Falafel & roommates with fried cauliflower, eggplant, potato, and zucchini, with garlic, jalapeño, and lemon hot sauce
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Masada opened this month in Logan Square after 10 years in the works, and its enormous interior is most assuredly a sight to behold. Ornate, colorful lighting and flat-screen aquariums bedeck the main level’s seating area; follow technicolor stairs down to the basement, and you’ll find a full-fledged dance floor. Our table overlooked the downstairs patio, but there are also multiple upper-level patio areas, all sporting festive lighting and wrought-iron fixtures. The food itself was refreshingly simple, considering its elaborate surroundings.
I knew I’d enjoy the falafel, as its sister restaurant, Sultan’s Market, makes some of my favorite in the city, but what stood out in this wrap were its accompaniments, or “roommates,” as they were playfully described on the menu. The potatoes, eggplant, cauliflower, and zucchini were a satisfying mix, especially with doses of garlicky hot sauce and creamy tahini sauce.
Koshari with brown lentils, rice, pasta, chickpeas, tomato sauce, and caramelized onions, garnished with garlic, jalapeño, and lemon hot sauce
Koshari is a classic Egyptian dish that I hadn’t heard of before – one that “built the pyramids,” according to our server. I most appreciated all the textural contrast here: lentils, chickpeas, rice, caramelized onions, tomato sauce, and even macaroni noodles, which made me think of it as an ancient predecessor to chili mac. It was a simple, hearty dish that was easy to envision as being a home-cooking staple. The pita with olive oil and za’atar (a spice blend that I highly recommend using at home) were great to snack on before our meal arrived, and the bold hue and floral aroma of the Moroccan mojito were a perfect match for the patio’s upbeat garden vibe.
Moroccan mojito with rum, hibiscus, and mint
The details:Masada, 2205 N. California Ave., Chicago.
Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.
Smoked fish plate with smoked salmon, smoked whitefish, smoked herring, housemade trout rilettes, accompanied by capers, shallot, lemon-herb salad, pickled cucumbers, and buttered toast, Duke’s Grocery
I spent some time with friends in Washington, DC, last week, and while I didn’t get to fit in any overly elaborate meals, I still emerged with a few favorite bites from the nation’s capital. The first came at Duke’s Grocery in Dupont Circle, a café that takes its inspiration from the cuisine of East London. We ordered several of the seasonal, daily-varying dishes to share over a leisurely late lunch on the front patio. I liked everything, but the best part of our umbrella-shaded feast was the colorful fish plate, featuring four different kinds of smoked fish to layer onto toast with pleasantly mild pickles, capers, and a squeeze of lemon.
I started another morning at Penn Quarter’s Red Apron Butcher to try a tigelle, a breakfast item that had piqued my interest before the trip. The tigelle itself was a pressed Italian flatbread that was like a crispy English muffin, but denser and more flavorful. Stuffed between its two halves was spicy pimento cheese, tasso ham, and a hefty portion of egg. It was a little unwieldy at times, with egg and cheese oozing over the sides, but also the most memorable, delicious breakfast sandwich I’ve eaten lately. Plus, how can you not love the flower design that’s griddled into it?
Southern Comfort tigelle with tasso ham, egg, and spicy pimento cheese, Red Apron ButcherPeanut butter + bacon pop tart (and a glass of milk), Ted’s Bulletin
After hearing my friends rave about Ted’s Bulletin, I was happy to stop by one evening to snag one of their popular pastries for dessert. And once I saw that a peanut butter and bacon pop tart was one of my options, I didn’t need to consider anything else. It stayed true to the texture of a real pop tart, but with a decadent, sweet-and-savory twist, and went wonderfully with a glass of milk.
Finally, I knew I didn’t want to leave DC without visiting a food truck, as the scene there is much more established and diverse than it is in Chicago. When I got to Farragut Square around lunchtime, there were at least a dozen different trucks, slinging everything from Indonesian, Ethiopian, and Cajun cuisines to crepes, pies, bubble tea, and grilled cheese. After making the rounds, I decided to go with a Venezuelan arepa from Arepa Zone, whose healthy line indicated that the piping hot corn pockets were worth it. I loved the creamy chicken-avocado salad filling, and the watermelon salad on the side was a refreshing, summery touch.
Sifrina arepa with chicken-avocado salad and shredded yellow cheese, Arepa Zone truckArepa Zone truck parked along Farragut Square
Today is extra exciting because I’m being featured on another blog for Writer Wednesday! Thanks to Kristin of Not Intent on Arriving for featuring me – I really enjoyed answering her questions and reflecting on why I write. Be sure to check out her lovely blog if you haven’t already, and if you found my site through hers, welcome!
Bulletproof coffee, mixed with high-quality unsalted butter and coconut oil
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Butter coffee, also called bulletproof coffee, is one of the latest buzzed-about concepts in the food world. It’s coffee that is brewed as a pourover, but also mixed with two key ingredients: coconut oil and unsalted butter made from grass-fed cow’s milk. The idea of drinking butter along with my coffee was daunting, but intriguing enough that I had to taste it for myself (and I’d been meaning to try breakfast at Beatrix anyway).
When I took my first sip, I couldn’t immediately detect the butter. It was frothy and toasty, almost like a marshmallow latte, with subtle sweetness from the coconut oil. It tasted even better after a few more sips, coating my throat in a pleasantly silky way. As the coffee cooled down, I grew a little more aware of visible oil inside the cup and could feel myself getting too full to finish it, but I enjoyed the flavor overall. The quinoa cakes made a light, protein-rich companion to the rich coffee, especially because of the bright, basil-packed tomato sauce.
Quinoa cakes with poached eggs, tomato-basil sauce, poached-egg mayo, and window herbs
Grilled octopus and housemade spam with brussels sprout kim chee and sugar snap peas
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: A friend suggested Bottlefork for a long-overdue get-together, and we were able to duck in early on a weeknight. I was excited to be able to order Goose Island’s Devon Ave. Pale Ale on draft, an addictive limited release that’s brewed with chai tea, cardamom, and other Indian spices. Out of all the small plates we shared, the grilled octopus was my favorite. Tender octopus and well-spiced cubes of housemade spam – which thankfully bore little resemblance to its canned counterpart – soaked up a funky, acidic sauce that also contained sugar snap peas and fermented brussels sprouts. The eclectic combination of ingredients kept me going back for another spicy, vinegary bite.
“Bag” of crisps and eggs with malt vinegar powder
The biggest surprise, though, was the first bite of the meal, which was listed on the menu as “Bag” of Crisps and Eggs. The seemingly unnecessary quotation marks actually hinted at the unconventional tableside preparation: the server arrived with a small brown bag full of chips and a soft-poached egg in a separate container; he then slid the egg into the bag, shook the bag vigorously, and poured the bag’s contents out onto a plate. What looked like just a pile of soggy, glossy potato chips turned out to be incredibly delicious. Somehow, the mixture of egg, potato, and zingy malt vinegar powder made the not-so-crispy texture work in the dish’s favor.
The details:Bottlefork, 441 N. Clark St., Chicago.
Waffle cone with brambleberry crisp ice cream, Bangkok peanut ice cream, and salty graham gravel
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Based in Columbus, Ohio, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams is one of the most highly regarded artisanal ice cream brands in the country. Although the Chicago scoop shop has been open on Southport since last fall, I hadn’t visited until this past weekend – but what better day than the Fourth of July to partake in the rich American tradition of ice-cream eating? It was pretty thrilling to see all the creative, seasonal varieties I’d long admired in pints to instead be available for sampling, with an employee eager to describe the nuances of each flavor in nearly the same kind of detail that a sommelier would use in describing a wine. I was very pleased with the two flavors I chose for my waffle cone: the brambleberry crisp was laced with juicy blackberry jam and oat streusel, while the Bangkok peanut mimicked savory pad Thai and curry via accents of toasted coconut and cayenne. Together, they formed a complex, frozen version of a peanut butter and jelly, topped off with salty graham gravel for even more crunch. Jeni’s has officially joined Black Dog Gelato atop of my list of favorite creamy treats.
Siberian Osetra caviar with black garlic, eggplant, and chive flowers; pairing: 2002 Pierre Moncuit Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: This post is a little overdue, since the occasion for this special meal was Father’s Day, but the stunning presentations and nuanced flavors are still fresh in my mind. We opted for the tasting menu with wine pairings and thus were able to see the full range of technique from Chef Ryan McCaskey.
Mini lobster rolls on a bed of moss
We began with several snacks, including truly adorable miniature lobster rolls whose buns were made of pâte à choux (the foundation for cream puffs, and a staple of any pastry school curriculum). It was also a fun way of alluding to the full-size lobster rolls for which Acadia is lauded. Before we transitioned into the first course, Chef came out to our table to deliver their signature biscuits with butter and sea salt. He greeted us warmly, and also settled a friendly dispute between my dad and me over the origin of the flatware (I was right; it was French!). Soon after, the first course appeared in a shimmering bowl, complete with a pearl spoon that matched the opalescent oyster shell in the center. Hints of black garlic, chive, and eggplant added bite and depth to the salty caviar within the shell. After seeing plating that was so beautifully in tune with the glitzy champagne-and-caviar theme, we knew we were in for a treat.
Yellow fin tuna with smoked lardo, toasted hijiki mayonnaise, and turnip dashi
The yellowfin tuna course arrived as what was essentially a deconstructed spicy tuna roll, if you subtracted the rice and added miso soup. Light and clean, it was a nice segue into the vegetable course that followed. That dish showcased asparagus – purple, green, white, and French varieties – with richness from truffle and egg yolk, plus an incredibly crisp Italian white wine to go with it.
Asparagus with green sorrel, chamomile, truffle, egg yolk, and brioche; pairing: 2013 Cascina Chicco, Anterisio, Arneis, Roero, Piedmont, ItalyLobster cappuccino with sherry bisque, chanterelle, and truffle espuma; pairing: 2012 Sans Liege “Cotes-du-Coast,” Rhone-style blend, Central Coast, California
The lobster cappuccino was one of my favorite courses, its luxurious foam and umami-rich broth served in a dainty teacup. This course also had the most interesting white wine pairing of the evening: a Rhone-style California blend with a round sweetness that was a perfect counterpart to the sherry and lobster. Another seafood standout was the lubina, a mild whitefish joined by clams, fennel, and pungent chorizo powder for a bouillabaisse effect.
Lubina with canellini bean, manila clam, castelvertrano olive, fennel, and catalan broth; pairing: 2012 Pedres “Thilbas,” Vermentino di Gallura, Sardinia, ItalyBone marrow with peeky toe crab, veal cheeks, and textures; pairing: 2011 Wineck-Schlossberg, Grand Cru Riesling, Alsace, France
I was excited to see a bone marrow course, and was impressed by how it stood out from other marrow preparations I’ve had in the past. Served in a pristine white bone, the dish was a study in sharply contrasting layers: jerky-like veal at the bottom, shredded crab in the middle, and fatty marrow on top. We then paused for a dense, herb-flecked miniature waffle as another intermezzo.
Herb waffles with butter, sea salt, and chive blossomsSmoked ribeye with pickled wild onion, green garlic, morel condiment, and beef jus; pairing: 2008 Andrew Will, “Champoux Vineyard,” Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington
By the time we got to the beef course, the petite portion of smoked ribeye (cooked to a flawless medium-rare) was as satisfying as a full meal of steak and potatoes. This dish felt the most classic, even down to the fantastic Cabernet pairing. After the steak, I was still eagerly anticipating the foie gras course, since I ate the best foie of my life on my only other visit to Acadia nearly six months earlier. While I do have to admit I liked January’s preparation better overall, this one struck the same kind of balance between the foie and an array of aromatic (celery and fennel), fruity (strawberry and rhubarb), and sweet (white chocolate) accompaniments, paired with bitter aperol to cut through all the sweetness.
Foie gras torchon with celery, white chocolate, strawberry, rhubarb, fennel, and black olive; pairing: Aperol SpritzMiel with citrus, honey, and huckleberry; pairing: 2007 Domaine de L’Ancienne Cure, Monbazillac, France
Finally, it was on to the desserts. A dome of not-too-sweet Japanese cheesecake with honey and berries was creamy and citrusy, while a nutty profiterole with banana and chocolate became even warmer and more comforting as I sipped the cinnamon-leaning amaro paired with it. All in all, one of my favorite meals in Chicago so far, and well worth keeping in mind for any special occasion.
Profiterole with black walnut, banana, and hot chocolate; pairing: Cardamaro, Amaro, Italy
The details: Acadia, 1639 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago.
Once you order this off-menu beverage that combines espresso and milk in perfect balance, you’ll never go back (and, to be honest, this is also what you order if you want to impress a barista!). It was perfect to sip slowly as I lost myself in a great book.
Cortado on the sidewalk patio, accompanied by my latest read, “The Goldfinch”
Dark Matter Chocolate City draft iced coffee, Longman & Eagle
While there’s no actual chocolate in this draft iced coffee, the cocoa notes and bold, fruity complexity make it the dreamiest of morning beverages, especially outside on the patio with a splash of cream.
Dark Matter Chocolate City draft iced coffee (on the patio, of course!)
Grilled octopus fettunta with favetta, grapefruit, and preserved lemon
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Nico has been near the top of my list since it opened late last year, having already earned local and national accolades that are now becoming routine for Paul Kahan’s restaurants. We began the evening on the patio facing bustling Rush Street and snacked on a grilled octopus fettunta (Nico’s term for grilled bread with toppings, much like bruschetta) that was bejeweled by grapefruit and preserved lemon for double the acidity. It was lovely alongside my Venus in Furs cocktail, smoky and refreshing on such a muggy evening.
Venus in Furs cocktail with aperol, mezcal, velvet falernum, lime juice, and campari, on the Nico patio
Before we knew it, a thunderstorm had set in and we were quickly moved inside to the bar. It wasn’t long before a pristine whole branzino arrived, salt-crusted and studded with tender forest mushrooms and sweet zante currants. The fish was buttery and perfectly flaky, although it’s worth noting that Gold Coast prices make it expensive enough to be more of a special-occasion centerpiece. And on the side, a tangle of grilled ramps reminded me why their short season is so cherished. Their mild onion flavor melted beautifully into the salt-cod crema, with crunch from almonds and lingering char from the grill.
Salt-crusted branzino with forest mushrooms and zante currants; grilled ramps with salt cod crema and almonds
And we couldn’t skip dessert – not when pastry chef Amanda Rockman is hailed as one of the city’s best and is responsible for such masterpieces as Balena’s gelato sundaes. While I loved the affogato – espresso poured over cardamom-sweet cream gelato for a “dirty chai” effect – I was even more impressed by the Nico torte. It was like eating all the best lemon desserts at the same time: the crusty bottom of the cake with lemon filling soaked inside evoked a lemon bar, but together with the poppyseed gelato, it transformed into a muffin; add in the pickled blueberries and lemon curd on the plate, and it became a summer parfait. The Nico torte changes seasonally, so I’ll have to return for more variations.
Nico torte with lemon, pickled blueberry, ginger, and citrus poppyseed gelato
The details:Nico Osteria, 1015 N. Rush St., Chicago.
Spring pea tart with fromage blanc mousse, garden salad, and almond cracker
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Spring peas rank right up there with ramps on the list of spring ingredients I look forward to most, so I jumped at the chance to eat them in tart form on my first visit to The Dawson in River West. The frosty tart layered almond, fromage blanc, and peas into a creamy orb, brightened up by lemon and mint. It was topped with more spring favorites – fava beans, radish, pea shoots – to form a stunningly fresh starter.
First Base cocktail with Reyka vodka, white port, white grape, St. Germain, Bittermens Boston Bittahs, and lemon
To drink, I had the First Base, one of the newest additions to the cocktail menu. I rarely order drinks made with vodka, but there was something about the combination of port, St. Germain, and white grape that intrigued me. The drink was crisp, clean, and a little sweet, reminiscent of a boozy frozen grape. It paired well with the chilled tart. The Dawson also boasts a large enclosed patio, with wooden trellises, intricate tile, and even a fireplace centerpiece. Sadly, however, the weather didn’t cooperate, so we had to gaze longingly through the windows. I’ll definitely be back on a warmer evening to nab a seat out there.
The details:The Dawson, 730 W. Grand Ave., Chicago.
Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.
My waterfront view of the Bay Bridge while happily savoring my market breakfast
I took a quick trip to Northern California this past weekend for a friend’s wedding in the Sonoma Valley. The venue, Cline Cellars, was idyllic wine country at its finest, with an abundance of Californian bites and excellent wine straight from the source. However, this post is about the most food-focused part of my weekend: a morning spent at San Francisco’s iconic Ferry Building. Between the indoor artisanal food vendors and the outdoor farmers market stalls that ensconced the building, I was one-hundred percent in my element. As luscious produce and gourmet goods stretched before me in every direction, I practically skipped from row to row, barely able to keep myself from trying one of everything. Below is the best of my market bounty.
Albacore tuna sandwich with roasted golden beets, toasted walnuts, and pickled onion from San Francisco Lox Sandwich at Cap’n Mike’s Holy SmokeApache apricots and Brooks cherries, both incredibly tasty organic varieties from Frog Hollow Farm that I snacked on the rest of the weekendCinnamon bun biscuit (yes, it was as good as it sounds) from Biscuit Bender‘s adorably decorated stall inside the buildingCan’t leave the Ferry Building without a café au lait from Blue Bottle Coffee Co., whose lines often snake around the marketA view of the market stalls and live music from the back of the building
The details:Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, held Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 1 Ferry Building, San Francisco.
