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Dublin Dining Travel Eats

Travel Eats: Euro-whirlwind in Dublin, Edinburgh & London

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

This year, I celebrated my birthday by heading back across the pond for six days. I started by reuniting with Dublin – both the people and the city – and also fit in quick stops in Edinburgh (for the first time) and London.

While in Dublin, I revisited some favorite spots from my time there: Avoca, the subject of a previous post about an equally colorful dish; Sister Sadie, where I was wowed by dinner, and Hatch & Sons, a cozy café that taught me about the blaa.

Halloumi salad, Avoca
Grilled Toonsbridge halloumi salad, butternut squash, cavolo nero, baba ghanoush & dukkah, Avoca
Cortado and scone, Hatch and Sons
Cortado and scone with butter and raspberry jam, Hatch & Sons
Beans and toast, Sister Sadie
Home-baked beans in tomato sauce with a soft fried egg, whipped feta, olive & lemon yogurt, fresh herbs, and toasted bread

I also tried a few new places: Catch 22 for smoked salmon, Whitefriar Grill for their renowned brunch, and the Tram Cafe for a mocha served out of a restored turn-of-the-century train car.

Smoked salmon with mushy peas, Catch 22
Castletownbere smoked salmon with Guinness bread and mushy peas, Catch 22
Exterior, Tram Cafe
Exterior, The Tram Café
Mocha, Tram Cafe
Mocha, The Tram Café
Interior, Tram Cafe
Interior, The Tram Café
Norwegian eggs, Whitefriar Grill
Norwegian eggs with potato rosti, smoked salmon, baby spinach, and hollandaise, Whitefriar Grill

Next, it was off to Edinburgh for the main dining event: a seven-course tasting at The Gardener’s Cottage that was seasonal, creative, and completely charming. I also tried haggis (not as crazy as people make it sound) and enjoyed a traditional Scottish breakfast.

The Gardener's Cottage, tiny and tucked away
Walking up to The Gardener’s Cottage, tiny and tucked away
Amuse bouche, The Gardener's Cottage
Mussels with herb crumb and broad bean with mint, The Gardener’s Cottage
Trout, The Gardener's Cottage
Trout with cauliflower and sheep sorrel, The Gardener’s Cottage
Tortelloni, The Gardener's Cottage
Beef shin tortellini with butternut squash puree and chantarelles, The Gardener’s Cottage
Grouse, The Gardener's Cottage
Grouse with spelt, charred onions, parsley, capers, and walnuts, The Gardener’s Cottage
Sorbet and rosé, The Gardener's Cottage
Roman berry sorbet with mascarpone granola and meringue, with a glass of rosé, The Gardener’s Cottage
Chocolate dessert, The Gardener's Cottage
Dessert of blueberry, chocolate ice cream, soft biscuit, and popcorn, The Gardener’s Cottage
Veggie breakfast, Loudon's Cafe and Bakery
Loudons veggie breakfast with veggie sausages, sautéed spinach, egg, tattie scone, baked beans, mushroom, cherry tomatoes, and toasted homemade bread, Loudons Cafe & Bakery
Haggis tower, No. 1 High Street
Haggis, neeps and tatties tower (haggis with carrot and turnip), No. 1 High Street

Then, with tea and salted caramel fudge to tide me over for the journey, I took the train from Edinburgh to London to meet friends. We came upon a BBQ spot in Camden that night for dinner, and the next day spent multiple hours in the culinary mecca that is the Borough Market (recommended to me by many).

Braised ox cheek sandwich, Q Grill
Braised ox cheek on a brioche bun with chilli slaw, mustard mayo, and seasoned fries, Q Grill
Key lime pie jar, Q Grill
Key lime pie jar, Q Grill
Grilled cheese (with 4+ different cheeses), Borough Market
Grilled cheese (with 4+ different cheeses), Borough Market
Exotic meats, Borough Market
Exotic bites trio of crocodile, ostrich, and zebra, Borough Market
Fresh figs, Borough Market
Fresh (and massive) figs, Borough Market
Meringues, Borough Market
Giant meringue topped with macarons, Borough Market

The details: Avoca, 11–13 Suffolk St., Dublin 2, Ireland; Sister Sadie, 46 Harrington St., Dublin 8, Ireland; Hatch & Sons, Little Museum of Dublin, 15 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland; Catch 22, 28 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Ireland; The Tram Cafe, Wolfe Tone Quay, Milltown Park, Dublin 1, Ireland; Whitefriar Grill, 16 Aungier Street, Dublin 2, Ireland; The Gardener’s Cottage, 294 Colinton Rd, Edinburgh, Scotland; Loudons Cafe & Bakery, 94b Fountainbridge, Edinburgh, Scotland; No. 1 High Street, 1 High St., Edinburgh, Scotland; Q Grill, 29-33 Chalk Farm Rd., London, England; Borough Market, 8 Southwark St., London, England.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Five-course tasting menu at Forest Avenue

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Agnolotti, Forest Avenue
Agnolotti of Comté, Jerusalem artichoke, truffle & whey butter & pickled cabbage

I knew that my last weekend in Dublin had to include a special meal, and after a little research, Forest Avenue fit all the criteria: seasonal and locally sourced Irish cuisine, tasting menu format, reasonable price. But this restaurant was even more of a gem than I ever expected. I stayed impressed through the entire dinner, including an especially dreamy pasta course with buttery, truffle-scented agnolotti and Jeusalem artichoke.

Bacon tart and aubergine-green olive snacks, Forest Avenue
Aubergine and green olive on a cracker and mini bacon tart, two of several snacks
Parsnip soup, Forest Avenue
Parsnip soup with mushroom and crisps, the last of the snacks

Several snacks and soup served as bonus courses to begin the meal. Each bite packed flavor, whether it was salty olive on a cracker, smoky bacon in a tart, or earthy mushrooms punctuating a delightfully foamy parsnip soup. Next came the salad course, where roasted beets were transformed by blood orange, creamy curd, and dukkah, an Egyptian spice blend. The early courses paired especially well with our bottle of Austrian white wine, a unique straw-colored blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Gruner Veltliner from 2014.

Beet salad, Forest Avenue
Salad of beets with blood orange, curd, dukkah, and radish
Duck, Forest Avenue
Duck, swede, onion, chanterelle, and romaine lettuce

I chose duck as my main, which brought me full circle from the excellent duck I’d had at The Pig’s Ear during my very first weekend in Dublin. The nicely charred onion, wilted greens, and rich jus kept the focus firmly on the meat itself. In fact, that kind of focus and purity of flavor was really a theme in all of the dishes.

Dessert also included a couple of bonus courses, but the main event was a pleasantly tropical combination of coconut panna cotta and passion fruit sorbet with pineapple and spiced bread crumble on top. Even with its several playful components, the dessert still felt focused and clean. And Forest Avenue’s whole aesthetic adhered to those same values, from the earth-toned art and antler wall hangings down to the beautiful ceramic servingware. All that combined with attentive service and a soulful soundtrack made this the restaurant I’d now most highly recommend in Dublin.

Coconut panna cotta, Forest Avenue
Coconut panna cotta, pineapple, spiced bread & passion fruit sorbet

While I’m sad that my time in Dublin had to come to an end, I’ve already started catching up on all the food and drink Chicago introduced while I was gone. Stay tuned!

The details: Forest Avenue, 8 Sussex Terrace, Dublin 4, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Duck liver creme, pan-fried hake & more, The Vintage Kitchen

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Wicklow duck liver creme, lime jelly, pistachio, toast, and raisin, apple, and star anise jam, The Vintage Kitchen
Wicklow duck liver creme, lime jelly, pistachio, toast, and raisin, apple, and star anise jam

As I write this, I’m spending my very last morning in Dublin, so it feels right to look back on what was probably my most fun dining experience. I booked a table at The Vintage Kitchen a few weeks in advance (it’s a small restaurant with only two evening seatings), and made it a girls’ night. And thanks to the BYOB policy, I was able to bring along the last bottle of wine that I had brought back from Tuscany. The silky-smooth red paired well with all three of my courses.

The star of the meal for me was the starter of duck liver creme, an unctuous spread topped with a thin layer of lime jelly and lots of crushed pistachio. Spread onto crustless toast points together with an apple-raisin jam, it basically made the perfect sweet-and-savory bite. And thankfully, there was enough of the creme and jam to form a whole lot of those bites, especially after a few more slices of toast magically appeared without asking.

Pan-fried hake, The Vintage Kitchen
Pan-fried Atlantic hake with white beans, Roaring Bay rope mussels, cajun and tomato bisque, and lump fish caviar

I went for the pan-fried hake as my main. I’ve ordered hake a few times before in Dublin, but never have I seen it presented with such height and pizazz. The bed of mussels bathed in white bean-tomato sauce and the seashell full of lump caviar were excellent accompaniments. And again, the portion was incredibly generous for a modestly priced prix-fixe menu.

The half-baked chocolate cake for dessert lived up to its name. The inside oozed with liquid, melting into what felt almost like cake batter ice cream. It was a rich ending to a genuinely fun meal. The vinyl records and pop-art decor keep the tiny restaurant’s setting feeling at once cozy and fashionable, so it was an ideal venue for laughing and reflecting on the past several months.

Half-baked chocolate cake, The Vintage Kitchen
Half-baked chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream

The details: The Vintage Kitchen, 7 Poolbeg St., Dublin 2, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Butternut squash, quinoa, and sweet potato cakes, Avoca

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Butternut squash, quinoa, and sweet potato cakes, Avoca
Butternut squash, quinoa, and sweet potato cakes with heritage carrot, avocado, and fennel salad, and beetroot tzatziki

The Avoca brand is beloved for both its fashionable shopping and its excellent gourmet food. I’ve visited three locations across Ireland, and each visit tends to include a little of both. The café on Suffolk Street in the Dublin city center has an especially lovely view, located several floors above street level. There are bright patterns and colors everywhere, and I was delighted to see that extend to the food itself. Every component of this vegetarian entree was vibrant, all the way to the garlicky beet sauce and similarly hued pomegranate seeds that bejeweled the nutty salad. The cakes had just the right texture, nicely paired with bites of avocado and carrot. It was the kind of satisfying, nutrient-rich lunch that puts you in a good mood for the rest of the day.

The details: Avoca, 11–13 Suffolk St., Dublin 2, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Pheasant, game pasty, and chocolate fondant, Delahunt

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Pheasant breast, Delahunt
Pheasant breast with white pudding, roast parsnip, sprout tops, and pickled cranberry

Delahunt has only been open about a year, occupying an historic building on Camden Street. The interior was a pleasant mix of old and new: white marble-topped tables, modern lighting, and a classically ornate wooden bar. The menu was seasonal and focused, so my dining companion and I decided to try all three courses. I went with pheasant as my main, as I rarely see it offered. The meat was beautifully cooked, and paired nicely with mildly sweet parsnip and tart pickled cranberry. I also could easily have eaten another round or two of the house-made white pudding.

Dessert was the kind of chocolate-and-caramel concoction that I find irresistible (and admittedly have a hard time sharing). The salty ice cream and sauce mingled with the warm center of the chocolate fondant in the best of ways, interspersed with bites of the generous praline garnish. In a city of excellent cakes, this one was very much a standout.

Chocolate fondant, Delahunt
Warm chocolate fondant with salt caramel ice cream and praline

My starter kept with the same theme as my main: game meat, but this time encased in a flaky crust and boosted by umami-rich chanterelle mushrooms and a chestnut sauce. It also went especially well with our wine selection of Monte Tondo soave, a clean and gently fruity Italian white. The whole meal felt cozy and wintry, making Delahunt a most pleasant January destination.

Game pasty, Delahunt
Game pasty with Jerusalem artichoke, chestnut, and pickled chanterelles

The details: Delahunt, 39 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Beef brisket sandwich, Green Bench Café

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Brisket sandwich, Green Bench Cafe
Sandwich with spicy slow-cooked beef brisket, avocado, tomato relish, coleslaw, and mixed baby leaves

I’ve been hearing rave reviews of Green Bench sandwiches for weeks now – the queue outside at lunchtime is supposedly one of the longest in the city. This week, I was fortunate enough to be included in a group order picked up by someone else, so my extraordinary lunch came queue-free. A generous pile of shredded beef brisket anchored the sandwich, with just a touch of heat in its marinade, and the coleslaw was a crunchy foil to the tender meat. Avocado and tomato relish are already two staples in my Irish diet, so they were welcome additions. I was prepared for the sandwich to be rather messy, but the well-toasted bread somehow held up to the all the fillings.

The details: Green Bench Café, 18 Montague St., Dublin 2, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Breakfast caesar salad and Bloody Mary, Super Miss Sue

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Breakfast Caesar, Super Miss Sue
Breakfast Caesar with charred Cos, crispy ham, eggs, pickled onion, and salad cream

I wasn’t sure if upscale brunch would be as popular in Ireland as it is in the States, but Super Miss Sue made it clear that Dublin takes the leisurely weekend meal just as seriously. And if I know anything about brunch, it’s that most of the best ones start with a great Bloody Mary. This one was exceptional: lots of peppery spice and savory worcestershire kick, plus brine from the pickle and char from the shrimp. It felt classic and fresh all at once.

Bloody Mary, Super Miss Sue

Classic Bloody Mary with a prawn and pickle

My entree veered even further away from tradition. It was a breakfast version of a Caesar salad, so poached eggs landed atop croutons, dressing, and charred romaine leaves. Crispy ham and pickled onions rounded out all the different textures, and also added more color to an already beautiful plate. I wouldn’t normally choose a salad in the morning, but this one definitely satisfied. And closing out the meal with coffee and gelato is never a bad idea, especially when one of the trio of flavors tasted just like Ferrero Rocher.

Coffee, vanilla, and ferrero-rocher gelato with coffee, Super Miss Sue
Coffee, vanilla, and ferrero-rocher gelato with coffee

The details: Super Miss Sue, 2–3 Drury St., Dublin 2, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Baked salmon, sesame-glazed chorizo, shakshuka & more, Sister Sadie

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Chorizo and goat's cheese bon bons and roast carrots, Sister Sadie
Sesame-glazed pan-fried chorizo with goat’s cheese bon bons with spiced hazelnut, rocket salad, and soused onion; lemon and tahini roast carrot with fresh herbs

A local friend suggested we check out Sister Sadie, an eclectic little café launched by another popular restaurant called Brother Hubbard. Sister Sadie had just recently started supper service three nights a week, and once I read a few early reviews, I was sold. The menu itself was small but ambitious, with a focus on creative seasonal ingredients and warm Middle Eastern spices. We shared several dishes, each with unique character. Rounds of sesame-glazed chorizo and seeded goat cheese joined an unlikely combination of hazelnut, roasted red pepper, pickled onion, and mixed greens in a way that worked incredibly well. Soft, herb-roasted carrots with zingy tahini sauce and a heavy dusting of za’atar were what every vegetable side should aspire to be.

The baked salmon salad excelled in both texture and flavor: citrusy, sumac-crusted salmon and plenty of crunch from pickled fennel, spiced seeds, and greens. I also enjoyed Sister Sadie’s version of shakshuka (baked eggs, also a favorite at Avec brunch in Chicago) – the rich, chunky tomato sauce and feta cheese tasted great with both the eggs and the accompanying za’atar flatbread. The service was easily the most attentive I’d had so far in Dublin, and we were even sent home with a pastry for breakfast the next morning.

Baked salmon and shakshuka, Sister Sadie
Warm salad of sumac and citrus-spiced baked salmon fillet with pea and roast cherry tomato salad, turmeric pickled fennel, and spiced seeds; shakshuka-style baked eggs with feta cheese, coriander, and za’atar flatbread

The details: Sister Sadie, 46 Harrington St., Dublin 8, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Spiced beef blaa, pear-almond tart & Earl Grey iced tea, Hatch & Sons

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Spiced beef blaa, Hatch and Sons
Blaa with Michael Birmingham’s spiced beef, coolea, onion relish, and mayo

Nestled underneath the Little Museum of Dublin is Hatch & Sons Irish Kitchen, a cafe that serves “stews, cakes and salads – the kind of food we all like to eat,” as its sign outside proclaims. The inside was cozy and minimalist, and the menu was equally well-curated. I was intrigued by the “Blaas” section, and learned that a blaa is a soft Irish bun with a healthy dusting of flour on top. My petite blaa was piled with shredded beef, melted coolea (a cheese similar to gouda), greens, and a sweet caramelized onion relish. The toppings worked well together, but the soft-yet-sturdy texture of the blaa is really what turned my savory brunch sandwich into something extra special.

A glass of Earl Grey iced tea was a sweet, refreshing complement – and was so memorable that I’m now inspired to try making my own at home. Hatch & Sons was also the kind of place where you couldn’t help but linger and enjoy some cake (which in Ireland can refer to any variety of pastry or baked treat). My pear-almond tart was true to the classical French version, and the chilled cream on the side added another touch of elegance.

Pear-almond tart, Hatch and Sons
Pear-almond tart with cream
Earl Grey iced tea, Hatch and Sons
Earl Grey iced tea

The details: Hatch & Sons, Little Museum of Dublin, 15 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland.

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Dublin Dining

Dublin Dining: Kerala Kitchen, The Paella Guys & more, Irish Village Markets

Dublin Dining chronicles my food & drink experiences during six months living in Dublin, Ireland.

Grand Canal, Irish Village Market
Diners lining both sides of the Grand Canal during the lunchtime market

Thursday is quickly becoming one of my favorite days in Dublin, and it’s mostly because of this pop-up lunchtime market on Mespil Road. Vendors start setting up their stalls along the Grand Canal early in the morning, and by around 11am, they’re serving more than a dozen different global cuisines right across the street from my office. Every week, I join hundreds of other businesspeople who grab lunch and find a spot along the canal to enjoy it, often on blankets provided by the market.

Chicken tikka masala and Keralan chicken coconut curry, Kerala Kitchen
Chicken tikka masala and Keralan chicken coconut curry from Kerala Kitchen
Queue for Kerala Kitchen
A long queue for Kerala Kitchen, as usual

I couldn’t help but notice the long queue at Kerala Kitchen week after week, and finally had to try it for myself. Both dishes – chicken tikka masala and Keralan chicken coconut curry – were completely delicious. If I had to choose between the two, I’d go with the Keralan coconut, simply because it felt more unique and had a nice balance of sweetness and spice. But since half-and-half is an option, I probably won’t ever have to.

Half paella, half meatballs, The Paella Guys
Half chicken and chorizo paella, half moorish meatballs from The Paella Guys
Steaming paella, The Paella Guys
Steam rising off the enormous pan of paella at The Paella Guys

The half-and-half is also a staple at another perpetually crowded stall: The Paella Guys. Why just order chicken and chorizo paella, cooked in the largest paella pan I’ve ever seen, when you can add in garlicky moorish meatballs in a rich and aromatic sauce? The pairing of flavors was even more satisfying than I expected, and the large portion was enough to have leftovers.

I was also charmed by the Pieman Cafe, whose tagline is “Look Into My Pies.” During my first week in Dublin, I tucked into the Sunday Dinner pie special, complete with mashed potatoes and brown gravy, and it couldn’t have been more comforting. And of course, there’s dessert, in the form of picturesque cupcakes from The Cupcake Oven. I was a fan of the traditional Irish toffee flavor.

Sunday dinner pie, the Pieman Cafe
“Sunday dinner” pie with mashed potatoes and gravy from the Pieman Cafe
Cupcakes, The Cupcake Oven
Toffee cupcakes (and other varieties) from The Cupcake Oven

There’s also a coffee stall, Bryan’s Coffee, which came in especially handy when I needed an afternoon pick-me-up and the office coffee machine was out of order. At the last minute, I noticed that marshmallows were an option for the latte, and I had to smile when these pink and white miniatures were scattered on top. It made an already tasty latte extra special.

Latte with marshmallows, Bryan's Coffee
Latte with marshmallows from Bryan’s Coffee

The details: Irish Village Markets, Mespil Road, Dublin 4, Ireland (one of several market locations throughout the week).

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