Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Portland’s Pok Pok and Grüner

This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.

We made a bit of a mess...
We made a bit of a mess…

Late lunch at Pok Pok

When I first decided to go to Portland, Pok Pok was the restaurant that I immediately knew I’d visit. Pok Pok (a Thai slang term for a mortar and pestle) is helmed by Andy Ricker, who’s well-known in the restaurant world as an American chef who became obsessed with Thai cuisine and has stayed fiercely committed to authentically reproducing its bold, vibrant flavors in his restaurants. Pok Pok doesn’t take reservations and is known for long wait times, so we chose to go for late lunch (served 2:30–5 p.m.) to avoid the biggest crowds. Before we knew it, every inch of our cozy corner table was filled with metal dishes and serving bowls. Ranging from deliciously sticky chicken wings and succulent game hen to cool green papaya salad and curry soup with punchy garnishes, every dish struck the sour-sweet-salty-spicy balance that’s the hallmark of Thai cuisine. And the ice cream sandwich – coconut-jackfruit ice cream, chocolate, and condensed milk on a glorified hot dog bun – was a whimsical way to end the meal.

Condiments on the table
Condiments on the table
Drink list next to the bar, complete with Pok Pok's wide selection of drinking vinegars
Drink list next to the bar, complete with Pok Pok’s wide selection of drinking vinegars
Vietnamese fish sauce wings
Vietnamese fish sauce wings
Pok Pok Special, with half a roasted game hen, green papaya salad, and dipping sauces
Pok Pok Special, with half a roasted game hen, green papaya salad, and dipping sauces
Sticky rice inside a basket
Sticky rice inside a basket
Khao Soi mild curry noodle soup with tofu, garnished with pickled mustard greens, shallots, cilantro, and chili paste
Khao Soi mild curry noodle soup with tofu, garnished with pickled mustard greens, shallots, cilantro, and chili paste
Coconut ice cream sandwich on a sweet bun with peanuts, sticky rice, condensed milk, and chocolate syrup
Coconut ice cream sandwich on a sweet bun with peanuts, sticky rice, condensed milk, and chocolate syrup

The details: Pok Pok, 3226 SE Division St.

Dinner at Grüner

Grüner, on the other hand, was a somewhat unlikelier dining destination. After coming across some excellent reviews and deciding that refined Alpine cuisine might be a fun direction to take, I made a late dinner reservation. It turned out to be an exquisite meal, with the flavors of German food that were so familiar, but presented here in an exceedingly clean and artful way. The gorgeous beet-pickled deviled eggs ranked among the best I’ve ever tasted, and we both couldn’t get over how the rabbit boudin blanc and hint of mustard simply melted into apples that were sautéed to exactly the right chew. Each component of both the jägerschnitzel entree and the walnut tart dessert married the heartiness of the Old World with the thoughtful, seasonal elegance of a cutting-edge restaurant in Portland. I also was introduced to another favorite local beer, Occidental Brewing’s Dunkelweizen, which made a great pairing.

Pretzel roll, bread, and butter
Pretzel roll, bread, and butter
Beet-pickled deviled eggs
Beet-pickled deviled eggs
Polenta croquettes stuffed with raclette cheese
Polenta croquettes stuffed with raclette cheese
Rabbit boudin blanc with sautéed granny smith apples and dijon mustard
Rabbit boudin blanc with sautéed granny smith apples and dijon mustard
Jägerschnitzel with sauteed veal cutlets, hen of the woods & hedgehog mushroom sauce, mustard spätzle, and spiced red cabbage
Jägerschnitzel with sauteed veal cutlets, hen of the woods & hedgehog mushroom sauce, mustard spätzle, and spiced red cabbage
Walnut tart with sauce bijou, bärenjäger honey syrup, and goat cheese ice cream
Walnut tart with sauce bijou, bärenjäger honey syrup, and goat cheese ice cream

The details: Grüner, 527 SW 12th Ave.

Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Portland beer, wine, and cocktails

This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.

Cascade's Oblique B/W Coffee Stout, brewed with Oblique Coffee Roasters' Landauer blend
Cascade’s Oblique B/W Coffee Stout, brewed with Oblique Coffee Roasters’ Landauer blend

Consider this my official round-up of PDX libations. Before going any further, I have to tell you about the beer above, which was one of the very best, most memorable beers I’ve ever had. It was a special collaboration between Cascade Brewing and Oblique Coffee Roasters that we tried on our last night in Portland, and I loved it so much that it took several minutes for our waitress to finally convince me that taking a growler on the plane wasn’t the best idea (I settled for a bottle of Blueberry, my second favorite). It has the blonde color of a lager, but the body of a stout and the most intense, in-your-face coffee flavor that I’ve ever tasted in a beer. Addictive. Still wish I could have smuggled some back to Chicago…

We did tasting flights at three breweries (Widmer Brothers, Deschutes, and Cascade), and I was impressed by the variety and character of all three. Widmer Brothers is known for their Hefeweizen, and I also was taken by their Oatmeal Stout; at Deschutes, I liked the Black Butte Porter and Chainbreaker White IPA best, and fortunately those two are available here in Chicago. Wine-wise, we visited the SE Wine Collective to sample from four local wine producers who share the space. Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir, which I don’t drink often, so it was fun to explore new territory and settle on the 2010 Division “Un” to take home. Portland offered fantastic fruit-based cocktails as well, including an ultra-fresh, basil-enhanced pineapple mojito at Andina, and my first experience with pungent drinking vinegar in the apple gin rickey at Pok Pok.

Widmer Brothers Brewing flight: Hefeweizen, X-468, Raspberry Russian, Drop Top, X-291, and Oatmeal Stout
Widmer Brothers Brewing flight: Hefeweizen, X-468, Raspberry Russian, Drop Top, X-291, and Oatmeal Stout
Deschutes Brewery flight: Chainbreaker, Black Butte, DB Hefeweizen, Bomb Squad, Old Pilgrim, and Pondhopper
Deschutes Brewery flight: Chainbreaker, Black Butte, DB Hefeweizen, Bomb Squad, Old Pilgrim, and Pondhopper
Cascade Brewing Barrel House flight: Apricot, Noyaux, Blueberry, Raspberry, Bourbonic Plague, and more (not all pictured)
Cascade Brewing Barrel House flight: Apricot, Noyaux, Blueberry, Raspberry, Bourbonic Plague, and more (not all pictured)
Ready for a five-wine tasting at SE Wine Collective
Ready for a five-wine tasting at SE Wine Collective
"Ricardo" (tequila, orange liqueur, ginger puree, pear puree, lime, cider reduction), H5O Bistro inside our hotel
“Ricardo” (tequila, orange liqueur, ginger puree, pear puree, lime, cider reduction), H5O Bistro inside Hotel Fifty, where we stayed
Apple gin rickey (Som apple drinking vinegar, gin, lemon, and soda)
Apple gin rickey (Som apple drinking vinegar, gin, lemon, and soda), Pok Pok
Vela d’Oro (Flor de Caña 4 yr. rum, orange juice reduction, Galliano cream)
Vela d’Oro (Coffee, Flor de Caña 4 yr. rum, orange juice reduction, Galliano cream), Grüner
Pineapple mojito
Pineapple mojito (pineapple amber rum shaken with fresh crushed pineapple, lime juice, basil and cane sugar), Andina

The details: Widmer Brothers Brewery & Gasthaus Pub, 929 N Russell St.; Deschutes Brewery, 210 NW 11th Ave.; Cascade Brewing Barrel House;, 939 SE Belmont St.; SE Wine Collective, 2425 SE 35th Pl.; H50, 50 SW Morrison St.; Pok Pok, 3226 SE Division St.; Grüner, 527 SW 12th Ave.; Andina, 1314 NW Gilsan St.

Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Portland coffee, donuts, and other indulgences

This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.

Latte at Sterling Coffee Roasters
Latte at Sterling Coffee Roasters

As is probably evident, my roommate/travel partner and I did a lot of research on the Portland food and drinks scene in preparation for our trip. Among the themes that quickly emerged: coffee and donuts, plus other artisanal sweets and breakfast items. With a little planning, we managed to hit most of the major places on our list. I knew we’d cover the classics – I’d heard about Voodoo Doughnut for years, and Stumptown is a well-known roaster whose brews I love when I can get them here in Chicago. But I didn’t expect another donut shop (Blue Star) to win me over with its brioche-like dough and bold-flavored glazes, or to taste such an outstanding bagel-and-cream-cheese combination at Bowery Bagels that I thought it could only exist in Sriracha-spiked dreams, or to have the best French macarons either of us had ever tasted at Ken’s. And as someone who loves spending time in coffee shops, I was thrilled by Stumptown’s wall of magazines to go with its impeccable cups (I paged through Barista and Imbibe) and the vastly different but equally enjoyable atmospheres at Extracto and Sterling. I could go on, but just see for yourself in the photos below.

Oreo-peanut butter doughnut and apple fritter, Voodoo Doughnut
Oreo-peanut butter “ODB” doughnut and apple fritter, Voodoo Doughnut
Blueberry-bourbon-basil donut (and dulce de leche-hazelnut donut, not pictured), Blue Star Donuts
Blueberry-bourbon-basil donut (and dulce de leche-hazelnut donut, not pictured), Blue Star Donuts
Thai chili peanut bagel with lemongrass cream cheese, Bowery Bagels
Thai chili peanut bagel with lemongrass cream cheese, Bowery Bagels
Biscuit with pimento cheese, Pine State Biscuts
Biscuit with pimento cheese, Pine State Biscuts
Almond brittle with salted ganache and Happy Birthday Elvis with malted banana, peanut butter, and marionberry jam, Salt & Straw
Almond brittle with salted ganache and Happy Birthday Elvis with malted banana, peanut butter, and marionberry jam, Salt & Straw
Macarons in chocolate-mint, orange-ginger-chevre, and salted caramel-coffee, Ken's Artisan Bakery
Macarons in chocolate-mint, orange-ginger-chevre, and salted caramel-coffee, Ken’s Artisan Bakery
Chai latte, Extracto Coffeehouse & Roastery
Chai latte, Extracto Coffeehouse & Roastery
Cappuccino, Stumptown Coffee
Cappuccino, Stumptown Coffee

The details: Voodoo Doughnut, 22 SW 3rd Ave.; Blue Star Donuts, 1237 SW Washington St.; Bowery Bagels, 310 NW Broadway; Pine State Biscuits, 2204 NE Alberta St.; Salt & Straw, 2035 NE Alberta St.; Ken’s Artisan Bakery, 338 NW 21st Ave.; Stumptown Coffee, 128 SW 3rd Ave. and 1026 SW Stark St.; Extracto Coffeehouse & Roastery, 2921 NE Killingsworth St.; Sterling Coffee Roasters, 417 NW 21st Ave.

Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Portland by the numbers & photo recap

This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013. Jump to all posts.

Beer flights and bread pudding at Deschutes Brewery
Beer sample flights and caramel mocha bread pudding at Deschutes Brewery

I’m back from Portland, and let’s just say it far surpassed my gastronomic expectations. I was impressed by the quality and originality of everything I ate and drank, and generally had a blast. We got to explore the majority of the city – mostly on foot, to burn off at least a few calories! – and also ventured to nearby scenic areas during the last two days.

And now, a quick numerical breakdown:

Full days spent in Portland: 4
Types of cuisine tried: 9
Local beers sampled: 29
Local wines sampled: 7
Donut varieties tasted: 4
Food carts visited: 4
Coffee beverages consumed: 8+
Sit-down meals enjoyed: 7
Sales tax paid: $0!!
Waterfalls seen: 3

Wahkeena Falls
Wahkeena Falls

Needless to say, I have a lot to talk about here on the blog.

All posts:

Look for these posts throughout the next week. In the meantime, check out the slideshow below to see my Instagram photos from the trip.

Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Off to Portland!

These bikes were in Chicago...but I'll be seeing a lot more in Portland!
I found these bikes on a snowy morning in Chicago…but I’ll be seeing a whole lot more of them in Portland!

Just a quick update: I’ll be spending the next five days in Portland, Oregon, on vacation. I’ve never been before, but absolutely cannot wait to dive into a food scene I’ve heard so much about. We have an ambitious itinerary – for example, a different pairing of coffee shop and doughnut/bagel/biscuit place is planned for each morning – and hope to fit in as many food trucks, craft brews, and local fare as possible (while also taking in the beautiful scenery and culture of the city, of course). I’m especially looking forward to legendary Thai food on Saturday and a seasonal four-course brunch on Sunday!

Check back on the blog next week for a full report of my Portland adventures.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: The Kedzie breakfast, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

The Kedzie, Grandma J's Local Kitchen
The Kedzie, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was overjoyed by this unique take on eggs benedict on a recent weekday morning. The poached eggs sit atop cheddar jasmine rice cakes, crispy on the outside and cheesy on the inside, with hollandaise, pico de gallo, and black beans to tie it together. Large pieces of grilled pineapple and red pepper also make a statement as garnishes, joined by a pleasant arugula salad. It’s filling and a little exotic, meant to be enjoyed with coffee and a good read (in my case, the never-ending quest to catch up on magazines).

Sunny interior, Grandma J's Local Kitchen
Sunny interior, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

Walking into Grandma J’s is like stepping into someone’s living room, mismatched furniture and all. Bold art, antique photos, and knick-knacks huddle under the colorful fabric panels that adorn the ceiling, and an armoire surrounded by wall-mounted clocks holds an array of hot sauces, a gentle reminder that it’s still a restaurant. The service is casual and friendly, and the open kitchen makes it feel like you’re pulling up a stool to watch Grandma cook (if Grandma was younger, with hipster sensibilities). It’s tucked away in Humboldt Park, a block from my old apartment – I so wish it had opened while I still lived there, as it would have been a dream to have brunch like this within walking distance. If you go, make sure to also stop for a treat at 100-year-old Roeser’s Bakery, just across North Avenue.

Mason jars and cozy details, Grandma J's Local Kitchen
Mason jars and cozy details, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

The details: Grandma J’s Local Kitchen, 1552 N Kedzie Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Restaurant Week

Recap: Restaurant Week 2013

After 10 days of indulgent dining, Chicago Restaurant Week 2013 came to an end on Sunday. While I’m a little forlorn that the week is over, I’m also very grateful for seven excellent meals, and the chance to share them with you here.

My Instagram photo recaps of each meal are shown in the gallery; follow the links below to read more:

Part 1: Blackbird and Carriage House
Part 2: Vermilion and Cafe Spiaggia
Part 3: Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba, Sunda, and Frontier
View all coverage.

If you participated in Restaurant Week, I’d love to hear about your experience in the comments!

Categories
Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba, Sunda, and Frontier

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Lunch at Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

Endive salad with blue cheese and almonds, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Endive and blue cheese salad with almonds and membrillo, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

Best Bite: The generously portioned endive salad was a unique start to our lively meal. Amid the tang of blue cheese and vinaigrette, I especially appreciated the membrillo (sweet quince paste) and marcona almonds. Colorful, too – especially with my pomegranate mimosa as a backdrop. See full menu.

Other notes: Definitely the best value of the week, with soup, bread, cold tapas, warm tapas, and dessert for the $22 lunch price – it was the first time I took home leftovers! Speaking of the soup, it was creamy, comforting mushroom, with a manchego toast that made it feel almost like a Spanish version of french onion soup. Also enjoyed my petite caramelized banana dessert, with lots of crushed pistachios. Cheerful, bustling atmosphere as always.

Mushroom soup with manchego toast, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Mushroom soup with manchego toast, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

The details: Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba, 2024 N Halsted St., Chicago.

Dinner at Sunda

Miso-bronzed black cod with red curry and glazed eggplant, Sunda
Miso-bronzed black cod with red curry and glazed eggplant, Sunda

Best Bite: So many fun courses at Sunda, but I couldn’t get enough of this miso-bronzed black cod. Don’t let its plain appearance fool you: the buttery fish was ultra-flavorful from the miso and red curry, and the glazed eggplant underneath was a revelation for this eggplant skeptic. It also served as a nice contrast to pork belly sticks in the previous course, and left enough room for me to enjoy my chocolate mousse for dessert. See full menu.

Other notes: Besides the great food, our group of 8 also thoroughly relished Sunda’s exotic cocktails. Of all the varieties, the Grass Tiger (below) was the clear winner for me. I adored the heat of jalapeño-infused gin with cool ginger beer, mint, lemongrass, and more citrus. You can even check out the restaurant’s Vine video of a bartender mixing this delicious drink.

Grass Tiger cocktail, Sunda
Grass Tiger cocktail with jalapeño-infused gin and ginger beer, Sunda

The details: Sunda, 110 W Illinois St., Chicago.

Dinner at Frontier

Wild boar chop with sweet potato puree, Frontier
Wild boar chop with sweet potato puree, Frontier

Best Bite: When I saw all the game meat featured on Frontier’s gastropub-y menu, I knew I’d go straight for the wild boar chop. I loved the flavors of the meat and sauce, and with the sweet potato puree, toasted marshmallow, and crispy kale, it was basically a hunter’s Thanksgiving. See full menu.

Other notes: Duck tacos and antelope meatballs with gnocchi were both tasty starters, and Frontier pulled off its s’more dessert with just the right level of char and melty chocolate. Great beers and cozy fireplace too.

S'more, Frontier
S’more, Frontier

The details: Frontier, 1072 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Vermilion and Cafe Spiaggia

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Dinner at Vermilion

Mango-cardamom flan, Vermilion
Mango-cardamom flan, Vermilion

Best Bite: I was partial to dessert, a mango-cardamom flan that made for a creamy, aromatic finish to our Latin-Indian fusion meal. The lychee and tart cranberry garnishes set off the flan nicely, though I wish there had been more than one piece of lychee. See full menu.

Other notes: Also enjoyed the caldeirada de peixe (Brazilian seafood stew), loaded with seafood and the right amount of heat, and artichoke pakoras made a nice, street food-inspired starter. Service was a little off, though, and the setup of the menu itself wasn’t the best value – an $11 upgrade to normal entree portions made the tasting almost cost more than the sum of the courses. Liked the lighting and red decor.

Brazilian seafood stew with tomato rice, Vermilion
Brazilian seafood stew with tomato rice, Vermilion

The details: Vermilion, 10 W Hubbard St., Chicago.

Lunch at Cafe Spiaggia

Gnocchi with pork and beef ragu, Cafe Spiaggia
Gnocchi with pork and beef ragu, Cafe Spiaggia

Best Bite: This one was a tie. My entree’s gnocchi were impossibly fluffy, perhaps the best texture of any gnocchi I’ve tasted, with a meaty ragu that wasn’t too thick. And then there were the bomboloni, a heavenly trio of Italian doughnuts for dessert. Again, I was impressed by the airy texture (they weren’t greasy at all!) and the apple-cinnamon compote and poppyseed sugar recalled all the comfort of cider doughnuts from my local orchard growing up – just in a more refined package. See full menu.

Other notes: Lovely first-course ribollita soup, with tomatoes, kale, and cannellini beans. Excellent service and pleasant view of Michigan Avenue and the lake, even on a gray, slushy day.

Bomboloni with apple-cinnamon compote, Cafe Spiaggia
Bomboloni with apple-cinnamon compote, Cafe Spiaggia

The details: Cafe Spiaggia, 980 N Michigan Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Blackbird and Carriage House

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Lunch at Blackbird

Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird
Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird

Best Bite: While no dish was less than excellent, I was most wowed by the starter, a superbly delicate piece of smoked Arctic char. I loved the crunch from cauliflower and pear, and just enough meatiness from the tiny dollop of ‘nduja, a type of spreadable salami. It set the tone for the other unique flavor combinations to follow. See full menu.

Other notes: Gorgeous plating, quiet space, surprising main course accompaniments (onion noodles and buttermilk sauce to go with grilled sturgeon), and decadent dessert (an elegant Nutella-banana mash-up) with coffee service.

Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird
Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird

The details: Blackbird, 619 W Randolph St., Chicago.

Dinner at Carriage House

Crispy braised pork shoulder
Crispy braised pork shoulder entree, Carriage House

Best Bite: The entree best showed off the restaurant’s upscale take on low-country cuisine. The melt-in-your-mouth pork shoulder came with a host of balanced companions: smoked plums, pickled peppers, and celery hearts, atop grits and pork jus. With prevalent vinegar to cut through the richness, it was a pleasantly refined Southern dish. See full menu.

Other notes: Outstanding side of skillet cornbread, divine coffee-fudge dipping sauce for the beignets at dessert, tasty (and strong) rum punch, colorful ceramic dishware, and a table in the cozy porch area, with plaid flannel blankets over the chairs and plenty of candles.

Skillet cornbread, Carriage House
Skillet cornbread, Carriage House

The details: Carriage House, 1700 W Division St., Chicago.