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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: crab rangoon & Painkiller No. 3, Three Dots and a Dash

Painkiller No. 3, with
Painkiller No. 3, with Bajan rum, Jamaican rum, coconut liqueur, passionfruit, pineapple, and cream

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Three Dots and a Dash has been generating buzz ever since bartender Paul McGee announced last year that he was leaving the Whistler to be involved with a tiki concept. The basement bar finally opened in River North two weeks ago, and it truly is a tiki paradise, down to every last swizzle stick. The drink menu is extensive – and fully illustrated, of course – so for a girl who really likes rum, it was a paralyzing task to decide which tropical concoction to order first, even with a significant head-start while I waited for friends to arrive. I was thrilled with my first selection, the Painkiller No. 3, which was a frothy, just-sweet-enough blend of pineapple, rum, coconut, and cinnamon, topped off by a flower and cinnamon stick. It’s worth noting that every drink we ordered came in a different ornate tiki vessel with its own beautiful set of garnishes.

Blue crab rangoon with four dipping sauces: mustard, chili, sweet & sour, and peanut
Blue crab rangoon with four dipping sauces: mustard, chili, sweet & sour, and peanut

The snacks we tried proved to be a suitable match for the outstanding cocktails. My favorites were the crab rangoon, fried golden-brown with a thin, smooth filling that actually tasted like crab rather than a hunk of cream cheese. I also adored the divided dish of four dipping sauces (chili, mustard, peanut, and citrusy sweet-and-sour) that were versatile enough to mix-and-match with our Thai fried chicken and coconut shrimp as well. I have no doubt that Three Dots and a Dash will become a major River North destination, but I’m hoping that at least the alley entrance, marked only by a single tiki torch, might take the crowds a little longer to find.

Bunny's Banana Daiquiri, with
Another great drink: Bunny’s Banana Daiquiri, with Jamaican rum, spiced rum, overproof rum, coconut liqueur, banana, lime, and nutmeg – plus the dolphin garnish!
Greeted by this wall of skulls on the way downstairs into the bar
Greeted by this wall of skulls on the way downstairs into the bar

The details: Three Dots and a Dash, 435 N Clark St., Chicago.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: French onion soup and chicken curry crepe, La Creperie

Traditional french onion soup, with bread and melted emmenthal cheese
Traditional French onion soup, with bread and melted emmenthal cheese

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Sadly, my first visit to La Creperie was in its final weeks of operation – the classic Lakeview café is closing its doors after 41 years in business. With added urgency, my friend chose to celebrate his birthday over brunch here this past weekend, and I was happy to oblige. I was immediately charmed by the back patio, with red-checkered tablecloths and quaint china atop tables that were nestled between the trees. And while it’s a little rare to order an appetizer with brunch, we’d heard this French onion soup was not to be missed – and am I ever glad we didn’t miss it! The broiled lid of emmenthal cheese was everything you’d want this classic soup’s topper to be: mild and gooey inside, with crispier bits to tear off around the edges of the crock. The deep onion flavor shone through in the broth, accented by thyme and not overly salty.

Crepe filled with chicken in Madras curry with chutney & rice
Crepe filled with chicken in Madras curry with chutney & rice

Although I barely had enough room left, I also enjoyed my variety of the café’s namesake dish. The crepe itself was thin, but hearty enough to hold up to the savory fillings. The creamy madras curry sauce was delicious with the tender vegetables and chicken, and though the rice seemed like more of an afterthought, the chutney added a nice sweetness – so much so that I piled on a little more of my own gingery Major Grey when I finished off my crepe leftovers back at home.

Mimosas on the adorable patio
Mimosas on the adorable patio
The café's sign in its final weeks
The café’s sign in its final weeks

The details: La Creperie, 2845 N Clark St., Chicago (closing, effective late August 2013).

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Everything wings, stuffed cabbage, and ice cold noodles, Mott St.

Everything wings glazed with soy, jaggery and dried chilis, tossed with sesame, poppy seed, fried shallots, and served with tzatziki
Everything wings glazed with soy, jaggery and dried chilis, tossed with sesame, poppy seed, fried shallots, and served with tzatziki

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Mott St. is the second venture from Chef Edward Kim and his team, whose first restaurant, Ruxbin, earned a nod from Bon Appétit as one of the 10 best new restaurants in the country (I had a killer clambake there two years ago). When I heard that Mott St. would have more of a night market vibe, I was definitely in – and our meal delivered, one dish after another in a parade of intriguing, unexpected flavors. The everything wings had drawn comparison to the huge, sticky ones at Pok Pok, which I tasted in February, but I found them to be entirely different. These chicken wings seriously tasted like an everything bagel (hence the name), with a slightly sweet glaze and generous dusting of sesame and poppy seeds, plus subtle heat from the chilis. The bagel comparison drew even stronger when you added the creamy, dill-heavy tzatziki dipping sauce. As with most good wings: messy to eat, but worth it.

The theme continued with the stuffed cabbage, which surprisingly recalled comforting lasagna from the very first bite – just lasagna that was layered with zingy kimchi, crispy rice, and pork instead of ricotta and red sauce. The flavors married especially well in this dish, everything extra-seasoned by the kimchi broth at the bottom. And as our server enthusiastically promised, the ice cold noodles made a lovely palate cleanser after the rest of the savory dishes. Between the chilly temperature and mellow flavors, it was an incredibly clean dish, with the tender beef and quail egg adding just enough richness.

Napa kimchi cabbage rolls stuffed with pork butt and sticky rice, pan-seared and boiled in kimchi broth
Napa kimchi cabbage rolls stuffed with pork butt and sticky rice, pan-seared and boiled in kimchi broth
Ice cold noodles, with buckwheat noodles, beef brisket, and turnip top kimchi broth
Ice cold noodles, with buckwheat noodles, beef brisket, and turnip top kimchi broth

The details: Mott St., 1401 N Ashland Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Boss Hog sandwich, Gaslight Coffee Roasters

Boss Hog sandwich with ham, red cabbage, spicy giardiniera, and BBQ chips
Boss Hog sandwich with ham, red cabbage, spicy giardiniera, and BBQ chips on an onion roll

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’ve sipped coffee and espresso many times at this neighborhood fave, but this was my first time ordering from the food menu. And while putting potato chips on a sandwich is a custom I fully support, it’s rare to see one served that way straight from the kitchen. Gaslight is definitely onto something with the towering Boss Hog, a squishy, sweet onion roll piled with ham, some seriously spicy pickle-jalapeño giardiniera, and plenty of barbecue chips. It was the ideal crunchy lunch to go with my iced Americano as I powered through some work.

The details: Gaslight Coffee Roasters, 2385 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Dulce de leche licuado & taco al pastor, Big Star

Dulce de leche licuado (milkshake) and taco al pastor, with marinated, spit-roasted pork shoulder, grilled pineapple, grilled onion, and cilantro
Dulce de leche licuado and taco al pastor, with marinated, spit-roasted pork shoulder, grilled pineapple, grilled onion, and cilantro

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: On this stiflingly hot July week, it seemed fitting to write about somewhere that’s become a Chicago summer staple: Big Star. More specifically, its patio, with now-famous yellow chairs that people are willing to wait hours to sit in. I went on a weekday evening for the first time in a while, and thankfully was early enough to avoid waiting. I knew I’d get a taco al pastor, my favorite in the city, with caramelized pineapple, juicy pork, and tons of cilantro. But I also thought I’d try something new to quench my thirst on such a hot day, and went for the dulce de leche licuado. It’s listed on the menu as a “milkshake”; it’s really more of a Mexican smoothie, with little pieces of ice rather than the smooth texture of ice cream. But for those of us who crave the sweet-and-salty combination, this drink really hits the spot. There’s lots of salt to balance out the caramel, and it actually worked well with the taco’s pineapple too. Yes, you can also beat the heat with their excellent margaritas (now available in draft pitchers) and micheladas, but it was fun to mix it up with something sweeter.

The details: Big Star, 1531 N Damen Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Lobster club and parmesan-sage fries, Siena Tavern

Lobster club, with citrus-poached lobster, frisee, pancetta-cured bacon, tomato, herb aioli, toasted brioche, and parmesan-sage fries
Lobster club, with citrus-poached lobster, frisee, pancetta-cured bacon,
tomato, herb aioli, toasted brioche, and parmesan-sage fries

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Siena Tavern has been on my radar primarily because of executive chef Fabio Viviani, best known for appearing on Top Chef and whom I got to meet at Chicago Gourmet a few years ago. I went for the first time for brunch over the weekend, eventually choosing from the lunch side of the menu. The lobster club sandwich had a lot going on, in a good way, while still letting the citrus-poached lobster be the star of the show, enhanced by smoky bacon. The juicy tomato and frisee made it a little messy, but the bright herb aioli soaking into the brioche held everything together. And I’m a fan of crispy sage on pretty much anything, but it worked especially well on the fries, also tossed with salty parmesan and garlic. Aioli and ketchup were both served in metal measuring cups, which added a nice rustic touch to the plate. My leather barrel chair also happened to be outlandishly comfortable, which made the experience extra luxurious.

The details: Siena Tavern, 51 W Kinzie St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Mexican Firing Squad cocktail and churros, Masa Azul

Mexican Firing Squad, with tequila blanco, grenadine, lime, bitters, and soda; and churros with orange zest
Mexican Firing Squad, with tequila blanco, grenadine, lime,
bitters, and soda; and churros with dark chocolate sauce and orange zest

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I ventured over to Masa Azul while on a post-thunderstorm walk one evening, in the mood for a refreshing drink and something sweet to go with it. This was my second visit to Masa Azul, although my very first experience with head bartender Jenny Kessler’s cocktails was at Lula Cafe’s “Violent Hour” Halloween transformation last year. The delicious drink involved mezcal, apple cider, malbec, and serrano pepper, and I’ve jumped at the chance to try more of her imaginative combinations ever since. The Mexican Firing Squad was a nice balance of fruit, fizz, and smooth tequila flavor, and was ideal for sipping out on the sidewalk patio. The miniature round churros, the restaurant’s sole dessert offering, were pleasantly unique, with a soft center and plenty of citrus from the orange zest. I also liked how well the bittersweet chocolate sauce evened out the sugary fried dough. Together, they made a summery drink-dessert pairing that I’d go for again – although with so many interesting options, I doubt I could commit to the same cocktail twice.

The details: Masa Azul, 2901 W Diversey Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Negroni slushy and pimento toast, Parson’s Chicken & Fish

Negroni slushy with letherbee gin, luxando bitter, sweet vermouth, and citron
Negroni slushy with letherbee gin, luxardo bitter, sweet vermouth, and citron

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: This novel Negroni slushy has appeared in basically every Chicago summer/cocktail/patio/drinking article since Parson’s Chicken and Fish opened in mid-May, even called “the coolest Negroni in the world.” The fanfare is justified, though: it’s an excellent Negroni in a fun format, avoiding the watery or overly sweet fate that befalls most frozen beverages. With locally made Letherbee gin and citrusy Luxardo bitter, it’s mellow, refreshing, and just bitter enough.

Toast with pimento cheese, charred radishes, and pea shoots
Toast with pimento cheese, charred radishes, and pea shoots

Snack-wise, I was torn between the shrimp and pimento toast, and though I still plan to try the seafood variety next time, I was more than satisfied with pimento. My Midwestern upbringing didn’t involve a lot of pimento cheese, but especially as Southern-influenced cuisine becomes more popular in Chicago, I’ve now tasted several knock-out versions (including Zingerman’s, my favorite to have at home) and am starting to understand its following. At Parson’s, the pimento spread is smooth (no coarse shreds) and ultra-cheesy atop buttery toast. The sourness and acidity from pickle relish and charred radishes beautifully round out each bite, punctuated by the pea shoots. I also appreciated the portion of three moderate slices, enough to share easily.

Of course, I liked the fried chicken, too – though I found it to be best on its own, without any of the housemade sauces – and the mezcal margarita gave the slushy a serious run for its money. Check out more photos below of the food and atmosphere.

Menu and a margarita, another standout cocktail with el buho mescal, torres orange brandy, orange & lime juice, maguey sweet sap, and a sour patch rim
Menu and a margarita, another standout cocktail with el buho mescal, torres orange brandy, orange & lime juice, maguey sweet sap, and a sour patch rim
The interior bar at Parson's, with the negroni slushy machine in the center
The interior bar at Parson’s, with the negroni slushy machine in the center
The namesake fried chicken
The namesake fried chicken
Funnel cake with honey, brown butter, and green peppercorn brittle
Funnel cake with honey, brown butter, and green peppercorn brittle
Striped umbrellas & picnic tables on the spacious patio
Striped umbrellas & picnic tables on the spacious patio (prepare to wait on weekends)

The details: Parson’s Chicken and Fish, 2952 W Armitage Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Roasted beet salad and more, Perennial Virant

Roasted beet salad with strawberries, grilled onions, ricotta, black walnut butter, black garlic
Roasted beet salad with strawberries, grilled onions, ricotta, black walnut butter, and black garlic

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: This was technically my second visit to Perennial Virant – the first was on opening night a couple years ago, but I’d been looking for an opportunity to go back ever since. It’s on the first floor of Hotel Lincoln, right across the street from where the Green City Market is held every Wednesday and Saturday in Lincoln Park, and so it’s easy to understand the inspiration for the heavily seasonal menu. Of all the dishes we tasted, I was most blown away by the roasted beet salad. I’m not a huge beet person, but I was practically obsessed with the combination of beets and strawberries. Joined by the creamy ricotta, mellow garlic, and balsamic, it hit every note and felt exceedingly fresh. I also loved the crispy rice cake, nicely contrasted by the smoky vinaigrette.

To make the evening extra-special, our meal concluded with a tour of the kitchen (let’s just say it helps to know people!), which was a surprise to my three girlfriends and me. Once we weaved downstairs, through cooking and dishwashing areas, we reached the real highlight of the tour: the wall-to-wall shelves of the pickles and preserves for which Chef Paul Virant is best known. Every kind of produce you could imagine was meticulously jarred and labeled, ready to be judiciously incorporated into dishes in the weeks and months to come.

All kinds of pickles in the pantry
All kinds of pickles in the pantry

And in the summer, it’s almost impossible to leave the building without hopping an elevator to the roof and emerging in what is probably my favorite rooftop bar in the city, the J. Parker. Between the meal itself and the incredible post-meal view, it was hard to stop oohing and aahing.

Crispy carnaroli rice cake with Brunkow cheese curds, pea shoots, smoked spring onion vinaigrette, and pickled summer beans
Crispy carnaroli rice cake with brunkow cheese curds, pea shoots, smoked spring onion vinaigrette, and pickled summer beans
Sundae with Hazzard Free Farm oatmeal cookie, rum ice cream, and rum raisin caramel
Sundae with Hazzard Free Farm oatmeal cookie, rum ice cream, and rum raisin caramel
The Lay Up, with Russian Standard, rhubarb, yellow chartreuse, maraschino, and lemon
The Lay Up, with Russian Standard, rhubarb, yellow chartreuse, maraschino, and lemon

The details: Perennial Virant, 1800 N Lincoln Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Squash blossoms, green beans, salmon, chicken (and everything else), Girl & the Goat

Skuna Bay salmon with braised peanut, strawberry, chimichurri, spiced beef, and shallot yogurt
Skuna Bay salmon with braised peanut, strawberry, chimichurri, spiced beef, and shallot yogurt

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Just under three years ago, you would have found me constantly refreshing OpenTable.com, waiting for the restaurant page to first become available so that I could make a reservation for the night of my birthday at Girl & the Goat, the much-anticipated restaurant by Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard (in case she isn’t a household name for you already) that was finally going to open. That dinner remains one of my all-time favorites in Chicago: experiencing all her outlandishly flavorful food for the first time, sipping surprise birthday champagne, and getting to chat with Chef Steph herself at the end of the meal. So could future visits live up to that first one? My answer this weekend was a resounding yes.

You know your meal is off to a great start when you’re spreading coffee butter onto warm bread and drizzling blueberry vinaigrette on top. And then you bite into a squash blossom rangoon, a fleeting seasonal jewel that’s stuffed with creamy crab and fried in airy tempura batter. And then you’re chowing down on what you immediately know are among the best green bean and cauliflower dishes in existence, each with layers of salty and spicy and sweet, and then savory empanadas filled with the tender goat meat that’s incorporated into enough dishes to merit its own menu section. And then the salmon, which you ordered partially because the server told you the fish was flown in from New Zealand and partially because you can’t believe that salmon could really work with strawberry and beef and peanut and yogurt, could it? But of course it does, all of the distinct components tangled together in the best way. And then there’s the chicken. You’ve come to expect at this point that it will be unlike any chicken dish you’ve had before, especially since the server explained it would be brined to order, glazed with maple-y goodness, and baked in the wood-fire oven. And indeed, you can’t stop talking about how good this chicken is, not to mention the soft, buttery naan and remarkable ramp goddess dressing that come with it. You’ll order dessert without question.

I think you get the point here. The service is outstanding, the atmosphere feels special yet free from pretension, and all the little details come together for ultimate consistency. So set a date 6–8 weeks in advance, make a reservation, and get ready for a meal to remember.

Squash blossom rangoon with crab, chive yogurt, and toasted almonds
Squash blossom rangoon with crab, chive yogurt, and toasted almonds
Sauteed green beans with fish sauce vinaigrette and cashews
Sauteed green beans with fish sauce vinaigrette and cashews
Goat empanadas with romesco and radish-endive slaw
Goat empanadas with romesco and radish-endive slaw
Wood-fired Walter's chicken with asparagus, rhubarb, and "ramp goddess" dressing
Wood-fired Walter’s chicken with asparagus, rhubarb, and “ramp goddess” dressing
The Lake Effect cocktail with Journeyman rye, F.E.W. gin, Koval chrysanthemum honey liqueur, and lemon
The Lake Effect cocktail with Journeyman rye, F.E.W. gin, Koval chrysanthemum honey liqueur, and lemon

The details: Girl & the Goat, 809 W Randolph St., Chicago