Why it’s a Best Bite: It’s no secret that Fat Rice is a favorite of mine for both dinner and brunch, so I was excited to check out their take on a Macanese bakery. In July, the Fat Rice team opened this daytime pastelaria along with an adjacent, red-lit cocktail lounge called The Ladies’ Room that’s reservations-only.
Colorful birdcage lighting
I couldn’t help but love the bakery’s decor. From the pastel-painted storefront to the vibrant birdcage light fixtures, color was everywhere – including the pastries. Cracking open my ube bun revealed a yam filling in an almost shocking shade of royal purple. Its texture contrasted nicely with the crispy coconut that formed a golden crown on top.
Anywhere else in the city, you’d expect that a breakfast pastry modeled after a Chicago-style hot dog would just be an overdone novelty, the stuff of downtown tourist traps. But here, they totally pulled it off. The poppy seeds, onion, celery salt, and bright green relish with chunks of Vienna beef hot dog brought me straight to the ballpark, just with a more elaborate bun.
Hot dog bun, Chicago-style, with Vienna beef and classic fixins
I added the mochi almost as an afterthought, since I tend to enjoy it in all forms, and am grateful I did. The stretchy rice-flour exterior was flecked with coconut and then stuffed with peanut, black sesame, and other crunchy seeds. Sweet and salty doesn’t even cover it – this was borderline addictive.
Mochi with black sesame, peanut, coconut, and seeds
The details:The Bakery at Fat Rice, 2951 W. Diversey Ave., Chicago.
Why it’s a Best Bite: I was out of the country when Boka Restaurant Group’s splashy new steakhouse opened in the Google building, so since my return I’d been looking for an occasion to go. Chicago has more than its fair share of steak-leaning restaurants, but this one quickly rose above the rest in recent memory, mostly because of the attention to detail in both food and service.
I began with the Benevolent Philathropist, a pink peppercorn-flecked drink that blended three of my favorite cocktail ingredients: amaro, whiskey, and egg white. It was so good that I broke my usual “try something different” rule and ordered a second one with my steak.
Benevolent Philathropist cocktail with whiskey, amaro, fraise des bois, lemon, egg white, and pink peppercornChilled salmon tartare with cucumber, crème fraîche, and charred onion
The chilled salmon tartare made a refreshing starter before the heavier dishes to come. It was almost reminiscent of a deconstructed bagel and lox, only with the purest, coolest cucumber liquid at the bottom. And then, the steak. My 8-ounce filet was cooked to a beautiful medium rare, and while it could have stood on its own without any sauces, I’m so glad it didn’t. The steak sauce and bearnaise – both excellent – came standard, and we also added caramelized onion and anchovy garlic butter. That melted butter was basically liquid umami, so it made the meat even more satisfying.
Sides of creamed spinach with vin blanc and roasted mushrooms with porcini aioli (not pictured), plus steak sauce, bearnaise, caramelized onion, and anchovy garlic butterKey lime bar with white chocolate mousse, lime curd, and graham crunch
The dessert I liked best surprised me, because key lime pie isn’t something I normally seek out, but we were convinced by our server that it was a version worth trying. Thin layers of lime curd and graham cracker bolstered a luscious, lime zest-spiked white chocolate mousse that just worked so well – and the toasted meringue and gold leaf didn’t hurt either. The Swift & Sons spin on a Cracker Jack was also top-notch, a salty-sweet bomb of peanut butter, popcorn, and caramel.
And lest we forego a more chocolate-focused finish, a charming wooden trolley was wheeled over to our table with all manner of confections: bars, trifles, mousses, tiramisus. We finally decided on a Butterfinger-inspired treat, and it did not disappoint. It also somehow tied together the old-school, wood-and-gold space in the most whimsical way.
S & S Cracker Jack dessert with peanut butter mousse, salted caramel, caramel corn, and popcorn sherbetCouldn’t resist the chocolate trolley once it was wheeled to our table
The details:Swift & Sons, 1000 W. Fulton Market, Chicago.
I’ve spent the last month catching up on Chicago dining and drinking destinations! These were the standouts for brunch, dinner, and beverages.
Brunch
3 Arts Club Café
Burrata with slow-roasted tomatoes, garlic bread, and basil
I have to begin with what must be the most breathtaking dining setting I’ve seen in Chicago lately (and from the looks of Instagram, I’m not alone in this assessment). The glitzy Gold Coast café has sweeping windows, brick arches, skylights above towering trees, glittering chandeliers, and a centerpiece fountain that we were more than happy to be seated right alongside. This plate of burrata, tomatoes, and garlic toast was just as elegant as the atmosphere.
Catalpa Kitchen
Old Fashioned flapjacks with orange caramel, bourbon cherries, and angostura whip
Brunch at this newcomer to Logan Boulevard had a decidedly cozier vibe, and these creatively boozy pancakes fit right in. Orange caramel, angostura whipped cream, and bourbon-soaked cherries atop a pile of flapjacks added up to a version of an Old Fashioned almost as good as the cocktail itself.
Latinicity
Sunday brunch with tacos, oysters, empanadas, waffle bacon burgers, caramelized plantains, and more
Latinicity opened on the third floor of the Block 37 complex late last year, and its Sunday brunch is an especially good value: $25 gets you unlimited food from eight different stations, plus two brunch beverages from the bar. Our group divided and conquered, each visiting a different counter and bringing back as many offerings as we could, and our strategy produced a delicious variety of results. A few standouts: oysters on the half shell, tacos al pastor, smoked fish dip, and savory lomo saltado with fried rice.
Dinner
Monteverde
Cannelloni saltimbocca with prosciutto, lamb, sage, balsamic, soffritto, and romanesco
I’ll admit that I made this March reservation at Monteverde while I was still in Dublin, because I was that excited to try Sarah Grueneberg’s much-anticipated pasta dishes. The cannelloni was exactly the caliber I was expecting: the hardy rolls of pasta stood up to the proscuitto and lamb, enhanced by sage, balsamic, and crunchy romanesco – everyone’s favorite veggie fractal. I was also impressed by the sunchoke crostini, complete with creamy ricotta and lots of black truffle. We also happened to be dining there the same night as Chicago’s mayor (and heard even he had to make a reservation).
Artichoke & sunchoke crostini with fontina, ricotta, and Savini black truffle
Band of Bohemia
Coffee-roasted carrot with coconut milk, chai, sesame seed, licorice, and oxalis
A self-described “culinary brewpub,” Band of Bohemia brews food-friendly beers exclusively to pair with its dishes. Our group’s meal here was meant to make up for missing Chicago Restaurant Week, and it was a more than sufficient substitute. These coffee-roasted, coconut-scented heirloom carrots packed explosive flavor, with lots of contrast from chai, licorice, and sesame. The steak and the foie gras were also major hits at our table. Beer-wise, I was particularly a fan of the beet-thyme and apple-tarragon brews.
Three house-brewed beers: roasted beet thyme, orange chicory rye, and grilled apple tarragon
Salero
Confit potatoes a la plancha with mushroom demi-glace, wild mushrooms, sunny egg, and Queso Tetilla
A few friends graciously threw me a welcome back celebration at this Spanish eatery in the West Loop. Of all the dishes we sampled, these grilled potatoes with heaps of wild mushrooms, toasted grains, and a sunny-side egg were the most savory and satisfying. The baked alaska with “Welcome Home” in script on the plate was also a lovely touch.
Drinks
Cantina 1910
Bears Club cocktail with Milagro Reposado tequila, Punt e Mes, maple, and cherrywood
I’d heard great things about the drinks at Andersonville’s new upscale Mexican cantina. This was quite possibly the smokiest cocktail I’ve ever had, and I was completely captivated by the cherry and maple notes in every sip. It’s now only available as a large-format shareable drink, so I’d recommend getting a few others on board if you visit.
Mezcaleria Las Flores
Unknown Death cocktail with mezcal, amaro, ancho reyes, crème de noyaux, lemon juice, and simple syrup
This cocktail was in the same smoky family, but served across town at Mezcaleria Las Flores in Logan Square. This new flower-shop-turned-mezcal-bar has gotten a lot of attention for its concept, and I’m glad to see such an oft-overlooked spirit getting some time on the spotlight. This cocktail was balanced and citrusy, with punchy amaro and a colorful sprinkle of hibiscus on top. Bonus: we were also able to order snacks from adjacent Johnny’s Grill – just ask for a menu.
Portillo’s
Chocolate cake shake
I had to include this beloved Chicago treat, because having one my first week back at work made me truly feel like I was home again. Portillo’s chocolate cake shakes are basically an institution, and are as simple as they sound – chocolate cake whirred into a milkshake, with chunks of icing and cake crumbs hiding at the bottom of the cup. It’s decadent and a little absurd, but it’s also pure Chicago.
This year, I’ve chosen one best bite (or sip) per month that I didn’t have the chance to blog about in 2015. View year-end recaps from 2012, 2013, and 2014.
January
Beet and goat cheese toast at The Allis, Soho House
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: This was a punchy (and classy) pre-dinner snack on a chilly January night.
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: These meaty, Italian-leaning tater tots sated our hunger on an impromptu Milwaukee Avenue bar crawl (sadly, Rocking Horse has since removed most of their tots options from the menu, including this one, but I trust the remaining varieties are still delicious).
The details:Rocking Horse, 2535 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
March
DIY bloody Mary (with High Life pony) and bacon sweet corn waffle at Bub City
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: Bub City’s bloody Mary bar is over-the-top (mini grilled cheese with an American flag as a garnish!), but the outcome was undeniably excellent, especially paired with a sweet-and-savory waffle.
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: This cinnamon-heavy Costa Rican shake is one of my go-to treats, especially in warm weather.
The details:Irazu, 1865 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
May
Pasta YiaYia with bucatini, cinnamon, feta, garlic, and brown butter at Lula Café
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: For some reason, I’d never ordered this Lula menu staple until this year, and now it’s tough to order anything else during evening hours – the combination of feta, cinnamon, brown butter,and garlic is the purest form of pasta magic. View all my previous Lula posts.
The details:Lula Café, 2537 N. Kedzie Ave., Chicago.
June
Fried egg toast with house bacon, arugula, pickled cabbage, and sunny side egg at Same Day Café
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: This café was a welcome addition to Logan Square this year, serving vibrant egg toast that tasted as good as it looked.
The details:Same Day Café, 2651 N. Kedzie Ave., Chicago.
July
Painted Lady with iced coffee, simple syrup, mint, and ginger lemonade at Big Shoulders Coffee
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: I have been frequenting Big Shoulders on my commute for a long time (for their Monday coffee discount and marshmallow lattes especially), but this was the most creative iced coffee drink I had all summer – who would have thought coffee and lemonade could work together?
Avec burger with chorizo and beef patty, bacon, date mostarda, and piquillo pepper aioli at Avec
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: This decadent burger was a spin on Avec’s iconic stuffed dates, and the new format proved just as successful. Avec, 615 W. Randolph Ave., Chicago.
September
Pumpkin mojito with Havana 3-year rum, mint, lime Juice, ginger syrup soda water, and pumpkin puree – plus a city view
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: This was a surprisingly brilliant autumnal combination: a mojito made with pumpkin purée (don’t knock it until you try it!), sipped on a rooftop with sweeping views of Dublin.
Cuban espresso with Havana 7-year rum, Guinness, espresso, PX sherry, caramel, vanilla, and bitters at The Dean lobby bar
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: Another great cocktail at a hotel bar – this time, one that combined Guinness (it’s Dublin, after all) with rum, sherry, and espresso to create a complex and memorable dessert drink.
Tagliatelle pasta with smoked chicken, butter beans, rocket, basil, fennel seed pistachio pesto cream sauce, parmesan, and brioche crumbs at Canal Bank Café
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: This tagliatelle pasta special at one of my go-to restaurants near the office brought together smoked chicken, pistachio, parmesan, and other spring-like flavors for a lovely result.
The details:Canal Bank Café, 146 Upper Leeson St., Dublin 4, Ireland.
December
Chocolate soufflé at Palo on the Disney Magic cruise ship
Why it’s another 2015 Best Bite: I had to include this outrageously good dessert from my December cruise on the Disney Magic. Pouring the two chocolate sauces over the top of the already silky soufflé was vacation dining at its finest.
This Best Bite is one of the 20 foods and 15 drinks I’ve set out to taste and document in 2015. View the full list to see my plan and progress.
Fried giardiniera with sriracha mayo
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I first visited Parts and Labor a little over two years ago, right after it opened in Logan Square, and I’ve been going back for this unique side dish ever since. Originally, I was just intrigued: giardiniera can only come one way, right? What would a fried version even be like? Turns out, the tempura-like batter adds a fluffy layer of crust that’s masterfully offset by the vinegar-soaked vegetables. It’s spicy, especially after a dip in the sriracha mayo on the side, and is a wonderful reinvention of a humble Chicago condiment.
The details:Parts and Labor, 2700 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
This Best Bite is one of the 20 foods and 15 drinks I’ve set out to taste and document in 2015. View the full list to see my plan and progress.
Cameo Kirby cocktail with gin, dry vermouth, raspberry, lime, and egg white
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: The Chicago Athletic Association Hotel reopened earlier this summer after extensive renovations, and it’s emerged as the dining and drinking wonderland that Michigan Avenue never knew it needed. When the Shake Shack on the first floor isn’t even the main attraction, you know you’re in for an experience.
Go upstairs, wander through the impeccably styled lobby and down a hallway paneled with the same chocolate-hued wood that’s prominent throughout the space, and you’ll find what has to be the classiest game room in Chicago. Try not to get distracted by the billiards, shuffleboard, checkers, or even the full bocce court, and walk all the way back until you reach the double doors that lead to the Cherry Circle Room. With inviting leather booths, warm lighting, and a strikingly elegant bar, this restaurant has mastered the turn-of-the-century speakeasy vibe that can so easily feel forced elsewhere. But it’s not surprising coming from the Land and Sea Dept. group – I’ve blogged about projects of theirs (Longman & Eagle, Lost Lake, Parson’s) a combined eight times, so I guess you could say I’m partial.
So back to that bar, where I chose the gin-based Cameo Kirby to sip while waiting for our table. It stayed completely balanced between fruity and dry, and was deliciously frothy from the egg white. A simple and delicate drink, for sure, but also probably one of my favorite drinks of the year.
Beef tartare with chili, quail egg, aged gouda, and salsa verde
The beef tartare came recommended by the bartender, and seemed like the right kind of throwback dish for the setting. The luxurious creaminess of the quail egg combined with the punchy, herbaceous salsa verde brought the savory mixture together. We spread the tartare on thick slices of grilled bread, whose char added a cooked dimension to the otherwise uncooked beef. Our main courses were just as good, but the tartare definitely set the tone for the rest of the meal.
And your visit to the hotel isn’t complete without a cocktail at Cindy’s, whose 13th floor rooftop boasts what is unquestionably my new favorite view of Millennium Park. Order the rose-petaled “We’ll Always Have Paris,” , lean up against the glass, and soak it all in, whether by day…
This Best Bite is one of the 20 foods and 15 drinks I’ve set out to taste and document in 2015. View the full list to see my plan and progress.
Chicken breast wrap with lettuce, sweet chili jam, and yogurt sauce, plus sides of macho peas and Peri chips (fries)
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Nando’s Peri-Peri is an international fast-casual restaurant chain that has an especially fanatical following in the DC metro area, so I was excited to try out one of Chicago’s two new locations. Originating in South Africa, Nando’s serves food that is heavily influenced by African and Portuguese flavors, and is best known for its Portuguese chicken with peri-peri sauce. I was immediately captivated by the colorful decor, with South African art splashed across the walls and rich, earth-toned textures on every available surface. My friend and I requested a window seat just so we could swing in the hanging wicker chairs. They served as the perfect perch for starting on a pitcher of fruit-laden mango sangria while we waited for our food.
Mango sangria and the swinging wicker chairs in the window
I opted for the chicken breast wrap, which showcased the juicy, well-seasoned chicken, and added pineapple for extra tropical sweetness. The chili jam and yogurt sauce balanced nicely, and the lettuce added necessary crunch. An array of Nando’s-branded sauces were available as condiments, all featuring the signature peri-peri pepper; I liked the garlic and wild herb varieties on my wrap. My favorite part of the meal by far, however, was the side of macho peas, mashed with mint, parsley, and chili. I’m partial to peas in all forms, but this was an especially fresh, green, summery addition to the plate. The combination also reminded me of the Middlewest pea pâté I made (and adored) two years ago. It was good enough to deem it my favorite side dish of the year so far.
This Best Bite is one of the 20 foods and 15 drinks I’ve set out to taste and document in 2015. View the full list to see my plan and progress.
Mango lassi with mango, yoghurt, rum, honey, and bitters
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Pub Royale represents one of the most original restaurant concepts to hit Chicago lately: British-Indian pub fare. I’d heard about the rum-spiked mango lassi from more than one source, and that alone made it a perfectly summery place to dine with my cousins on a recent weeknight. The frosty, creamy lassi was cocktail and dessert in one, with complexity from the tangy yogurt and bitters. I loved snacking on the gobi manchurian – the fried cauliflower tossed in sweet and spicy sauce rivaled the version at Rangoli (my longstanding favorite), and cashews added nice crunch.
Gobi manchurian with crispy cauliflower, sweet & spicy manchurian sauce, sesame, and cashewIndia hot chicken with crazy pickles and chewy naan
The India hot chicken was fusion at its best: an Indian-spiced, nearly tandoori-hued version of traditionally Southern fried chicken. The chewy naan bread underneath soaked up all the spices, so it was just as delicious on its own as it was with the chicken. Other dishes not to miss: the buttered paneer (so flavorful that I even dipped fries in the leftover sauce) and a towering, multi-layered British sundae dubbed the Knickerbocker Glory.
Knickerbocker Glory sundae with Oberweis ice cream, banana, strawberry, chocolate, and many more layers
The details:Pub Royale, 2049 W. Division St., Chicago.
This Best Bite is one of the 20 foods and 15 drinks I’ve set out to taste and document in 2015. View the full list to see my plan and progress.
Shrimp toast with n’duja, radish, avocado, MSG aioli, greens, and lemon
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Sink|Swim is the second venture from the proprietors behind Scofflaw – widely considered one of Chicago’s very best bars – and is conveniently located on the same block. While I expected to be impressed by the menu, especially because of its focus on seafood, these dishes represented some of the most intriguing culinary concepts I’ve seen lately.
Take the shrimp toast, for example: instead of the individual-shrimp-atop-bread that you’d expect, the shrimp is mixed into spicy n’duja sausage to form a spread for toasted brioche (for more details, read Chicago magazine’s playful review). And who can say no to a mini umbrella? I also couldn’t get enough of the beef and oyster tartare, a combination I hadn’t seen before. Scooping the doubly delicious meat onto a crispy chip, together with the horseradish and pickled onion, felt almost like a deconstructed deli sandwich.
Beef & oyster tartare with malt chips and horseradishPecorino cake with whipped honey crémeux, grapefruit, pistachio, and cappelletti
I’m always interested in savory desserts, and this pecorino cake fell into the “where has this been all my life?” category. The nutty cheese came through just enough in the dense cake itself, balanced by a swipe of honey-kissed cream, a generous dusting of pistachio, and an assertive kick from the grapefruit. Pecorino also made an appearance in the charred broccoli, joining furikake seasoning and creamy sauce for a completely unique (yet still comforting) flavor profile.
Charred broccoli with furikake, whey soubise, and pecorinoCaviar|brioche with onion caramel, smoked roe, and cured egg – plus an Esplanade Swizzle with El Peloton mezcal, amontillado sherry, lime, ginger, and Lucky falernum
But perhaps the most surprising snack was the caviar dish. The tiny rounds of brioche were soaked in onion caramel, then topped with smoked roe and shavings of cured egg yolk. Part breakfast (think eggs, smoky bacon, and biscuits with honey) and part luxury appetizer (it’s caviar after all), it was an entirely original, bite-sized treat.
Sailor on the wall, in keeping with the nautical theme (he also makes an appearance on the website)
The details:Sink|Swim, 3213 W. Armitage Ave., Chicago.
This Best Bite is one of the 20 foods and 15 drinks I’ve set out to taste and document in 2015. View the full list to see my plan and progress.
Alice Fay draft cocktail with Fi nlandia vodka, pecan-brown sugar syrup, lemon, and Old Style lager
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: On my first visit to Tippling Hall, I was immediately intrigued by (and I’ll admit, skeptical of) a draft cocktail that featured Old Style beer, and it turned out to be so fun and memorable that I planned another group outing there partially so that I could order this drink again. The Old Style lager flavor is immediately detectable, but is then mellowed and complemented by lemon, vodka, and pecan-brown sugar syrup. It’s a strange sensation to describe, but this refined cocktail immediately transported me to the sun-drenched bleachers at a summer Cubs game. The salty rim and sticky-sweet pecan brittle garnish, which my friend described as the best brittle she’d ever had, not only enhanced the nutty notes from the syrup, but also further evoked the ballpark spirit.
The details:Tippling Hall, 646 N. Franklin St., Chicago.
