Category: Travel Eats

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Three delicious days in Seattle

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Salmon omakase, Shiro's Sushi
Nigiri of salmon three ways during omakase at the Shiro’s Sushi counter

As someone who adores all forms of seafood but has always lived in a land-locked state, I’ve long wanted to check out Seattle’s dining scene. I visited last week and packed three sunny (!!!) days with oysters, coffee, and everything else I’d heard were Seattle specialties. Before I proceed any further, I am happy to report that I ate the best sushi of my life on this trip. My local dining companion put Shiro’s Sushi at the top of our must-eat list; Shiro was a “disciple” of Jiro, as in Jiro Dreams of Sushi, and had built something of an institution. We arrived before it opened and stood in line. Two hours and 40 minutes later, we were finally seated at the counter and settled in for omakase, or “chef’s choice.” On it went: red snapper, three cuts of salmon, four cuts of tuna, geoduck (my first time eating it!), king crab leg, octopus, eel that I can only describe as ethereal…and more. The fish was impossibly fresh and masterfully prepared, and the whole experience felt personal and special.

Grilled sardines, the Walrus and the Carpenter
Grilled sardines from the Walrus and the Carpenter
Hama Hama and Blue Pool oysters, the Walrus and the Carpenter
Hama Hama and Blue Pool oysters from the Walrus and the Carpenter

Our other spectacular meal also required a nearly two-hour wait, but as with Shiro’s, it was undoubtedly worth it. The Walrus and the Carpenter is run by Renee Erickson, whose cookbook I received as a Christmas gift from my roommate in anticipation of our trip. Her elegant, contemporary dishes were the ideal way to celebrate the fruits of the sea that are so plentiful in that area. The oysters I tried were exceptional, as were all the other small plates, but the standout sea creatures for me were the grilled sardines. The sardines’ texture was completely incredible, and I couldn’t get over how well the walnut-parsley-shallot topping married with the fish.

Another memorable stop was at Toulouse Petit, a New Orleans-inspired Cajun restaurant that claims to have the “best happy hour menu in the nation.” Both the barbecued shrimp New Orleans and the crawfish beignets with hot pepper jelly were delicious, and just the kind of food to pair with Big Easy-style cocktails. And of course, I couldn’t leave Seattle without a visit to Pike Place Market, whose size and spectacle was even more overwhelming than I expected. After tastes at a few of the fish vendors, I settled on a sizable strip of smoked salmon that was conveniently threaded onto a stick. I savored it as long as possible.

Crawfish beignets and barbecued New Orleans shrimp, Toulouse Petit
Crawfish beignets and barbecued New Orleans shrimp from Toulouse Petit’s happy hour
Smoked salmon stick, City Fish Co. at Pike Place Market
Smoked salmon on a stick from City Fish Co. at Pike Place Market

Brunch gets its own section, because both the morning meals I had were noteworthy in entirely different ways. I absolutely loved the format at Joule: not only was there a standard menu of creative, Korean-influenced dishes, but the meal also included unlimited trips to an upscale buffet at the front of the restaurant whose theme rotated on a monthly basis – February was Cajun, in honor of Mardi Gras. My favorite bite at Joule was also the most indulgent: a sesame waffle with chicken fried steak (everyone else should take note of this excellent variation on chicken and waffles) and smoked maple syrup. In contrast, the best parts of brunch at Tallulah’s were on the lighter side. My bowl of red quinoa, smoked salmon, avocado, pickled vegetables, greens, and a soft-poached egg was the kind of fresh, energizing breakfast I could eat every day, and the blood orange marmalade on nutty Macrina wheat toast was also lovely in its simplicity.

Chicken fried steak and waffles, Joule
Chicken fried steak and waffles from brunch at Joule
Macrina toast with blood orange marmalade from brunch at Tallulah's
Macrina toast with blood orange marmalade from brunch at Tallulah’s
Red quinoa bowl, Tallulah's
Red quinoa and smoked salmon bowl from brunch at Tallulah’s

I was just as impressed by Seattle’s beverages, caffeinated and alcoholic alike. The one I was most eager to try was the Dark & Stormy at Rachel’s Ginger Beer, and once I found out you could add vanilla soft serve to make it a float, I was basically in ginger-laced heaven. At local brewery Fremont Brewing, I was more than content with my Dark Star imperial oatmeal stout (and the fact that it was warm enough to drink it outside). Barnacle, adjacent to the Walrus and the Carpenter, was where we spent most of our time waiting for our table, and I loved that a seat at the sleek copper bar also earned you a bowl of Lay’s Classic potato chips to snack on. I’ve been on a black walnut kick lately, so Barnacle’s nocino old fashioned with calvados, walnut liqueur, and nocino amaro was just the kind of strong, silky cocktail I wanted. At Joule, my Sweet Freedom brunch cocktail held a citrusy mix of lime, blood orange and elderflower liqueurs, and makoli – the same fermented Korean rice wine I enjoyed so much at Parachute last fall. I also drank my fair share of coffee and espresso, and it was all top-notch.

Dark & stormy float from Rachel's Ginger Beer
Dark & stormy float from Rachel’s Ginger Beer
Dark Star imperial oatmeal stout, Fremont Brewing
Dark Star imperial oatmeal stout from Fremont Brewing
Nocino old fashioned, Barnacle
Nocino old fashioned from Barnacle
Sweet Freedom cocktail, Joule
Sweet Freedom cocktail from brunch at Joule
Sumatra pourover coffee, Victrola Coffee
Sumatra pourover from Victrola Coffee
Rose, Starbucks
Couldn’t resist the novelty of a glass of wine at ubiquitous Starbucks
Soy latte with "velvet foam" from Uptown Espresso
Soy latte with “velvet foam” from Uptown Espresso

And below are even more miscellaneous best bites from what was surely one of my most delicious trips ever.

Fudge brownie chunk and earl gray ice cream, Molly Moon's
Fudge brownie chunk ice cream with vanilla bean caramel and earl gray ice cream with lemon curd from Molly Moon’s
Spam slider and Pass-O Guava Nectar Hawaiian Sun drink from Marination Station
Spam slider and Pass-O Guava Nectar Hawaiian Sun drink from Marination Station
Beecher's herbed cheese curds
Herbed cheese curds from Beecher’s at Pike Place Market
Cinnamon sugar donuts, Daily Dozen
Cinnamon sugar donuts from Daily Dozen at Pike Place Market

The details: Shiro’s Sushi, 2401 2nd Ave.; The Walrus and the Carpenter and Barnacle, both 4743 Ballard Ave. NW; Toulouse Petit, 601 Queen Anne Ave. N; City Fish Co. at Pike Place Market, 1535 Pike Pl.; Joule, 3506 Stone Way N; Tallulah’s, 550 19th Ave. E; Rachel’s Ginger Beer at Pike Place Market, 1530 Post Alley; Fremont Brewing, 1050 N 34th St.; Victrola Coffee, 310 E. Pike; Uptown Espresso, 525 Queen Anne Ave. N; Molly Moon’s Homemade Ice Cream, 917 E. Pine St.; Marination Station, 1412 Harvard Ave.; Beecher’s Handmade Cheese at Pike Place Market, 1600 Pike Pl.; Daily Dozen Doughnuts at Pike Place Market, 93 Pike St. (all Seattle).

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: a week in tropical Aruba

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

I spent the week before Thanksgiving on vacation in Aruba, a Dutch island located just north of Venezuela. The pristine beaches and sunset views were spectacular, but I was also impressed with the cuisine, which blended Caribbean, South American, and Dutch influences into its own mélange of flavors. My travel companion and I tasted both traditional and modern versions of classic Aruban dishes, plus a slew of fresh seafood and tropical cocktails, all proving why the country’s slogan is “One Happy Island.”

The most special dining experience of the week was an 8-course tasting at The Kitchen Table by White, a 16-seat kitchen counter–style restaurant opened 3 months ago by Urvin Croes. Chef Urvin’s original restaurant, White Modern Cuisine, was among the first to bring modernist cooking (à la Grant Achatz of Alinea) to Aruba; he opened this second restaurant in order to offer a more intimate and extensive tasting experience with a monthly changing menu. Over a leisurely few hours, we tasted course after course that employed truly creative cooking methods and flavor combinations. Among them was a modern take on keshi yena, one of Aruba’s most traditional dishes: instead of chunks of chicken stewed with fruit and nuts and topped with flame-broiled Dutch gouda cheese (which we tasted later in the week), it became a chicken roulade beneath elegantly constructed layers of gouda and crackers in many forms. In the same way, a “steak basket,” common street food fare in Aruba, was updated to include fries buried in a fascinatingly delicious powdered peanut sauce. I was blown away by how well the complex array of components harmonized in each beautifully plated dish, especially in the four shown below.

Oyster soup, The Kitchen Table by White
“Sopi Oyster”: Aruban oyster soup served with scallops tartar, celery rings, carrots sour, onion gel, Madame Jeanette pepper parfait, pickled okra, and spiced chips, The Kitchen Table by White
Jerked cobia, The Kitchen Table by White
“Jerked Cobia”: Jerked cobia served with curry popcorn, mini corn, curry coconut powder, plantains, pickled yellow squash, pickled chayote, moringa flowers, polenta, pumpkin, mango chutney, and a lemongrass and saffron sauce, The Kitchen Table by White
Chef Urvin Croes, The Kitchen Table by White
Chef Urvin Croes preparing food in the open kitchen during dinner
Brined, smoked duck breast, The Kitchen Table by White
“Pato Humà”: Brined, then smoked duck breast served with pickled dragonfruit, red beets, radish, tomato compote, pickled onions, roasted bell pepper, and a spicy creole sauce, The Kitchen Table by White
Dessert, The Kitchen Table by White
“Drigidèk cu Koffie”: Caribbean spiced cake served with mocha panna cotta, coffee crumble, espresso gel, dark chocolate, coco and white chocolate parfait, coconut gel, and a cappuccino foam, The Kitchen Table by White

And then there was the seafood. Whether it was vanilla-scented scallops at sunset with my toes in the sand or richly spiced caribbean shrimp in a lush backyard garden, I enjoyed it all. Grouper was especially prevalent – my favorite version featured a crunchy almond crust and creamy spinach sauce that the restaurant claimed had been imitated-but-never-duplicated since the dish’s debut in 1999.

Vanilla-skewered scallops, Barefoot
Vanilla bean-skewered scallops with caramelized Belgian endive and saffron mayonnaise and bottle of Veramonte sauvignon blanc from Casablanca Valley in Chile, Barefoot
Almond grouper, Madame Janette
Grouper filet in a coat of almonds served with a creamed spinach sauce and scalloped potatoes, Madame Janette
West Indies shrimp, Papiamento
West Indies caribbean shrimp in a curried coconut milk sauce with sweet potato puree and okra, Papiamento
Mai tai, Hadicurari
Mai tai on the first night, which came alongside red snapper, mashed potatoes, and vegetables, Hadicurari

Standout dishes also extended beyond seafood. At Smokey Joe’s, I scarfed down half a rack of Caribbean-style ribs, which the menu touted as award-winning, and also snacked on pastechies, an empanada-like local specialty. Salt and Pepper, a quaint diner-style restaurant with thousands of namesake shakers adorning its walls, was a great spot for an egg wrap with ham and gouda. We even ate well at sea: while aboard the Black Pearl for a snorkeling sunset sail, we feasted on gouda-tomato sandwiches and grilled cheese (so yes, Dutch gouda is everywhere in Aruba).

Classic recipe ribs and Pink Iguana drink, Smokey Joe's
Half rack of “original recipe” ribs with island slaw and home fries, and Pink Iguana drink with light rum, crushed strawberries, pineapple juice, and coconut cream, Smokey Joe’s
Breakfast tortilla wrap, Salt and Pepper
Breakfast tortilla wrap with ham and gouda and a side of homefries, Salt and Pepper
Gouda-tomato sandwich aboard the Black Pearl
Gouda-tomato sandwich aboard the Black Pearl
Black Pearl "boat special" drinkBlack Pearl "boat special" drink
Black Pearl “boat special” with 5 kinds of tropical juices and 3 kinds of liquor

I had a few favorite treats as well. Melk Chocolade Pasta, a Dutch chocolate spread we picked up at the grocery store, made a perfect snack when slathered onto pita chips. At the swim-up bar, I was especially fond of the Bird of Paradise, brightly colored with mango and blue curaçao, and the Slippery Monkey, a dessert-like blend of coffee liqueur, Caribbean coco rum, Irish cream, banana liqueur, banana puree, chocolate swirl, and a dark rum garnish. The best dessert of the week, though, was a classic chocolate soufflé boosted by roasted pumpkin seed ice cream, blueberry sauce, almonds, and a mountain of whipped cream.

Chocolate souffle, Madame Janette
Chocolate soufflé served with roasted pumpkin seed ice cream, blueberry sauce, almonds, and whipped cream, Madame Janette

Snack of Melk Dutch chocolate spread and pita chips
Snack of Melk dutch chocolate spread and pita chips

Bird of Paradise cocktail, Seaworthy's Pool Bar at Marriott's Aruba Surf Club
Bird of Paradise cocktail with banana liqueur, coconut rum, mango puree, and Blue Curacao from Seaworthy’s, the swim-up pool bar

The details: Hadicurari, J.E. Yrasquin Boulevard 96; Smokey Joe’s, Juan E. Irausquin Blvd. 87; Barefoot, L.G. Smith Boulevard 1; The Kitchen Table by White, J.E. Irausquin Boulevard 266; Salt & Pepper, J.E. Irausquin Blvd. 370-A; Black Pearl sailing trip; Madame Janette, Cunucu Abou 37; Papiamento, Washington 61 Noord; Seaworthy’s Pool Bar/Captain’s Galley at Marriott’s Aruba Surf Club, 103 L. G. Smith Boulevard (all Aruba).

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: a fun-filled tasting at Travail Kitchen & Amusements, plus other fall flavors in Minneapolis

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

The last of fall foliage in Minneapolis
Caught the last weeks of fall foliage in Minneapolis

I spent last weekend in Minneapolis to visit close friends and soak in the last little bit of fall foliage. I’ve been to Minneapolis a few times before, but I was more impressed by the food this time around than ever before.

This was in large part because of my dinner at Travail Kitchen & Amusements on Friday night. It was unlike any tasting menu experience I’ve ever had: playful, interactive, a little off-the-wall – but none of the pageantry came at the expense of each dish’s technique and flavor. Across 16-plus whimsical courses, we didn’t just taste the food, but instead took part in more of a multi-sensory experience. For the pasta course, a cartoonish song about pasta blared from the speakers as the staff marched around to the tables, each adding one component until the dish was fully plated. Instead of coming to the table fully assembled, the mini foie gras burger served as the means for an interactive tour of the open kitchen in the middle of the restaurant, with diners snaking through each station until the burgers had all their toppings. And with foie gras mousse, slaw, and a french fry on top, it was probably the best slider I’ve ever had.

Mini foie gras burger, Travail Kitchen and Amusements
Mini foie gras burger assembled step-by-step during an interactive kitchen tour, Travail Kitchen and Amusements

As you can see in the video below, some courses required a little extra effort to eat, though now I can say that I’ve eaten speck (a cured ham like prosciutto) that was dangling from a hook!

The chefs at Travail played around with scent and temperature, too. For the steak courses, a miniature cast iron skillet with fresh rosemary atop smoldering charcoal came to the table first, adding a woodsy depth to the beef and brussels sprouts on the plate. As a palate cleanser before dessert, we were each served a spoonful of raspberry pop rocks straight out of a bath in liquid nitrogen, with firm instructions to “keep them moving on your tongue.” I admit I moved my whole body around as I ate mine, trying to make sure they didn’t stay in one place as chilly vapor poured out of my nose and mouth.

Rosemary coals, Travail Kitchen & Amusements
Rosemary and hot coals as (inedible) scent pairing for the steak course below, Travail Kitchen & Amusements
Steak and brussels sprouts, Travail Kitchen & Amusements
Filet with red cabbage puree, baby bok choy, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and sweetbread sausage, Travail Kitchen & Amusements
Raspberry pop rocks in liquid nitrogen, Travail Kitchen & Amusements
Raspberry pop rocks in liquid nitrogen, Travail Kitchen & Amusements

The next morning, I ate the best autumnal breakfast dish I’ve had all season: a savory waffle at Birchwood Cafe. The pumpkin waffle itself had incredible texture from the millet and gruyere cheese, and the accompaniments added all the sweet and salty notes I needed. And I wasn’t disappointed with my choice to pair it with a sidecar of sweet potato ale, for an extra touch of fall flavor. Later that afternoon, we indulged in Sebastian Joe’s ice cream, and I was especially wooed by my scoop of pumpkin, which was rich with warm spices.

Savory waffle and sweet potato ale, Birchwood Cafe
Pumpkin, millet, and gruyere waffle with red onion jam, apple cinnamon butter, bacon lardons, sunny side up egg, Wood’s maple syrup, powdered sugar, and spicy pepitas, and beer pairing of Indeed Sweet Yamma Jamma sweet potato ale, Birchwood Cafe
Pumpkin and turtle latte ice cream, Sebastian Joe's
Scoops of pumpkin and turtle latte ice cream, Sebastian Joe’s

The Bachelor Farmer, another Minneapolis favorite, pays homage to Minnesota’s Nordic roots through more elevated versions of traditional fare. While we sampled several dishes, it was the delicious board of various pates, pickles, and toast (served on the side in a gorgeous metal stand) that stayed with me the most. We wrapped up the weekend at French Meadow Bakery & Cafe, which made me wish that breakfast quesadillas made with black beans and fluffy eggs were on more menus in Chicago.

Groaning board, The Bachelor Farmer
Groaning board with country pate, headcheese, chicken salad, chicken liver mousse, pork fat pate, pickles, mustard, and toast, The Bachelor Farmer
Breakfast quesadilla, French Meadow Bakery & Cafe
Breakfast quesadilla with scrambled eggs, black beans, cheddar, spinach, house-made guacamole, chipotle sour cream, sprouted tortilla, and house-made salsa, French Meadow Bakery & Cafe

The details: Travail Kitchen & Amusements, 4124 W Broadway Ave. in Robbinsdale; Birchwood Cafe, 3311 E 25th St. in Minneapolis; Sebastian Joe’s, 1007 Franklin Ave. S in Minneapolis; The Bachelor Farmer, 50 N 2nd Ave. in Minneapolis; French Meadow Bakery & Cafe, 1662 Grand Ave. in St. Paul.

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: A few summer bites in Washington, DC

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Smoked fish plate, Duke's Grocery
Smoked fish plate with smoked salmon, smoked whitefish, smoked herring, housemade trout rilettes, accompanied by capers, shallot, lemon-herb salad, pickled cucumbers, and buttered toast, Duke’s Grocery

I spent some time with friends in Washington, DC, last week, and while I didn’t get to fit in any overly elaborate meals, I still emerged with a few favorite bites from the nation’s capital. The first came at Duke’s Grocery in Dupont Circle, a café that takes its inspiration from the cuisine of East London. We ordered several of the seasonal, daily-varying dishes to share over a leisurely late lunch on the front patio. I liked everything, but the best part of our umbrella-shaded feast was the colorful fish plate, featuring four different kinds of smoked fish to layer onto toast with pleasantly mild pickles, capers, and a squeeze of lemon.

I started another morning at Penn Quarter’s Red Apron Butcher to try a tigelle, a breakfast item that had piqued my interest before the trip. The tigelle itself was a pressed Italian flatbread that was like a crispy English muffin, but denser and more flavorful. Stuffed between its two halves was spicy pimento cheese, tasso ham, and a hefty portion of egg. It was a little unwieldy at times, with egg and cheese oozing over the sides, but also the most memorable, delicious breakfast sandwich I’ve eaten lately. Plus, how can you not love the flower design that’s griddled into it?

Southern Comfort tigelle, Red Apron Butcher
Southern Comfort tigelle with tasso ham, egg, and spicy pimento cheese, Red Apron Butcher
Peanut butter bacon pop tart, Ted's Bulletin
Peanut butter + bacon pop tart (and a glass of milk), Ted’s Bulletin

After hearing my friends rave about Ted’s Bulletin, I was happy to stop by one evening to snag one of their popular pastries for dessert. And once I saw that a peanut butter and bacon pop tart was one of my options, I didn’t need to consider anything else. It stayed true to the texture of a real pop tart, but with a decadent, sweet-and-savory twist, and went wonderfully with a glass of milk.

Finally, I knew I didn’t want to leave DC without visiting a food truck, as the scene there is much more established and diverse than it is in Chicago. When I got to Farragut Square around lunchtime, there were at least a dozen different trucks, slinging everything from Indonesian, Ethiopian, and Cajun cuisines to crepes, pies, bubble tea, and grilled cheese. After making the rounds, I decided to go with a Venezuelan arepa from Arepa Zone, whose healthy line indicated that the piping hot corn pockets were worth it. I loved the creamy chicken-avocado salad filling, and the watermelon salad on the side was a refreshing, summery touch.

Sifrina arepa, Arepa Zone truck
Sifrina arepa with chicken-avocado salad and shredded yellow cheese, Arepa Zone truck
Arepa Zone truck, DC
Arepa Zone truck parked along Farragut Square

The details: Duke’s Grocery, 1513 17th Street NW; Ted’s Bulletin, 505 8th Street SE; Red Apron Butcher, 709 D Street SW; Arepa Zone, Farragut Square and other varying locations (all addresses in Washington, DC).

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, San Francisco

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Bay Bridge, San Francisco
My waterfront view of the Bay Bridge while happily savoring my market breakfast

I took a quick trip to Northern California this past weekend for a friend’s wedding in the Sonoma Valley. The venue, Cline Cellars, was idyllic wine country at its finest, with an abundance of Californian bites and excellent wine straight from the source. However, this post is about the most food-focused part of my weekend: a morning spent at San Francisco’s iconic Ferry Building. Between the indoor artisanal food vendors and the outdoor farmers market stalls that ensconced the building, I was one-hundred percent in my element. As luscious produce and gourmet goods stretched before me in every direction, I practically skipped from row to row, barely able to keep myself from trying one of everything. Below is the best of my market bounty.

Albacore tuna sandwich, Ferry Building Farmers Market
Albacore tuna sandwich with roasted golden beets, toasted walnuts, and pickled onion from San Francisco Lox Sandwich at Cap’n Mike’s Holy Smoke
Apache apricots and Brooks cherries, Frog Hollow Farm
Apache apricots and Brooks cherries, both incredibly tasty organic varieties from Frog Hollow Farm that I snacked on the rest of the weekend
Cinnamon bun biscuit, Biscuit Bender
Cinnamon bun biscuit (yes, it was as good as it sounds) from Biscuit Bender‘s adorably decorated stall inside the building
Can't leave the Ferry Building without Blue Bottle coffee
Can’t leave the Ferry Building without a café au lait from Blue Bottle Coffee Co., whose lines often snake around the market
A view of the Ferry Building Farmers Market from the back
A view of the market stalls and live music from the back of the building

The details: Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, held Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 1 Ferry Building, San Francisco.

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Travel Eats: A whirlwind weekend in Philly

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Philly cheese steak with onions and Cheez Whiz, Pat's
Philly cheese steak with onions and Cheez Whiz, Pat’s

I spent 48 hours in Philadelphia for the bachelorette party of a dear friend I’ve known since preschool who now lives there. Our group managed to fit in a surprisingly wide range of cuisine in a short amount of time – starting, of course, with a classic Philly cheese steak. Two of the most famous steak places sit right across the street from each other in South Philly: Pat’s King of Steaks and Geno’s Steaks. We went with Pat’s, and it was a quintessential no-nonsense sandwich joint. I ordered my steak “wit” (with onions), and with neon-yellow Cheez Whiz (seemingly the most popular option). It was drier than I expected, although I guess I’m just used to Italian beef, and did truly showcase meat, cheese, and bread in their purest, no-frills form. I also added a few of the house peppers and hot sauce, but only to one side, as they did overpower the steak a bit. We also stopped nearby for gelati from Rita’s, a treat that I’d remembered from a summer on the Jersey Shore. It was half mango Italian ice and half vanilla custard, which gave it a well-balanced Creamsicle effect.

Mango gelati, Rita's
Mango gelati with Italian ice and frozen custard, Rita’s

For brunch, it was The Dandelion, a British pub-style eatery filled with charming details. A citrusy pitcher of Pimm’s cup was an exceedingly refreshing way to start – it should really be offered on more brunch cocktail menus. I really loved my poached eggs with bubbles and squeak, a traditional hash from across the pond that’s made with veggies, cabbage, and potatoes. What really made the dish was the housemade steak sauce, basically a thicker version of worcestershire sauce that made the eggs and hash incredibly savory. We also shared the scotch pancakes, which hit all the right maple-apple-cinnamon notes.

Poached eggs with bubble & squeak, plus hollandaise and housemade steak sauce, The Dandelion
Poached eggs with bubble & squeak, plus hollandaise and housemade steak sauce, The Dandelion
Pitcher of Pimm's cup as a brunch cocktail at The Dandelion
Pitcher of Pimm’s cup with cucumber, orange, lemon, and strawberry as a brunch cocktail at The Dandelion
Scotch pancakes with maple apples and cinnamon cream, The Dandelion
Scotch pancakes with maple apples and cinnamon cream, The Dandelion
The Dandelion's charming exterior
The Dandelion’s charming exterior

We spent one evening in Chinatown, first noshing on creative sushi and okonomiyaki (seafood pancake) at Yakitori Boy. When we finished, instead of venturing upstairs to the two floors of karaoke that were already in high demand, we rounded the corner to what was our most intriguing destination. A buzzed-about speakeasy called Hop Sing Laundromat lies hidden behind an unmarked door that’s guarded by a man that I later learned was known as Lee. He asked us what we were there for and who had told us about the place (we may or may not have name-dropped a certain celebrity chef), and finally made it in inside. Lee launched into the house rules: primarily, no photos or videos of any kind, and no phone calls except in the lobby area; if any rule was broken, we’d be kicked out immediately. By the time he was done with his spiel, we were sufficiently terrified to disobey him, and were ready for our table. The space was rich and cozy, and I took it in all the more knowing that it couldn’t be documented. I also had one of the most interesting cocktails I’ve ever had: the Montana Payback, with applejack brandy, rum, velvet falernum, lime juice, muddled strawberries, Thai chili, and cream, topped with rose petals. It was fruit-forward and complex, and the chili left my lips tingling. This place is absolutely worth a visit if you’re ever in the area.

Secret door to Hop Sing Laundromat speakeasy (shhhh!)
Proprietor Lee standing behind the secret door to Hop Sing Laundromat speakeasy (shhhh!)
Sushi rolls, Yakitori Boy
Sushi rolls, Yakitori Boy

Our other big meal was at Philly’s popular Oyster House. We’d called in advance to partake in the Dump Dinner, a clam bake-esque feast of Maine lobster (a half-lobster per person), steamed clams, mussels, merguez sausage, kale, and new potatoes, all in a pot, plus fries and slaw on the side. With pages from the Sunday New York Times covering the table and lobster bibs around our necks, we dug in for a messy, but completely delicious seafood extravaganza. While it’s tough to beat dunking lobster claw meat into melted butter, I also appreciated the contrast of the wilted kale and merguez sausage that had soaked up all the shellfish liquid.

Dump Dinner place setting, complete with lobster bib, at Oyster House
Dump Dinner place setting, complete with lobster bib, at Oyster House
Clambake–style "Dump Dinner" with steamed clams, mussels, Maine lobsters, merguez sausage, kale, potatoes, fries, and slaw
“Dump Dinner” with steamed clams, mussels, Maine lobsters, merguez sausage, kale, potatoes, fries, and slaw

The details: Pat’s, 1237 E. Passyunk Ave.; Rita’s, 239 South St.; Yakitori Boy, 211 N. 11th St.; Hop Sing Laundromat, 1029 Race St.; The Dandelion, 124 S. 18th St.; Oyster House, 1516 Sansom St. (all Philadelphia).

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Best sweet bites from 4 days in NYC

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Black & white cookies, Lenny's
Black & white cookies, Lenny’s

No trip to New York is complete without indulging my sweet tooth. I couldn’t even make it 12 hours before I snatched up a jumbo black and white cookie from Lenny’s. This particular cookie was my vice when I lived there, and is the standard to which I compare all other black and white cookies (I try them pretty much whenever I can find them in Chicago or when I’m traveling). No other has ever measured up. The base is golden and spongy, with a thick coating of vanilla and chocolate glaze – the most prized bites are the ones down the middle that contain some of each glaze.

Dark chocolate peanut butter chip cookie, Levain Bakery
Dark chocolate peanut butter chip cookie, Levain Bakery
Where the famous chocolate chip cookies are baked
Where the famous chocolate chip cookies are baked

NYC is also home to another gold cookie standard: the 6-ounce chocolate-chip behemoths at the famous Levain Bakery on the Upper West Side. These cookies are completely bonkers: they’re dense mega-cookie masses that are somehow able to stay gooey on the inside and crisp on the outside long after they’re fresh from the oven. I’m partial to the chocolate-peanut butter variety, but you can’t go wrong with any of them. I brought home two of these cookies for my roommate, who had already experienced their greatness on past trips, and she reacted as if I had given her a winning lottery ticket.

We found one more standout cookie at the Jacques Torres in Rockefeller Center. I already knew we were onto something when the cashier asked if we wanted it served warm, and saw a few of the dark chocolate chip cookies on a heating tray that was kept at the ideal melty temperature. Between the decadent cookie and sips of the rich “wicked” hot chocolate that was spiked with ancho and chipotle, I was teetering on the edge of chocolate overload, but I persevered in the interest of research!

Warm chocolate chip cookie and wicked hot chocolate with ancho and chipotle
Warm chocolate chip cookie and wicked hot chocolate with ancho and chipotle

And dessert didn’t stop at cookies. Other favorite treats included Doughnut Plant’s passionfruit-glazed yeast doughnut, which had a distinct and unique fruitiness, and a bite-size PB&J cupcake at SoHo storefront Baked by Melissa, which also won for cutest display case. Finally, the wrap-up to our brunch at The Spotted Pig was a swoon-worthy slice of the restaurant’s signature banoffee pie that layered banana, dulce de leche, tufts of whipped cream, and shaved chocolate atop a thin crust. A sweet ending to the trip, indeed.

Passionfruit glazed yeast doughnut, Doughnut Plant
Passionfruit glazed yeast doughnut, Doughnut Plant
Bite-sized cupcakes, Baked by Melissa
Bite-sized cupcakes, Baked by Melissa
Banoffee pie, The Spotted Pig
Banoffee pie, The Spotted Pig

The details: Lenny’s and Jacques Torres, both 30 Rockefeller Plaza; Levain Bakery, 167 W. 74th St.; The Spotted Pig, 314 W. 11th St.; Doughnut Plant, 220 W. 23rd St.; Baked by Melissa, 577 Broadway.

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Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Best savory bites from 4 days in NYC

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

Everything bagel with pastrami-cured salmon and horseradish cream cheese, Russ & Daughters
Everything bagel with pastrami-cured salmon and horseradish cream cheese, Russ & Daughters

While in New York, there was a lot of other eating to do outside of our Restaurant Week reservations. First off, in such a bagel-centric city, breakfast was a high priority. I was especially awestruck by Russ & Daughters, a smoked fish mecca that’s been around for 100 years, but that I hadn’t visited until this trip. The pastrami-cured salmon combined two potent New York flavors into one unforgettable bagel topping, only enhanced by a slick of horseradish cream cheese. I can’t wait to go back and taste more kinds of fish! We also stopped at legendary Katz’s Deli (you may remember it from When Harry Met Sally or Enchanted) – since it was a little too early in the day for a sky-high sandwich, we settled for a simpler snack of latkes with applesauce and sour cream.

Cream cheese and caviar at the Russ & Daughters counter as my bagel is being prepared
Cream cheese and caviar at the Russ & Daughters counter as my bagel is assembled
Smoked fish heaven at Russ & Daughters
Smoked fish heaven at Russ & Daughters
Latkes and coffee, Katz's Delicatessen
Latkes and coffee, Katz’s Delicatessen
Interior at the legendary Katz's deli, including the "When Harry Met Sally" sign
Interior at the legendary Katz’s deli, including the “When Harry Met Sally” sign

In pursuit of pizza, another important New York food group, we ventured out to Roberta’s in Brooklyn. Both pies we tried were sublime, with bubbly, charred crusts and perfectly melted rounds of fresh mozzarella. The duck prosciutto with crusty bread had a nicely subtle richness as a starter. On the other end of the spectrum, I couldn’t resist inducting my friends into the late-night tradition that is 99-cent pizza: a piping hot, classic NY-style slice that might be the best value in Manhattan. It’s served at locations all over the island, and was a staple for my roommates and me when we lived there.

Four Emperors (arrabbiata, mozzarella, ricotta, capra con pepe, asiago, and sesame seed) and Lionheart (tomato, mozzarella, pecorino, prosciutto cotto, brussels sprouts, and onion) pizzas, Roberta's
Four Emperors (arrabbiata, mozzarella, ricotta, capra con pepe, asiago, and sesame seed) and Lionheart (tomato, mozzarella, pecorino, prosciutto cotto, brussels sprouts, and onion) pizzas, Roberta’s
Duck prosciutto with bread, Roberta's
Duck prosciutto with bread, Roberta’s
A late-night slice from one of the many 99-Cent Fresh Pizza locations
A late-night slice from one of the many 99-Cent Fresh Pizza locations

And then there was brunch at The Spotted Pig, Chef April Bloomfield’s ultra-popular West Village gastropub. I went for the sizzling sisig special, traditionally a Filipino dish made with diced-up pig face and an egg added in the middle. It was crispy, porky, garlicky, and a little over-the-top, but so delicious. All I wanted were more bread crisps to dip into what was left in the cast-iron pan. The deviled eggs made a zesty first bite, especially together with a Bloody Mary that was heavy on shaved horseradish.

Sizzling sisig (Filipino pig face dish), The Spotted Pig
Sizzling sisig (Filipino pig face dish), The Spotted Pig
Deviled eggs, The Spotted Pig
Deviled eggs, The Spotted Pig
Bloody Mary, The Spotted Pig
Bloody Mary, The Spotted Pig

Speaking of drinks, we came away with a few other favorite places to imbibe. My Calle Fresca margarita at the Meatpacking District location of Dos Caminos was pleasantly tropical with a punch from the ancho-salt rim (I also loved their chips and salsa). We were also seeking somewhere cozy for a glass of wine in Midtown East, and Cello Wine Bar fit the bill. Exposed brick, red-toned cushions, and lots of candles – and, of course, diverse by-the-glass options that we all enjoyed sipping.

Calle Fresca margarita with Cazadores Blanco, mango, cucumber, and ancho salt rim
Calle Fresca margarita with Cazadores Blanco, mango, cucumber, and ancho salt rim, Dos Caminos
Interior of cozy Cello Wine Bar
Interior of cozy Cello Wine Bar

The details: Russ & Daughters, 179 E. Houston St., Manhattan; Katz’s Delicatessen, 205 E. Houston St., Manhattan; Roberta’s, 261 Moore St., Brooklyn; 99-Cent Fresh Pizza, 473 Lexington Ave. (and many others), Manhattan; The Spotted Pig, 314 W. 11th St., Manhattan; Dos Caminos, 675 Hudson St., Manhattan; Cello Wine Bar, 229 E. 53rd St., Manhattan.

Categories
Restaurant Week Travel Eats

Travel Eats: NYC Restaurant Week recap

Travel Eats documents my food adventures outside of Chicago.

I dined on four Restaurant Week menus in as many days during a recent trip to New York. From the Financial District up to Harlem, and from Bowery over to Meatpacking, each three-course meal was distinctly delicious – here’s a round-up.

Dinner at Delmonico’s

Classic baked Alaska with walnut cake, apricot jam, banana gelato, meringue, and crème anglaise
Classic baked Alaska with walnut cake, apricot jam, banana gelato, meringue, and crème anglaise

Best Bite and other notes: Counting its earlier iterations, Delmonico’s is hailed as the oldest fine dining restaurant in the U.S., and this meal certainly had the most old-school feel, complete with mahogany-paneled walls and monogrammed china. Delmonico’s also lays claim to conceiving the classic baked Alaska dessert, which came in the form of a spiky, marshmallowy mound that encased banana gelato and almond cake. The equally delicious entree, a petit filet mignon with red wine sauce, creamy potatoes, and charred cauliflower, had the simplicity and execution you’d expect from such a storied steakhouse. See full menu.

Petit filet mignon with Delmonico potato, charred cauliflower, and cabernet wine sauce
Petit filet mignon with Delmonico potato, charred cauliflower, and cabernet wine sauce
Delmonico's classic interior
Delmonico’s classic interior, including the mural that was inspired by a 1940’s photo

The details: Delmonico’s Restaurant, 56 Beaver St., New York.

Dinner at DBGB Kitchen & Bar

Chef's selection of East Coast oysters
Chef’s selection of East Coast oysters

Best Bite and other notes: I’d never been to one of Chef Daniel Boulud’s restaurants, and was impressed not only by the food, but also the decor – especially the mirrored walls emblazoned with culinary quotations. For dinner, I happily slurped down four briny East Coast oysters with a garlicky champagne mignonette and devoured the plump duck and pork belly sausage with grainy mustard. My favorite course, though, was the playful dessert. The bourbon chocolate sundae was vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate syrup and bourbon, and then scattered with cubes of all textures – dense chocolate brownie, bourbon gelee, crispy chocolate-chip cookie – all underneath one big whipped cream cloud. It was my favorite ice cream dessert since the Choco Taco at Little Goat here in Chicago. See full menu.

Bourbon chocolate sundae
Bourbon chocolate sundae
Duck and pork belly sausage with housemade sauerkraut, glazed turnips, and fingerling potatoes
Duck and pork belly sausage with housemade sauerkraut, glazed turnips, and fingerling potatoes

The details: DBGB Kitchen & Bar, 299 Bowery, New York.

Lunch at Red Rooster

Mac & greens with smoked gouda, NY cheddar, and caramelized onions
Mac & greens with smoked gouda, NY cheddar, and caramelized onions

Best Bite and other notes: Red Rooster seemed to truly capture the spirit of Harlem, with vibrant colors and all kinds of cultural relics. I was also thrilled that Chef Marcus Samuelsson himself was at the restaurant that day, and stopped by our table to say hello! I really enjoyed all three courses: the coconut-cauliflower soup fragrant with lemongrass, the oh-so-cheesy mac ‘n’ collard greens, and the cinnamon-sugared doughnut holes with light sweet potato filling. See full menu.

Red Rooster doughnuts with sweet potato filling and cinnamon sugar
Red Rooster doughnuts with sweet potato filling and cinnamon sugar
Interior of Red Rooster
Colorful interior of Red Rooster

The details: Red Rooster, 310 Lenox Ave., Harlem.

Dinner at Spice Market

Mapo tofu with black bean sauce, Chinese long beans, and thai basil
Mapo tofu with black bean sauce, Chinese long beans, and thai basil

Best Bite and other notes: Spice Market is the Southeast Asian-influenced restaurant in Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s dining empire, so it seemed like a fun, shareable pick for Restaurant Week. Ornate and dimly lit (please excuse the lighting in the photos!), the palatial space fit right into the buzzy Meatpacking District. Food-wise, the mapo tofu was the winner, with chunks of tofu, chewy rice-cake slices, and Chinese long beans lacquered in black bean sauce. There was also irresistible crunch in the grain salad – we later learned it was millet and amaranth – amidst lots of veggies and a tangy tamarind vinaigrette. See full menu.

Crispy grain salad with tamarind vinaigrette
Crispy grain salad with tamarind vinaigrette

The details: Spice Market, 403 W. 13th St., New York.

Categories
Travel Eats

Next stop: New York City!

On a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge when I lived in New York
On a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge when I lived in New York

Just when you thought I couldn’t possibly have anything else to say about Restaurant Week – it’s time for round two. Tomorrow, I’ll be traveling to another incredible city to participate: New York! It’s part of a girls’ trip for my friend’s birthday that conveniently overlaps with NYC Restaurant Week. We won’t just be indulging in three-course meals, though, so also expect a full report of all the best bites in between. After a short time living there and a handful of trips since, I’ve decided that a few foods are mandatory whenever I’m in the Big Apple: bagel and lox, pastrami (preferably from Katz’s), pizza, and two kinds of cookies (namely, chocolate-chip from Levain and black-and-white from Lenny’s). I’m excited to try several new places this trip and taste the cuisine of chefs I’ve followed for years. Check back next week for more on my NYC adventures.