clark street – Hillary Weller

Big Jones Dinner

Alligator and andouille sauce piquant, Big Jones

Alligator and andouille sauce piquant with Louisiana gator tail and house-made andouille simmered in a piquant red sauce, served with popcorn rice

Best Bite: I went into this Louisiana Mardi Gras–themed menu knowing I wanted to order the gator tail as my main course, and it exceeded my expectations. Tender pieces of alligator and andouille sausage swam in a fiery red sauce, right at that heat level where you’re acutely aware of the intensity of the spices, but aren’t slowed down or overwhelmed by them.

Skillet cheddar cornbread with Hook’s cheddar, jalapeños, and scallions

Other notes: The second-course skillets of golden cornbread were a hit with the whole group, irresistibly augmented by cheddar, scallions, jalapeños, and plenty of butter. It was fun to have a classic Mardi Gras king cake as dessert, too – colored sugar and all. Our party of seven was seated at a table right in the window, which made it feel like an extra-special feast.

The details: Big Jones, 5347 N. Clark St., Chicago.

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This week’s Best Bite: French onion soup and chicken curry crepe, La Creperie

Traditional french onion soup, with bread and melted emmenthal cheese — Traditional French onion soup, with bread and melted emmenthal cheese

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Sadly, my first visit to La Creperie was in its final weeks of operation – the classic Lakeview café is closing its doors after 41 years in business. With added urgency, my friend chose to celebrate his birthday over brunch here this past weekend, and I was happy to oblige. I was immediately charmed by the back patio, with red-checkered tablecloths and quaint china atop tables that were nestled between the trees. And while it’s a little rare to order an appetizer with brunch, we’d heard this French onion soup was not to be missed – and am I ever glad we didn’t miss it! The broiled lid of emmenthal cheese was everything you’d want this classic soup’s topper to be: mild and gooey inside, with crispier bits to tear off around the edges of the crock. The deep onion flavor shone through in the broth, accented by thyme and not overly salty.

Crepe filled with chicken in Madras curry with chutney & rice

Although I barely had enough room left, I also enjoyed my variety of the café’s namesake dish. The crepe itself was thin, but hearty enough to hold up to the savory fillings. The creamy madras curry sauce was delicious with the tender vegetables and chicken, and though the rice seemed like more of an afterthought, the chutney added a nice sweetness – so much so that I piled on a little more of my own gingery Major Grey when I finished off my crepe leftovers back at home.

The café's sign in its final weeks — The café’s sign in its final weeks

The details: La Creperie, 2845 N Clark St., Chicago (closing, effective late August 2013).