Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: A weekend in Galway

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

Smoked salmon salad with baked beans at Ard Bia
Burren smoked salmon salad with organic quinoa, soft boiled market egg, and pistachio and sumac dressing, plus side of Turkish baked beans, at Ard Bia

I recently took the train to Galway for the weekend, excited to see what Ireland’s western coast was like. The standout meal for me was a late brunch at Ard Bia, housed in a cozy stone building just past the Spanish Arch. The salad combined loads of local smoked salmon, hearty quinoa, a soft-boiled egg (which kept it in the brunch zone), seeds, greens, and a nutty dressing into what was by far the best salad I’ve eaten this year. The locally sourced ingredients, eclectic flavor combinations, and laidback-yet-stylish vibe reminded me a lot of Lula Café in Chicago, which made me feel even more at home.

I kept with the same theme during dinner at Kirwan’s, a tucked-away seafood bar that had come highly recommended. The cold seafood platter packed major variety: smoked mackerel, head-on prawns, shrimp in Marie Rose sauce, and a salty oyster, all atop a thick blanket of smoked salmon. It was straightforward enough that I could truly appreciate the freshness and character of each component.

Cold seafood platter, Kirwan's
Seafood platter with smoked salmon, fresh prawn, smoked mackerel, rock oyster, and brandy-scented Marie Rose sauce at Kirwan’s
Cheese plate, Sheridans Cheesemongers
Plate of five cheeses, olives, crackers, and quince at Sheridans Cheesemongers

I was able to enjoy a sampler plate of five fine cheeses at Sheridans Cheesemongers, whose products I’d seen throughout Ireland. I also got into the holiday spirit at two locations of the Galway Christmas Market, one near the Spanish Arch and the other on Eyre Square. At one decked-out tent, I sipped my first mulled wine of the season; at the other, I went for a warm blend of Jägermeister, mulling spices, honey, and lemon. And of course, I tucked into a pint of Guinness, the only appropriate beverage for listening to some Irish trad music at Latin Quarter pub Tig Coili.

Mulled wine in a festive tent at the Galway Christmas Market
Mulled wine in a festive tent at the Galway Christmas Market
Guinness at Tig Coili
Pint of Guinness while listening to live trad music at Tig Coili

Because I was staying in Salthill, a coastal area just outside Galway City, I kept to that area for breakfast. One morning, that meant walking down the Salthill Promenade for the Fisherman’s mini version of an Irish fry-up breakfast, which included especially good black pudding and sunny views of Galway Bay. Another morning, I grabbed takeaway pastries from Gourmet Tart Co, who especially excelled at chocolate croissants and fruit-almond tarts.

Mini fry breakfast, The Fisherman
Mini fry (full Irish breakfast) in the sunshine at Fisherman along the Salthill Promenade
Pastries at Gourmet Tart Co.
Chocolate croissants and other assorted pastries at Gourmet Tart Co. in Salthill

The details: Gourmet Tart Co., Salthill Upper; Galway Christmas Market, Spanish Arch; Ard Bia at Nimmos, Spanish Arch, Long Walk; Tig Cóilí, Mainguard Street; Sheridans Cheesemongers, Church Yard Street; The Seafood Bar @ Kirwan’s, Kirwan’s Lane; Fisherman, Salthill; all Galway, Ireland.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: artisanal cheese board and Oktoberfest beer, Revolution Brewing

Revolution's German-style Oktoberfest beer
Revolution’s German-style Oktoberfest beer

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Of all the great things ushered in by this new season, autumnal beers are near the top of the list. And while I’m always excited to try whatever new offerings are on tap at Revolution’s Logan Square brewpub, this year’s Oktoberfest has proven to be one of my all-time favorites. It had lots of caramel and spice notes without being too heavy, and would pair well with pretty much any fall food. I typically skip over cheese plates when reading a menu, but this thoughtful board was a good reminder to stop overlooking them. The three cheese selections on a recent weeknight were each excellent, especially the smoked gorgonzola (I had to restrain myself from devouring all the pieces on the board). The spiced pears, pickled vegetables, and candied peanuts all offered pleasant contrasts without clashing with any of the cheeses. Between that and the other dishes we ordered, Revolution is continuing to prove that it takes its food just as seriously as its beer.

Revolution Brewing artisanal cheeses
Wild rice gouda, aged cheddar, and smoked gorgonzola cheeses, with pear compote, pickled vegetables, candied peanut, and spent grain crackers

The details: Revolution Brewing, 2323 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Portland’s Beast and Toro Bravo

This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.

A quote on the chalkboard wall at Beast
A quote on the chalkboard wall at Beast – words to live by!

Brunch at Beast

As I said on Twitter, I would consider this the best overall brunch experience of my life. I knew going into it that a four-course brunch (yes, that’s four courses) from one of my favorite chefs on Top Chef Masters would be nothing to scoff at, but there was so much else that came together to make the atmosphere extra-special. Both brunch and dinner at Beast are completely seasonal and change weekly based on that week’s market, so the prix fixe menu that’s posted outside the door is your first glimpse of what you’ll be eating, with no substitutions allowed. While I realize it isn’t for everyone, it probably goes without saying that I am always excited to eat this way. Although Chef Naomi was in Miami for the weekend, her staff treated us 24 or so diners with the utmost care, ushering us in right at 10 a.m. and meticulously plating each course in the open kitchen that comprised nearly half of the intimate space. In the other half, two large communal tables were filled by a collection of food-lovers from all over the country. Speaking of those fellow diners…in a fun coincidence, the party next to us was a couple from the LA-area and their two daughters, both of whom happened to be Northwestern alums, and the older of whom was even in my graduating class! Once we started to recognize each other and talk through our mutual friends and connections (with a little help from Facebook), it became even more startling that two people with so much in common just happened to be seated together at brunch all the way in Portland. Beyond that, it was just a delight to be around so many other foodies – including this one, with an extensive knowledge of food in most major cities and a great Twitter presence – and sharing the experience with people who wanted to soak it in the same way, iPhone-photo-snapping and all (no doubt this restaurant has inspired its own Portlandia sketches).

Of course, the food itself was equally excellent. To begin, the bacon-topped claufoutis was airy with lovely apple flavor – I tried to savor each spoonful, but I’ll admit that it went quickly. The hash combined so many of my favorite savory brunch ingredients that I felt as if they’d read my mind: duck, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, broccoli, mushrooms…a mixture that was rich, balanced, and all-out delicious. Next up was a plate of three outstanding (and very different) cheeses that were paired with greens so flavorful and nicely dressed that we could barely stop talking about them. And finally, I now dream of wrapping up every brunch with a smooth, ultra-dark chocolate stout cake cloaked in more chocolate and topped with gold-leaf-flecked chantilly cream. If this is what Beast’s morning meal is like, I’d love to go back someday for a six-course dinner, and make a few more new food-fanatic friends.

Northern Spy Apple clafoutis with soft whipped cream and maple-glazed bacon
Northern Spy Apple clafoutis with soft whipped cream and maple-glazed bacon
Beast hash with duck confit, heirloom broccoli, maitake mushrooms, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, poached farm egg, and hollandaise
Beast hash with duck confit, heirloom broccoli, maitake mushrooms, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, poached farm egg, and hollandaise
Selection of Steve's cheeses (cow, goat, sheep) with Groundworks organic greens and citrus vinaigrette
Selection of Steve’s cheeses (cow, goat, sheep) with Groundworks organic greens and citrus vinaigrette
Dark chocolate stout cake with crème chantilly
Dark chocolate stout cake with crème chantilly

The details: Beast, 5425 NE 30th Ave.

Dinner at Toro Bravo

Toro Bravo draws crowds for its imaginative tapas, so we had to see what the hype was about. We got there right as the restaurant opened for dinner and claimed a seat at the kitchen counter, which was a fun way to see how some of our food came together and listen to the expedite process and general flow of the kitchen. I was genuinely impressed by most of our dishes, and understood why this place had developed a strong following. The boquerones, for example, were treated as exactly the salty delicacy they should be, served atop piperade with such depth that it felt like it had to have been simmering on a grandmother’s stove all day. I was also a little obsessed with the baked polenta, which was basically the best qualities of a cheesesteak and creamy grits rolled together into one. Great cocktails and attentive service as well.

Octopus a la plancha
Octopus a la plancha
Radicchio salad with green olive toast and manchego vinaigrette
Radicchio salad with green olive toast and manchego vinaigrette
Boquerones with grilled bread and piperade
Boquerones with grilled bread and piperade
Baked polenta with roast beef, peppers, and onions
Baked polenta with roast beef, peppers, and onions

The details: Toro Bravo, 120 NE Russell St.