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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Foie gras, Acadia

Miso-cured and grilled foie gras with pineapple, chocolate, almond cookie, unagi, and malt
Miso-cured and grilled foie gras with pineapple, chocolate, almond cookie, unagi, and malt

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Pardon my gushing, but this was one of those dishes that only comes along every once in a while, the kind where you sigh over every bite and can’t even put together the words to describe how good it is because you’re in such a state of bliss. I love foie gras, and Acadia’s preparation has set a new standard for me. The thick slab of miso-cured foie rivaled the size of my iPhone, and captured the flame-licked meatiness of a grilled steak – that is, if a steak melted into richness and practically disappeared on your tongue. Compressed pineapple underneath hit a bright, juicy note, and the accompanying smoked banana puree, almond cookie crumbles, and unagi sauce all came together in beautiful, if unlikely, harmony. And the chocolate nest was served at the perfect temperature: each curlicue kept its shape on the plate, but softened into a coating as soon as it hit the warm foie. Executive chef Ryan McCaskey clearly has a deft hand in showcasing sweet flavors while still maintaining balance. This foie gras was the second course of a spectacular dining experience that I would recommend for any special occasion.

The details: Acadia, 1639 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Graham Elliot Bistro

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Graham Elliot Bistro

Beef stroganoff with mustard spaetzle, mushroom, and peppered cream
Beef stroganoff with mustard spaetzle, mushroom, and peppered cream

Best Bite: The signature beef short rib stroganoff was an ideal winter entree, with a substantial portion of tender meat flanked by hearty mushrooms and dabs of peppery cream sauce. And if a dish comes with spaetzle, I will mostly likely order it, so I was especially impressed by this spot-on mustard variety. The soup course came in a close second-favorite, a chestnut bisque with a surprising combination of sweetness and complexity from allspice, sage, and rosemary marshmallow. See full menu.

Banana split with vanilla bean, candied hazelnut, and pretzel crumb
Banana split with vanilla bean, candied hazelnut, and pretzel crumb

Other notes: I loved the dessert presentation of a layered banana split in a mason jar. I’m also pretty sure our table was the best in the house: a private, high-backed booth with room to spare for our four-person party and a brightly colored stained glass window enclosing one end.

Stained glass window enclosing our table
Stained glass window enclosing our table

The details: Graham Elliot Bistro, 841 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Musclemen ramen, Oiistar

Musclemen ramen with mussels, onion, chili pepper, scallion, and bonito miso
Musclemen ramen with mussels, onion, chili pepper, scallion, and bonito miso

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: When a ramen craving struck me on a snowy afternoon, I popped over to Oiistar, a relatively new Wicker Park spot I’d been eyeing. Bypassing all the tempting varieties of bao, and even the avocado tempura – next time! – I zeroed in on a mussel-centric ramen. Besides at least a dozen plump mussels, the giant bowl also contained an umami-rich seafood broth with chewy noodles, two kinds of onion, and tons of garlic. Moderately spicy chiles also upped the soup’s warmth factor. Happily rotating between slurps of noodles, mussels, and broth, I settled in with a book and soaked up the sounds of the restaurant’s catchy R&B playlist.

The details: Oiistar, 1385 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake, baked egg & more from brunch, Avec

Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake with apple-rosemary compote and whipped cream
Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake with apple-rosemary compote and whipped cream

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: After a decade of being dinner-only, Avec launched brunch service last summer – an announcement that made the Chicago food world collectively squeal with delight. While I’ve already blogged about Avec’s legendary stuffed dates, which we ordered almost reflexively, the other stellar brunch plates merited a post of their own. The day’s special was the wood-fired pancake, a velvety stunner cooked in a cast-iron pan and topped with fragrant apple-rosemary compote and mounds of whipped cream. Its Dutch Baby–style texture was unbelievable. Meanwhile, the baked egg dish showed off Avec’s Mediterranean leanings. Its sauce was layered with surprising flavors: chickpeas, roasted peppers of all kinds, and salty feta, all begging to be sopped up with the bread on the side.

Baked egg with roasted peppers, chickpeas, guanciale, feta, and breadcrumbs
Baked egg with roasted peppers, chickpeas, guanciale, feta, and breadcrumbs
Marinated butcher's steak with squash polenta, charred radicchio, pepita pesto, and a fried egg
Marinated butcher’s steak with squash polenta, charred radicchio, pepita pesto, and a fried egg

Another favorite was the butcher’s steak, probably the most beautiful steak-and-eggs in history. The fried egg was perfect, and the steak, ultra-tender from the marinade, shone even brighter with bold accompaniments of charred radicchio, squash polenta, pesto, parsley, and crunchy pepitas. As hard as it was to see this meal come to a close, the indulgence of the stuffed dates at the beginning was evenly matched by the petite nutter butter squares at its conclusion. Don’t miss these: the peanut butter-chocolate base, subtle feuilletine crunch, smooth ganache, and a sprinkling of sea salt made it the ultimate last bite.

Nutter butters as a final bite
Nutter butters as a final bite

The details: Avec, 615 W Randolph St., Chicago.

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Categories
Travel Eats

Travel Eats: my most magical bites at Walt Disney World

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Mickey Mouse pretzel from a stand in Magic Kingdom's Tomorrowland
Mickey Mouse pretzel from a stand in Magic Kingdom’s Tomorrowland

I spent my first full week of 2014 on vacation in Walt Disney World with my family – including my 6-year-old niece and 3-year-old nephew, who were especially caught up in the magic of Disney. While it was a blast to see shows, go on rides, and otherwise get in touch with my inner child, I was just as interested in the culinary landscape (let’s face it, Disney World might as well be its own city). Here’s the best of what I ate and drank in 7 days across 4 Disney parks.

Magic Kingdom

Due to its popularity with the kids (and adults) in our party, we spent more time in this park than any of the others. From a luscious, beautifully plated dessert at Cinderella’s castle – in the company of princesses! – to a Thanksgiving-style feast at a patriotic tavern, I was impressed by our fantasy-infused meals. I knew I’d be in for an extravagant week when “grabbing a hot dog” on Main Street to make it time for the electric parade resulted in a behemoth dog smothered in so much pulled pork and coleslaw that I could barely pick it up to eat it. Other Main Street treats included a dessert-like latte (at a cleverly disguised Starbucks) and a Mickey rice-krispie treat made fresh at the confectionery.

Cinderella’s Royal Table, Fantasyland

"The Clock Strikes Twelve" chocolate mousse, Cinderella's Royal Table in Magic Kingdom
“The Clock Strikes Twelve” with white and dark chocolate, Cinderella’s Royal Table in Magic Kingdom

Casey’s Corner, Main Street

Barbecue slaw dog, Casey's Corner in Magic Kingdom
Barbecue slaw dog with pulled pork, coleslaw, and barbecue sauce, Casey’s Corner

Liberty Tree Tavern, Liberty Square

Thanksgiving-style dinner with a meat and stuffing platter, mashed potatoes and gravy, mac and cheese, green beans, and (my favorite) spiced winter vegetables, Liberty Tree Tavern
Family-style Thanksgiving dinner, Liberty Tree Tavern
Johnny Appleseed cake, Liberty Tree Tavern
Johnny Appleseed’s Cake filled with apples and Craisins and topped with ice cream, Liberty Tree Tavern

Main Street Bakery, Main Street

Caramel flan latte, Main Street Bakery's Starbucks in Magic Kingdom
Caramel flan latte, Main Street Bakery

Main Street Confectionery, Main Street

Peanut butter-chocolate rice-krispie treat, Main Street Confectionery in Magic Kingdom
Peanut butter-chocolate rice-krispie treat, Main Street Confectionery

Epcot

Going into the trip, I was most excited to sample the international fare at Epcot’s World Showcase. Mexico proved a reliable option for creative (and strong) margaritas with caramelized pineapple and ginger or jalapeño and cucumber at La Cava del Tequila. I also loved the spicy shrimp in chile sauce at the adjacent restaurant, San Angel Inn. France also didn’t disappoint, with stunning pastries by day and perfectly cooked duck confit by night.

La Cava del Tequila, Mexico

Pineapple margarita, Cava de Tequila in Epcot's Mexico
Pineapple margarita, La Cava del Tequila
Jalapeño margarita, Cava de Tequila
Jalapeño margarita, La Cava del Tequila

San Angel Inn Restaurante, Mexico

Camarones, San Angel Inn Restaurante in Epcot's Mexico
Camarones a la Diabla with poblano rice, yuca puree, and cascabel chile sauce, San Angel Inn Restaurante

Les Halles Boulangerie & Pâtisserie, France

Pain au chocolate, Les Halles
Pain au chocolate, Les Halles Boulangerie & Pâtisserie

Chefs de France, France

Gruyere macaroni gratin, Chefs de France in Epcot's France
Macaroni baked with cream and Gruyère cheese, Chefs de France
Duck, Chefs de France in Epcot's France
Duck breast and leg confit with cherries, sweet potato puree, and patty pan squash, Chefs de France

Hollywood Studios

Hollywood Studios held my favorite dining atmosphere – next to the castle, that is – at the charming 50’s Prime Time Café, complete with TV reels, furniture, and decor from that era. From “Dad’s Liquor Cabinet” came electric lemonade with a neon-light ice cube (and yes, I took the cube home for future glowing beverages); it paired nicely with comforting meatloaf and onion rings with zesty horseradish sauce. I also felt transported to the Golden Age at the Brown Derby, imagining stars that dined on the same Cobb salad at the original Hollywood restaurant. I adored the mushroom and bleu cheese napoleon appetizer here as well. And this park was also where I attempted to conquer a jumbo turkey leg – I couldn’t finish it, but enjoyed each smoky bite.

50’s Prime Time Café

Dad's Electric Lemonade, 50's Prime Time Café in Hollywood Studios
Dad’s Electric Lemonade with with rum, vodka, blue curaçao, sweet-and-sour, and sprite, 50’s Prime Time Café
Onion rings with horseradish sauce, 50s Prime Time Café
Beer-battered onion rings and horseradish sauce, 50s Prime Time Café
Meatloaf (with extra horseradish sauce), 50s Prime Time Café
Cousin Ann’s traditional meatloaf (with extra horseradish sauce), 50s Prime Time Café

Hollywood Brown Derby

Napoleon, Hollywood Brown Derby in Hollywood Studios
Crispy phyllo napoleon of bleu affinée, wild mushroom duxelles, grilled portobello, golden chanterelles, and fig reduction, Hollywood Brown Derby
Cobb salad, Hollywood Brown Derby in Hollywood Studios
“Our Famous” Cobb salad with finely chopped greens, turkey breast, bacon, egg, tomatoes, crumbled blue cheese, avocado, chives, and Cobb dressing, Hollywood Brown Derby

Fairfax Fare

Jumbo turkey leg, Fairfax Fare in Hollywood Studios
Jumbo turkey leg, Fairfax Fare in Hollywood Studios

Animal Kingdom

With only one whirlwind day at Animal Kingdom, there wasn’t a lot of time for dining. I knew I wanted to try something from the Africa area, and the mild chicken curry with rice and pita turned out to be an excellent, filling snack. The best sip of the day was frozen mango rum lemonade, unfortunately shared and slurped too quickly to get a photo.

Chicken curry from stand in Animal Kingdom's Harambe, Africa
Chicken curry from stand in Animal Kingdom’s Harambe, Africa

And, even though it’s technically not inside Disney World, I have to gloat a tiny bit about enjoying a piña colada at the resort’s poolside bar on Polar Vortex Sunday…

Poolside piña colada
Poolside piña colada

For a comprehensive guide to all things Disney dining, check out Disney Food Blog; I found it to be a very helpful resource before and during the trip.

Categories
Best Bites

Recap: 30 More Best Bites of 2013

For the second year in a row, I’ve spent all December celebrating the rest of my favorite bites and sips from 2013. These are all dishes that I didn’t have a chance to cover as Best Bites when I originally enjoyed them. You can check out the full list of 30 below in chronological order.

View the full 2012 list here.

Choco Taco sundae
Choco Taco sundae

English breakfast
English breakfast

Peanut butter-bacon pancakes
Pancakes

Pan pizza
Pan pizza

Goat cheese chilaquiles
Goat cheese chilaquiles

PB&J ice pop
PB&J ice pop

Hush puppies and shrimp toast
Hush puppies & shrimp toast

Basil + Cream + Roasted Strawberries
Basil + Cream + Roasted Strawberries

Soft-boiled egg biscuit sandwich
Soft-boiled egg biscuit sandwich

Risotto al forno
Risotto al forno

Brioche french toast
Brioche french toast

Black Cat milkshake
Black Cat milkshake

Roasted corn fundido
Roasted corn fundido

Fried green tomato benedict
Fried green tomato benedict

Hawaiian pizza
Hawaiian pizza

Half and half sandwich
Half & half sandwich

Brown butter & blueberry pie
Brown butter & blueberry pie

Bourbon Bloody Mary
Bourbon Bloody Mary

Sandwich trio
Sandwich trio

Breakfast sandwich
Breakfast sandwich

Birthday cake doughnut
Birthday cake doughnut

Fried sweetbreads
Fried sweetbreads

Ham biscuit sandwich
Ham biscuit sandwich

Beignets
Beignets

Marshmallow latte
Marshmallow latte

Bacon parfait
Bacon parfait

Pumpkin stout
Pumpkin stout

Soft-serve gelato
Soft-serve gelato

Fried chicken & sides
Fried chicken & sides

Elk sausage & duck-fat fries
Elk sausage & duck-fat fries

Here’s to another great year of eating and drinking! See you in 2014!

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #30: Elk sausage and duck-fat fries, Hot Doug’s

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Apple elk sausage
Apple, pear, and port wine elk sausage with red fruit mustard, Port Salut cheese, and pâté de campagne

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: I’m ashamed that it took me this many years to make a trip to Hot Doug’s, the “Encased Meats Emporium and Sausage Superstore” that’s revered by hot dog devotees everywhere. Even though it took sprinting through heavy snow to catch a bus, I was delighted to find that this particular Saturday’s line didn’t even stretch past the outer door (it’s typically down the block). After thoroughly perusing the menu board, I went with an elk sausage special, along with the must-order duck-fat fries, which are only available on Friday and Saturday. The sausage was bursting with game and fruit flavors, with snap from the casing and sweetness from the mustard. Both toppings – mild Port Salut cheese and bits of country pâté – added richness and texture to every bite. Subtle duck flavor came through in the fries, and somehow made the meat taste even better. Owner Doug Sohn’s astounding warmth and friendliness completed the experience.

Duck-fat fries
Duck-fat fries

The details: Hot Doug’s, 3324 N. California Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #29: Fried chicken and sides, Honey Butter Fried Chicken

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Honey butter fried chicken with sides
4-piece fried chicken with sides of pimento mac ‘n’ cheese, whipped sweet potatoes with balsamic marshmallow, and creamed corn with Thai green curry

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: Honey Butter Fried Chicken was another darling of the Chicago food scene this year, and I finally got to check it out on a recent weeknight. There’s no question that the signature dish lives up to the hype. You really do slather whipped honey butter all over buttermilk double-battered chicken – and then immediately wonder why you haven’t been eating fried chicken this way your whole life. All the sides I tried were exceptional, too: ultra-cheesy pimento mac ‘n’ cheese spirals, green curry-scented creamed corn, and sweet potatoes with puffy balsamic marshmallow, plus the adorable honeycomb corn muffins.

The details: Honey Butter Fried Chicken, 3361 N. Elston Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #28: Soft-serve Lait Gelato, Eataly

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Soft-serve Lait Gelato in sweet milk
Soft-serve Lait Gelato in sweet milk

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: When I was helping assemble a travel guide to Eataly earlier this month, it was all but impossible to decide what to taste as I surveyed the 63,000-square-foot Italian wonderland. Among my best decisions was bypassing the Nutella bar in favor of a cup of Lait Gelato, the only soft-serve gelato of its kind in North America. I opted to keep things simple with the sweet milk flavor, which was pleasantly light while still retaining the luscious, buttery finish I expected from gelato. It will now be an obligatory treat during all future Eataly adventures.

The details: Eataly, 43 E Ohio St., Chicago.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #27: Starry Night in Sleepy Hollow pumpkin stout, DryHop Brewers

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Starry Night in Sleepy Hollow pumpkin stout
Starry Night in Sleepy Hollow pumpkin stout

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: On draft at one of Chicago’s most buzzed-about new craft breweries this year, this was my favorite pumpkin beer that I drank all fall – not to mention my favorite beer name. DryHop described the Starry Night in Sleepy Hollow as “brewed with 100 pounds of sugar pumpkins,” and I believe it, its round pumpkin flavor nicely augmented by pie spices from The Spice House. It was also an especially smooth stout, which was evidently due to the nitro pour (high nitrogen content means smaller bubbles for a creamier texture). It tasted even better paired with an outstanding wedge salad and a burger laden with aged cheddar and ancho chile-tomato jam.

The details: DryHop Brewers, 3155 N. Broadway, Chicago.