For the third year in a row, I’m using each day in December to celebrate the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2014, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at year-end Best Bites from 2012 and 2013.
Elotes with mayo, butter, cheese, and chili powder
Why it’s another 2014 Best Bite: The Logan Square Farmers Market has been one of my most cherished Sunday traditions for as long as I’ve lived in the neighborhood. All the way at the eastern edge of the outdoor market lies Cherubs, a purveyor of tacos, horchata, and these elotes. It was an indulgence, for sure – the ear of corn was brushed with both mayo and butter before receiving its coating of chili powder and cheese – but such a spicy, creamy, and delicious way to eat corn.
For the third year in a row, I’m using each day in December to celebrate the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2014, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at year-end Best Bites from 2012 and 2013.
Savory almond crepe with jarlsberg cheese, sweet potato, lamb pancetta, grilled chicories, anchovy vinaigrette, and sunny side egg
Why it’s another 2014 Best Bite: It shouldn’t be too surprising that a dish from Lula has landed on this list for the third year in a row, since I go there more often than nearly any other restaurant. This brunch special stood out for both its striking appearance and its comforting flavors. Crispy lamb, sweet potato, and cheese were ensconced by the fluffiest of crepes, with greens and walnuts to balance out the richness of the egg on top.
Spicy roasted garlic miso ramen with egg noodles, rich pork broth, berkshire pork belly, soft-boiled egg, marinated bamboo shoot, bean sprouts, sesame, scallion, roasted garlic, garlic chips, chili pepper, and sesame oil (plus a background pig to match the ramen!)
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: This steaming bowl of ramen hit me with two primary flavors: lots of roasted garlic and lots of heat – both very welcome on a chilly evening. Together with two forms of pork (broth and belly) and miso, each bite was rich and savory. The very best bites included all the other textures, too: a bit of the beautifully soft-boiled egg, crunch from scallions and garlic chips, and chew from the bamboo shoots and the egg noodles themselves. The garlicky broth was luxurious enough to slurp on its own, a testament to the care that Wasabi’s chefs put into a complicated cooking process that takes 45 hours total. Wasabi also offers sushi and Japanese small plates, but when the ramen is this exceptional, it’s tough to order anything else.
The details:Wasabi, 2115 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
Peanut butter and banana-stuffed Hong Kong-style French toast with jam and fruit; pan-fried radish cake with stir-fried seasonal vegetables; minchi hash with stir-fried minced pork and beef, sunny egg, coconut rice, and bok choi
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Since opening in Logan Square just under two years ago, Fat Rice has quickly become a darling of the Chicago restaurant scene and has even earned national attention for its Macanese cuisine, a distinctive fusion of Chinese and Portuguese flavors. Even though I’ve blogged about Fat Rice before, the Cha Gordo (or “Fat Tea,” a spin on Macanese high tea) brunch was a unique enough experience to merit its own post. The dim sum menu made it easy to try more dishes than at an average morning meal, so we ordered a little of everything.
I have to begin with the Hong Kong–style French toast, a decadent study in contrasts. The peanut butter-banana filling and peach-berry compote were comforting and familiar, but otherwise, the toast was out of the box: it was deep-fried in a batter spiked with lime zest, then scattered with slivers of young coconut and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk. It was what might result if a school lunch PB&J went on an exotic vacation. I couldn’t get enough. The minchi hash, reminiscent of Korean bibimbap, and the unexpectedly smoky pan-fried radish cake were both excellent as well.
Sweet and sour stuffed eggplant with shrimp and pork
This brunch also strengthened my conviction that the eggplant at Fat Rice is just better than the eggplant anywhere else. The texture of each slice was soft without being mushy, soaking up an irresistible sweet-and-sour sauce, and the shrimp and pork stuffing added a richer dimension that felt very brunch-appropriate. We also wanted to make sure to partake in the “tea” portion of the Cha Gordo, so we shared a boozy carafe of black tea mixed with spiced whiskey, sweet vermouth, tea shrub, and mint. While I’d gladly drink it year-round, it really set the mood for a laid-back feast amidst flowers, string lights, and fresh air on the charming side patio.
Carafe of boozy bourbon tea with spiced whiskey, sweet vermouth, black tea, tea shrub, and mint
The details:Fat Rice, 2957 W. Diversey Ave., Chicago.
Falafel & roommates with fried cauliflower, eggplant, potato, and zucchini, with garlic, jalapeño, and lemon hot sauce
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Masada opened this month in Logan Square after 10 years in the works, and its enormous interior is most assuredly a sight to behold. Ornate, colorful lighting and flat-screen aquariums bedeck the main level’s seating area; follow technicolor stairs down to the basement, and you’ll find a full-fledged dance floor. Our table overlooked the downstairs patio, but there are also multiple upper-level patio areas, all sporting festive lighting and wrought-iron fixtures. The food itself was refreshingly simple, considering its elaborate surroundings.
I knew I’d enjoy the falafel, as its sister restaurant, Sultan’s Market, makes some of my favorite in the city, but what stood out in this wrap were its accompaniments, or “roommates,” as they were playfully described on the menu. The potatoes, eggplant, cauliflower, and zucchini were a satisfying mix, especially with doses of garlicky hot sauce and creamy tahini sauce.
Koshari with brown lentils, rice, pasta, chickpeas, tomato sauce, and caramelized onions, garnished with garlic, jalapeño, and lemon hot sauce
Koshari is a classic Egyptian dish that I hadn’t heard of before – one that “built the pyramids,” according to our server. I most appreciated all the textural contrast here: lentils, chickpeas, rice, caramelized onions, tomato sauce, and even macaroni noodles, which made me think of it as an ancient predecessor to chili mac. It was a simple, hearty dish that was easy to envision as being a home-cooking staple. The pita with olive oil and za’atar (a spice blend that I highly recommend using at home) were great to snack on before our meal arrived, and the bold hue and floral aroma of the Moroccan mojito were a perfect match for the patio’s upbeat garden vibe.
Moroccan mojito with rum, hibiscus, and mint
The details:Masada, 2205 N. California Ave., Chicago.
Once you order this off-menu beverage that combines espresso and milk in perfect balance, you’ll never go back (and, to be honest, this is also what you order if you want to impress a barista!). It was perfect to sip slowly as I lost myself in a great book.
Cortado on the sidewalk patio, accompanied by my latest read, “The Goldfinch”
Dark Matter Chocolate City draft iced coffee, Longman & Eagle
While there’s no actual chocolate in this draft iced coffee, the cocoa notes and bold, fruity complexity make it the dreamiest of morning beverages, especially outside on the patio with a splash of cream.
Dark Matter Chocolate City draft iced coffee (on the patio, of course!)
Gumbo with Gunthorp chicken, house andouille, and potato salad
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Analogue, a fairly new addition to my neighborhood, has introduced me to a combination I never knew my life was missing until now: craft cocktails paired with authentic Cajun food (in other words, just one more reason to love living in Logan Square). On the cocktail side, the Best in Show had the citrusy tang and foamy egg white crown of a Pisco sour, plus a heavy dose of cinnamon. It had sweetness and complexity that made it exciting to drink – although that probably was to be expected from the Violet Hour veterans who are behind the drinks here. Meanwhile, the standout dish was a Cajun classic: gumbo with tender chicken, house-made andouille sausage, okra, and a small dollop of potato salad, which I later learned was the result of German influence on Creole traditions. The moderate heat and blackened, smoky base notes in the meaty broth were what really kept me going back for more spoonfuls.
Best in Show cocktail with Encanto Grand & Noble Pisco, cream sherry, lime, cinnamon syrup, and egg white
The details:Analogue, 2523 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.
Hawaiian pizza with garlic oil, house blend of mozzarella and provolone, homemade ham, bacon, and grilled pineapple with balsamic reduction
Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: Boiler Room is another one of my neighborhood go-tos because it’s mastered the bar trifecta: atmosphere, drinks, and pizza. When I’m not in the mood for its renowned PB&J special (a PBR, a shot of Jameson, and a slice of pizza for $7.50), I usually opt to share a full pie, and the Hawaiian was one of my favorites so far. It was meaty with both ham and bacon, and had plenty of gooey cheese and garlic, but the best part was the balsamic reduction drizzled over charred pineapple for the ultimate sweet-and-sour effect. And if you go, don’t miss the El-themed restroom – just trust me.
The details: Boiler Room, 2210 N. California Ave., Chicago.
Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.
Black Cat milkshake with with two shots of Black Cat Classic espresso and Jeni’s sweet cream ice cream
Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: When Intelligentsia debuted milkshakes at the Logan Square location, it felt the need to explain itself on its website: “While milkshakes may not seem the most progressive coffee beverage, they are undoubtedly delicious.” Yeah, that checks out. Two shots of classic Black Cat espresso and sweet cream ice cream from much-adored Jeni’s combined to form a buzzy, frothy, pure-flavored milkshake. While this particular shake perked up my August afternoon with every chilly sip, I’d argue that shakes are never out of season — especially the caffeinated variety.
Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.
Brioche french toast with foie gras frosting, pistachio custard, macerated strawberry, and candied granola
Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: Much like Lula yesterday, Longman & Eagle is another neighborhood favorite that inevitably made the list again this year. Any brioche french toast that involves strawberry, pistachio, and granola is already a winner, but there was one last ingredient that took it to a totally new place: foie gras frosting (yes, you read that right). Adding subtle balance to an otherwise sweet dish, this silky, umami-boosted buttercream would have won over even foie-squeamish eaters.
