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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Soft-scrambled eggs, salmon tartare & grilled mushrooms, Kinmont

Soft-scrambled eggs, Kinmont
Soft-scrambled eggs with smoked Lake Superior whitefish, salmon roe, chives, and country bread

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was excited to try Kinmont, a new seafood place that recently opened just blocks from my office, and certainly support the restaurant’s commitment to serving entirely sustainable fish. I’d already heard great things about the soft-scrambled eggs; and sure enough, the eggs’ texture was creamy and light without being runny, perfect for spreading on the thick country bread. The eggs were also studded with both smoked whitefish and salmon roe, a double-punch of seafood flavor. Another favorite, the Skuna bay salmon tartare, covered a more Nordic flavor profile: fresh fish intermingled with mustard, cornichon, egg, and lots of dill. The tartare was served with sturdy, herbaceous flatbread that had great crunch.

Salmon tartare, Kinmont
Skuna Bay salmon tartare with cornichons, shallots, mustard, and crisp bread

We also wanted to try one of the vegetable sides, and were immediately intrigued by the pairing of grilled mushrooms and smoked ricotta. The char from the grill and the smoky, rich ricotta played off each other to give the woody mushrooms surprising depth, and a generous shower of lemon zest added brightness.

Mushrooms, Kinmont
Grilled mushrooms with smoked buttermilk ricotta and lemon

The details: Kinmont, 419 W. Superior, Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Belly dog with togarashi fries, Belly Shack

Belly dog with togarashi fries, Belly Shack
Belly dog, an all-beef hot dog with with egg noodles, pickled green papaya, and togarashi-spiced fries

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was a little shocked to realize that I haven’t blogged about Belly Shack yet, since it’s one of my very favorite places to eat and a go-to recommendation for pretty much anyone. It’s a casual, inexpensive BYOB spot right underneath the Blue Line with a menu that’s the perfect fusion of Latin and Asian (Chef Bill Kim is Korean, and wife and co-owner Yvonne is Puerto Rican). I’m also going to admit that even in such a hot dog-obsessed town, this off-the-wall Belly dog might be tops in my book. Piled high with egg noodles, fried shallots, pickled papaya, and a smear of curry mayo, the dog is a messy affair, even despite its sturdy roll. But the spicy, creamy, crunchy tangle of flavors is well worth it. And I don’t know what it is about the togarashi seasoning that’s both on the fries and in the extra curry mayo dipping sauce, but it is absolutely addictive. It’s salty and funky, and works wonderfully with heaps of lime zest to take the crispy fries to a whole new level.

The details: Belly Shack, 1912 N. Western Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Peanut butter & jelly brioche sticky bun, A10

Peanut butter and jelly brioche sticky bun
Peanut butter and jelly brioche sticky bun

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: We technically visited Hyde Park newcomer A10 during Restaurant Week, but since we didn’t go for the three-course menu, I wanted to save this for a separate (albeit delayed) post. This pastry capped off a rich, seafood-heavy Sunday brunch. Besides its sheer beauty in the afternoon sun, the sticky bun was a knockout in flavor, its swirl of peanut butter brioche dough covered in bright elderberry syrup and powdered sugar. The dough was on the lighter, crispier side, which made it feel even more like a high-end peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich. It’s safe to say that whenever I return to A10 for dinner, I’ll definitely be ordering dessert.

The details: A10, 1462 E. 53rd St., Chicago.

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Restaurant Week

Recap: Chicago Restaurant Week 2014

This marks the end of my second year of Chicago Restaurant Week coverage. I’m happy to report that I enjoyed eight meals between January 24 and February 6 that were part of the annual dining promotion – and yes, that’s one more than in 2013, because that’s how I am.

Here are all of this year’s posts, listed below in chronological order.

Beef stroganoff with mustard spaetzle, mushroom, and peppered cream Graham Elliot Bistro
Spicy Moroccan carrot salad with Greek yogurt, ginger, lime, and grilled scallions, inspired by Alice Waters Ada Street
Gooey butter cake and The Travel Agent dessert cocktail, with CH vanilla-infused rum, limoncello, lemon, and peychaud’s bitters CH Distillery
Braised pork shank “off the bone” and carnaroli risotto with squash, caramelized onions, and wilted kale Naha
Bread basket with assorted breads, house pickles, honey butter, and tomato-herb oil Homestead on the Roof
Red apple orchard sangria (shiraz, brandy, apple juice, and cinnamon sticks) at our fireside table ZED451
Prime beef meatballs RPM Italian
Steak frites with sauce au poivre Mon Ami Gabi

For even more Restaurant Week, view last year’s recap, or browse all coverage.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Mon Ami Gabi

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Mon Ami Gabi

Steak frites with sauce au poivre
Steak frites with sauce au poivre

Best Bite: When it comes to French bistro fare, steak frites is about as classic as it gets, and this version was transportive. The well-seasoned steak was a tender medium-rare, the frites were especially crispy, and the peppery sauce was rich with just enough creaminess. The mini dessert trio was just as well executed, though; and I was certainly relieved to not have to choose between mousse and crème brûlée. See full menu.

Dessert trio with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée, and meyer lemon sorbet
Dessert trio with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée, and meyer lemon sorbet

Other notes: The oven-roasted escargots were an indulgent start to the meal, but perhaps even better was dipping pieces of our still-hot baguette into the leftover garlic-herb butter. I couldn’t let those remnants go to waste! The cozy bistro environs were perfect for discussing exciting upcoming travel plans with two girlfriends, especially over a food-friendly Côtes du Rhône red.

Piping hot baguette to start the meal
Piping hot baguette to start the meal

The details: Mon Ami Gabi, 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Homestead on the Roof

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Homestead on the Roof

Bread basket with assorted breads, house pickles, honey butter, and tomato-herb oil
Bread basket with assorted breads, house pickles, honey butter, and tomato-herb oil

Best Bite: As soon as the bread basket arrived, with jars of honey butter and tomato-herb oil ready to slather on cornbread and laminated brioche, I knew it was going to be an exceptionally thoughtful meal. Fresh, seasonal ingredients came together beautifully in all three courses, but dessert is the one I’m still thinking about most. The dish was a tantalizing combination of rolled dark chocolate cremeux, tiny crystallized thyme leaves, bourbon-scented powder, a slick of toasted marshmallow, and earthy beets two ways: in thin vanilla slices and as creamy sorbet. I loved everything about it – which I never thought I would say about a beet dessert. See full menu.

Beet dessert with chocolate cremeux, crystalized thyme, and beet buttermilk sherbet
Beet dessert with chocolate cremeux, crystalized thyme, and beet buttermilk sherbet

Other notes: The pan-fried, maple-glazed sweetbreads entree packed richness into a light portion. I’m proud to report that two of my girlfriends were feeling adventurous and ordered the sweetbreads as well – both were first-timers, and both approved! I also loved the whimsical tuft of cotton candy on top of the chestnut dessert, among other creative garnishes. The indoor space had a rustic feel, with reclaimed windows as creative dividers, but I’m looking forward to going back in the spring for the full outdoor rooftop experience.

Maple-glazed sweetbreads with pickled pears and salsify puree
Maple-glazed sweetbreads with pickled pears and salsify puree

The details: Homestead on the Roof, 1924 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Naha

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Naha

Braised pork shank "off the bone" and carnaroli risotto with squash, caramelized onions, and wilted kale
Braised pork shank “off the bone” and carnaroli risotto with squash, caramelized onions, and wilted kale

Best Bite: Naha is a Chicago institution for locally sourced, seasonal cuisine, and I was really looking forward to finally dining there. Uncharacteristically, I ordered pork for both my first and second courses, but I certainly did not regret it. I still can’t decide which impossibly tender preparation I preferred: the sweeter belly with apples and fennel atop pastry crust with a swipe of sweet quince marmalade; or the rich braised shank, with flawless risotto and the best crispy kale I’ve ever had. See full menu.

"Tarte tatin" of winter harvested apples and pork belly with quince marmalade and shaved fennel
“Tarte tatin” of winter harvested apples and pork belly with quince marmalade and shaved fennel

Other notes: I was charmed by the cookie platter, although I’m glad my dining companions also shared their chocolate cheesecake and cheese plate with me – the latter’s selection of three cheeses were unanimously proclaimed to be “stupid good.” Service was appropriately attentive for the elegant atmosphere. My wine-savvy friend selected an outstanding bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir to pair with our meal, but I doubt you could go wrong with anything from the luxe wine list.

Cookie assortment
Cookie assortment

The details: Naha, 500 N. Clark St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Foie gras, Acadia

Miso-cured and grilled foie gras with pineapple, chocolate, almond cookie, unagi, and malt
Miso-cured and grilled foie gras with pineapple, chocolate, almond cookie, unagi, and malt

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Pardon my gushing, but this was one of those dishes that only comes along every once in a while, the kind where you sigh over every bite and can’t even put together the words to describe how good it is because you’re in such a state of bliss. I love foie gras, and Acadia’s preparation has set a new standard for me. The thick slab of miso-cured foie rivaled the size of my iPhone, and captured the flame-licked meatiness of a grilled steak – that is, if a steak melted into richness and practically disappeared on your tongue. Compressed pineapple underneath hit a bright, juicy note, and the accompanying smoked banana puree, almond cookie crumbles, and unagi sauce all came together in beautiful, if unlikely, harmony. And the chocolate nest was served at the perfect temperature: each curlicue kept its shape on the plate, but softened into a coating as soon as it hit the warm foie. Executive chef Ryan McCaskey clearly has a deft hand in showcasing sweet flavors while still maintaining balance. This foie gras was the second course of a spectacular dining experience that I would recommend for any special occasion.

The details: Acadia, 1639 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Musclemen ramen, Oiistar

Musclemen ramen with mussels, onion, chili pepper, scallion, and bonito miso
Musclemen ramen with mussels, onion, chili pepper, scallion, and bonito miso

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: When a ramen craving struck me on a snowy afternoon, I popped over to Oiistar, a relatively new Wicker Park spot I’d been eyeing. Bypassing all the tempting varieties of bao, and even the avocado tempura – next time! – I zeroed in on a mussel-centric ramen. Besides at least a dozen plump mussels, the giant bowl also contained an umami-rich seafood broth with chewy noodles, two kinds of onion, and tons of garlic. Moderately spicy chiles also upped the soup’s warmth factor. Happily rotating between slurps of noodles, mussels, and broth, I settled in with a book and soaked up the sounds of the restaurant’s catchy R&B playlist.

The details: Oiistar, 1385 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake, baked egg & more from brunch, Avec

Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake with apple-rosemary compote and whipped cream
Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake with apple-rosemary compote and whipped cream

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: After a decade of being dinner-only, Avec launched brunch service last summer – an announcement that made the Chicago food world collectively squeal with delight. While I’ve already blogged about Avec’s legendary stuffed dates, which we ordered almost reflexively, the other stellar brunch plates merited a post of their own. The day’s special was the wood-fired pancake, a velvety stunner cooked in a cast-iron pan and topped with fragrant apple-rosemary compote and mounds of whipped cream. Its Dutch Baby–style texture was unbelievable. Meanwhile, the baked egg dish showed off Avec’s Mediterranean leanings. Its sauce was layered with surprising flavors: chickpeas, roasted peppers of all kinds, and salty feta, all begging to be sopped up with the bread on the side.

Baked egg with roasted peppers, chickpeas, guanciale, feta, and breadcrumbs
Baked egg with roasted peppers, chickpeas, guanciale, feta, and breadcrumbs
Marinated butcher's steak with squash polenta, charred radicchio, pepita pesto, and a fried egg
Marinated butcher’s steak with squash polenta, charred radicchio, pepita pesto, and a fried egg

Another favorite was the butcher’s steak, probably the most beautiful steak-and-eggs in history. The fried egg was perfect, and the steak, ultra-tender from the marinade, shone even brighter with bold accompaniments of charred radicchio, squash polenta, pesto, parsley, and crunchy pepitas. As hard as it was to see this meal come to a close, the indulgence of the stuffed dates at the beginning was evenly matched by the petite nutter butter squares at its conclusion. Don’t miss these: the peanut butter-chocolate base, subtle feuilletine crunch, smooth ganache, and a sprinkling of sea salt made it the ultimate last bite.

Nutter butters as a final bite
Nutter butters as a final bite

The details: Avec, 615 W Randolph St., Chicago.

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