world.” The fanfare is justified, though: it’s an excellent Negroni in a fun format, avoiding the watery or overly sweet fate that befalls most frozen beverages. With locally made Letherbee gin and citrusy Luxardo bitter, it’s mellow, refreshing, and just bitter enough.

Toast with pimento cheese, charred radishes, and pea shoots
Toast with pimento cheese, charred radishes, and pea shoots

Snack-wise, I was torn between the shrimp and pimento toast, and though I still plan to try the seafood variety next time, I was more than satisfied with pimento. My Midwestern upbringing didn’t involve a lot of pimento cheese, but especially as Southern-influenced cuisine becomes more popular in Chicago, I’ve now tasted several knock-out versions (including Zingerman’s, my favorite to have at home) and am starting to understand its following. At Parson’s, the pimento spread is smooth (no coarse shreds) and ultra-cheesy atop buttery toast. The sourness and acidity from pickle relish and charred radishes beautifully round out each bite, punctuated by the pea shoots. I also appreciated the portion of three moderate slices, enough to share easily.

Of course, I liked the fried chicken, too – though I found it to be best on its own, without any of the housemade sauces – and the mezcal margarita gave the slushy a serious run for its money. Check out more photos below of the food and atmosphere.

Menu and a margarita, another standout cocktail with el buho mescal, torres orange brandy, orange & lime juice, maguey sweet sap, and a sour patch rim
Menu and a margarita, another standout cocktail with el buho mescal, torres orange brandy, orange & lime juice, maguey sweet sap, and a sour patch rim
The interior bar at Parson's, with the negroni slushy machine in the center
The interior bar at Parson’s, with the negroni slushy machine in the center
The namesake fried chicken
The namesake fried chicken
Funnel cake with honey, brown butter, and green peppercorn brittle
Funnel cake with honey, brown butter, and green peppercorn brittle
Striped umbrellas & picnic tables on the spacious patio
Striped umbrellas & picnic tables on the spacious patio (prepare to wait on weekends)

The details: Parson’s Chicken and Fish, 2952 W Armitage Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Southern pizza and rosé, Reno

Southern pizza with
Southern pizza with Edward’s ham, kimchi, spinach, mozzarella, and fried garlic

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: It’s high time I blogged about Reno, where I’ve been a frequent customer since they opened in the neighborhood last November. I could wax poetic about the glory (and daily temptation) of grabbing a wood-fired bagel and a large cup of Stumptown coffee on my way to the train in the morning, but this week marked my first time dining in for dinner. My friend opted for pasta, but I had to skip over that section because there were just too many appealing pizzas. I had to go with the Southern, a Korean-Italian collision with southern ham thrown in. The sour kimchi, salty ham, gooey mozzarella, crispy spinach, and some serious garlic: it all worked, but still didn’t weigh down the blistered thin crust.

Admittedly, I don’t have a lot of experience with rosé, but since it’s ubiquitous in articles about springtime beverages, I’d been on the lookout for an opportunity to try a glass. This particular wine was ultra-refreshing, a blend of merlot and cabernets sauvignon and franc with juicy berry flavors. Rosé is also typically known as a food-friendly wine, and it proved to pair well with the punchy pizza toppings.

2012 rosé
Haut-Sarthes 2012 Rosé (Bordeaux)

The details: Reno, 2607 N Milwaukee Ave, Chicago.

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Lists

List: My 10 favorite places to work remotely in Chicago

Since my job affords me the privilege of working from home one day a week, I’ve made a habit of working from different coffee shops and cafés all over the city – I’m one of those people who’s more focused in that setting, rather than more distracted. My main criteria are good coffee and food options, free WiFi without a time limit (the only exception here is a two-hour timeout at Whole Foods), and reasonably comfortable seating. This list is by no means exhaustive, and in no particular order. I also excluded a few places I love because they’re usually crowded (I’m looking at you, Wormhole and Star Lounge).

KnockBox Café // Humboldt Park

Falling into the “hidden gem” category, KnockBox is a tried-and-true favorite, with friendly staff, easy parking, and a great variety of coffee drinks, sandwiches, and snacks (plus I’m a sucker for applesauce being offered as a side).

Panini with a side of applesauce at Knockbox Cafe
Panini with a side of applesauce at KnockBox Café

Sip Coffee House // West Loop

I love Sip for its array of seating options (upstairs/downstairs, inside/outside) and an extensive, creative drink menu.

Gaslight Coffee Roasters // Logan Square

I had high hopes last summer when I found out that a new coffee shop was opening within walking distance of my apartment, and Gaslight has exceeded expectations, with excellent coffee roasted on-site and a suitably Logan Square-ish aesthetic.

Latte and pain au chocolat in a window seat at Gaslight Coffee Roasters
Latte and pain au chocolat in a window seat at Gaslight Coffee Roasters

Whole Foods // Lincoln Park

Let’s be honest: this gargantuan grocery store is one of my favorite places in the city, period, so I’m always content to assemble a hodge-podge of tastes from a few of the kiosks, then settle in with a laptop in the upstairs river-view seating.

New Wave Coffee // Logan Square

I’ve spent many hours at this convenient Logan Square mainstay, sipping either bottomless Metropolis coffee or a delicious Hail Mary (New Wave’s version of “dirty chai”, or a chai latte with espresso) and sometimes splurging on a spinach and feta croissant, if there are any left.

Oatmeal and Hail Mary (chai latte with espresso) at New Wave Coffee
Oatmeal and Hail Mary at New Wave Coffee

Ipsento // Bucktown

I love holing up in Ipsento’s cozy back room, and can’t get enough of the shop’s namesake signature latte with coconut milk, honey, and cayenne.

A cozy, brightly colored corner at Ipsento
A cozy, brightly colored corner at Ipsento

Dolce Casa Cafe // Ravenswood

I was immediately charmed by Dolce Casa’s cheerful space, energetic service, and killer breakfast items.

Robust Coffee Lounge // River North

A pleasant discovery in the River North area, I especially appreciate Robust’s relaxed vibe and its impressive selection of local sweets (Brown Sugar Bakery, Dat Donut, Lucia’s Homemade Aljafores, and more).

Iced latte and bagel sandwich on the patio at Robust Coffee Lounge
Iced latte and bagel sandwich on the patio at Robust Coffee Lounge

Heritage Bicycles General Store // Lakeview

This bicycle and coffee shop hybrid has proven to be a pleasant, laid-back working environment with lots of natural light; pourover coffee and Glazed and Infused donuts don’t hurt either.

Eva’s Cafe // Old Town

Eva’s Cafe is another gem within its neighborhood, refreshingly spacious with good coffee and lots of interesting seating areas (think wrought-iron furniture and a fireplace).

Globe and other pieces along the counter at Eva's Cafe
Globe and other pieces along the counter at Eva’s Cafe

Where are your favorite places to work remotely? I’m always open to new suggestions!