Category: Best Bites

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Blackbird and Carriage House

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Lunch at Blackbird

Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird
Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird

Best Bite: While no dish was less than excellent, I was most wowed by the starter, a superbly delicate piece of smoked Arctic char. I loved the crunch from cauliflower and pear, and just enough meatiness from the tiny dollop of ‘nduja, a type of spreadable salami. It set the tone for the other unique flavor combinations to follow. See full menu.

Other notes: Gorgeous plating, quiet space, surprising main course accompaniments (onion noodles and buttermilk sauce to go with grilled sturgeon), and decadent dessert (an elegant Nutella-banana mash-up) with coffee service.

Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird
Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird

The details: Blackbird, 619 W Randolph St., Chicago.

Dinner at Carriage House

Crispy braised pork shoulder
Crispy braised pork shoulder entree, Carriage House

Best Bite: The entree best showed off the restaurant’s upscale take on low-country cuisine. The melt-in-your-mouth pork shoulder came with a host of balanced companions: smoked plums, pickled peppers, and celery hearts, atop grits and pork jus. With prevalent vinegar to cut through the richness, it was a pleasantly refined Southern dish. See full menu.

Other notes: Outstanding side of skillet cornbread, divine coffee-fudge dipping sauce for the beignets at dessert, tasty (and strong) rum punch, colorful ceramic dishware, and a table in the cozy porch area, with plaid flannel blankets over the chairs and plenty of candles.

Skillet cornbread, Carriage House
Skillet cornbread, Carriage House

The details: Carriage House, 1700 W Division St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Cauliflower pizza and gelato sundaes, Balena

Pizza with cauliflower, garlic crema, burrata, anchoïade
Pizza with cauliflower, garlic crema, burrata, anchoïade

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’m still daydreaming about an all-around outstanding dinner at Balena last night, in celebration of my roommate’s birthday, and could only narrow it down to these three favorite dishes. First, the pizza. The Neapolitan crust had the right amount of chew, and I loved the combination of garlicky cauliflower, gooey burrata (I admit, I’m a sucker for burrata), zingy preserved lemon, and underlying umami from the anchovy spread. But check out what’s on the plate underneath the pie: house-made Calabrian chili oil. Not only to add a little heat, but also to flavor those last topping-less bites of blistered crust? Game-changer. We made sure to request a to-go cup of chili oil to use on our leftover slices.

And then, there were the composed gelato sundaes. We had two – one of which came compliments of the kitchen with a birthday candle – and swooned over them both. The pistachio sundae was clean and unique, with delicate burnt orange. The rich, salty chocolate sundae, topped with peanut butter crumbles and the pastry chef’s version of “Magic Shell”, was making its menu debut that night; I have a feeling it’s not going anywhere. Each sundae also included a killer nougat candy component.

My new goal is to pair my next visit with a show at the Steppenwolf, right across the street.

Pistachio-orange gelato sundae
Pistachio-orange gelato sundae
Chocolate-peanut butter gelato sundae
Chocolate-peanut butter gelato sundae with “magic shell”

The details: Balena, 1633 N Halsted St., Chicago.

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Best Bites

This week’s Best Bite: Moroccan duck kefta tagine, Saffron

Moroccan duck kefta tagine, Saffron
Moroccan duck kefta tagine, Saffron

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: During a wintry mini-vacation in Minnesota this past weekend, our dinner at Saffron in downtown Minneapolis emerged as the clear dining highlight. In each shareable dish, we could detect a wealth of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences, down to details such as caramelized paprika butter or feta fondue. But the most impressive was this tagine, a North African stew with layers of bold flavors that had slowly melded together in the dish’s eponymous cooking vessel. The blurriness in the photo is from the steam that came off as the server removed the conical lid; we then broke and stirred in the egg yolks to make the sauce even silkier. The duck meatballs (kefta) were moist and well-seasoned, chickpeas added contrast, and the whole thing was both comforting and exotic. I’ll share more about my Minnesota adventures in an upcoming post!

The details: Saffron Restaurant & Lounge, 123 N 3rd St., Minneapolis, MN.

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Best Bites

This week’s Best Bite: Wild rice gratin

Wild rice gratin from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook
Wild rice gratin from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Unfortunately, this week was a little slow food-wise, as I’ve been trying to fight off a cold, but I consider this gratin noteworthy. Another selection from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, it’s brimming with hearty ingredients: wild rice, kale, sweet onion, and cheese (I subbed in gruyère instead of swiss), plus a breadcrumb topping. Next time, I would caramelize the onions a while longer, for maximum sweetness, and make sure I had enough kale to stand up to the grains and aromatics. Still, this first version was cozy and flavorful, just the kind of dish you want to be pulling out of the oven in the winter.

Prepping the gratin ingredients
Prepping the gratin ingredients

The details: Check out the Smitten Kitchen blog, and buy the cookbook on Amazon.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Fat Elvis waffles, Little Goat Diner

Fat Elvis waffles, Little Goat Diner
Fat Elvis waffles, Little Goat Diner

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’ll just say it: these waffles were crazy in the best way possible. It was the kind of New Year’s Eve brunch dish that said “2012, let’s send you out with a sweet, bacon-y bang.” The texture of the waffles was just dense enough, the bacon syrup and bananas were indulgent-yet-balanced toppings, and the peanut butter butter simply defied logic with its creaminess. Of course, the waffles were even better washed down with a couple cups of Stumptown Coffee, one of the best roasters around. I could only eat half in one sitting, but it also made for killer leftovers.

Needless to say, I’m already planning my next visit, as my dining partner and I found it very difficult to decide on just one dish from perhaps the most comprehensive, enticing, otherwise mind-boggling diner menu I’ve ever seen. From the food to the décor, mastermind Stephanie Izard nails every detail – just look at the wallpaper! We also stopped into Little Goat Bread, adjacent to the diner, and swooned over the gorgeous bar (espresso by day, liquor by night) and the ingenious idea of mixing Girl & the Goat’s “life-changing” green beans into cream cheese for bagels.

Stumptown coffee, Little Goat Diner
Stumptown coffee, Little Goat Diner

The details: Little Goat Diner, 820 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites

Recap: 30 Best Bites of 2012

All month long, I’ve been celebrating my best bites (and sips) of 2012. The full list of 30 appears below in chronological order – click the name of the dish to view its full post.

Roasted brussels sprouts
Roasted brussels sprouts

Hummingbird cake
Hummingbird cake

Peanut butter cookie dough vegan shake
Vegan shake

German chocolate pancakes
Pancakes

Paris benedict
Paris benedict

Chorizo-stuffed dates
Chorizo-stuffed dates

Red velvet cake
Red velvet cake

Ricotta and honeycomb
Ricotta and honeycomb

Ceviche
Ceviche

Garlic bread
Garlic bread

Mozzarella sticks
Mozzarella sticks

Baby octopus gyro
Baby octopus gyro

Kentucky-fried quail
Kentucky-fried quail

Chicken tacos
Chicken tacos

Smokey violet smash
Smokey violet smash

Ensalada Azteca
Ensalada Azteca

Fried bologna sandwich
Fried bologna sandwich

Summer crostini
Summer crostini

Mason jar cocktails
Mason jar cocktails

Jersey Shore pizza
Jersey Shore pizza

Ice cream sandwich
Ice cream sandwich

2x fried chicken
2x fried chicken

Breakfast burrito plate
Breakfast burrito plate

Spicy cheese bread
Spicy cheese bread

Sauerkraut bagel
Sauerkraut bagel

Pumpkin french toast
Pumpkin french toast

Popcorn cookies
Popcorn cookies

Aztec hot chocolate and churro
Hot chocolate and churro

Tea-smoked duck breast with steamed buns
Tea-smoked duck breast

Bagel sandwich
Bagel sandwich

 

Here’s to a great year of eating and drinking! Check back later this week for a look at what’s to come for hillaryproctor.com in 2013. Thanks for reading!

What were your favorite bites in 2012? Leave a note in the comments!

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #30: Bagel sandwich, Nightwood

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Bagel sandwich
Bagel sandwich

Why it’s a Best Bite: OK, I know this is my second bagel-related post this week, sorry. I just didn’t realize that you could consistently crave a dish you’ve only had once, but this bagel sandwich kept calling to me all year until I finally had it again right before heading home for the holidays. This is one of the very few items that Nightwood keeps on its seasonal brunch menu every Sunday, which I support wholeheartedly. Really, this sandwich has everything. It’s anchored by smoked trout cream cheese, mustardy slaw, and greens, then topped with the thick bacon and over-easy egg that breakfast dreams are made of. The three round tots and ketchup on the side are a satisfying bonus between bites of sandwich.

The details: Nightwood, 2119 S Halsted St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #29: Tea-smoked duck breast, Belly Q

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Tea-smoked duck breast with steamed buns
Tea-smoked duck breast with steamed buns

Why it’s a Best Bite: As a huge fan of Bill Kim’s other two restaurants, Urban Belly and Belly Shack, I knew his newest and largest would be just as special. I enjoyed every dish during my meal there a few weeks ago (don’t miss the doughnuts for dessert!), but this duck entree really showed boldness and finesse. Cooked to perfection, the smoky duck fit right in between familiar Asian barbecue and haute cuisine, and the pillowy steamed buns that came on the side were a delightful foil to the rich duck.

The details: Belly Q, 1400 W Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #28: Aztec hot chocolate and churro, Xoco

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Aztec hot chocolate and churro
Aztec hot chocolate and churro

Why it’s a Best Bite: Xoco is one of those places I want to take everyone who comes to Chicago – it showcases Rick Bayless’ renowned Mexican flavors, but is still accessible and quick. On this particular occasion, it was my mom and uncle who got to sample tortas and pozole over a late lunch. To me, though, you can’t leave Xoco without ordering two signature items: churros and hot chocolate. Airy and crisp, with lots of cinnamon-sugar and hints of corn from the flour, these churros are in a class of their own. The drinking chocolate, made from freshly ground Mexican cacao beans, comes in a few variations, but I favor the warm spices of the Aztec, with chile powder and allspice. This pair is among my very favorite treats in River North, and best of all, it’s justifiable any time of day.

The details: Xoco, 449 N Clark St., Chicago.

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Best Bites

2012 Best Bite #27: Popcorn cookies and deviled eggs, The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Popcorn cookies
Popcorn cookies
Deviled eggs
Deviled eggs

Why it’s a Best Bite: These were the first two recipes I made from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, the October debut from one of the very best food bloggers out there, Deb Perelman of SmittenKitchen.com. Her superbly written blog is my go-to when I don’t know what to cook, and she’s taught me the virtues of brown butter and fritters, among other delicious lessons. I made the deviled eggs for a holiday party, and loved the Spanish twist of smoked paprika and marcona almonds (though I admit that I used the bacon I had on hand instead of fancy Spanish ham). And while they may sound strange at first, the popcorn cookies made such a satisfying salty-sweet snack, especially from underbaking a little to leave the dough chewy. I was fortunate enough to meet Deb at a book signing and tell her in person how much I adored these cookies and her work.

The details: Check out the Smitten Kitchen blog, and buy the cookbook on Amazon.