Traditional lobster roll with tarragon mayo and garlic butter, Da Lobsta
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: The best part about this lobster roll was, somewhat predictably, the lobster. The generous portion of lobster piled onto the roll was left in substantial chunks, with the lavish touch of an entire claw on top. There wasn’t too much mayo – though the tarragon in it complemented the lobster nicely – and the drizzle of garlic butter recalled childhood memories of dunking hard-earned morsels of meat from a whole lobster into my personal dish of melted butter. It all came together on a roll that was slightly sweet and toasted to perfection. While I stuck to the traditional for my first visit, next time I would likely try branching out to the Asian, Greek, or Indian rolls.
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: The beautiful spring weather over the weekend called for a leisurely midday lunch, starting at a fairly new Korean place that I hadn’t tried yet and ending with dessert at a tried-and-true favorite. First up was En Hakkore, nestled in the heart of Bucktown. The small menu offers mostly traditional Korean dishes, with a few fusion-y twists, such as paratha tacos on fried Indian flatbread. My sashimi bibimbap, a stunning bowl of rice topped with more than a dozen kinds of vegetables and four varieties of sashimi, was nothing short of a work of art. Once it was all mixed together with housemade gochujang (Korean hot sauce), it wasn’t quite as pretty, but the fresh, bright flavors in each bite echoed the sunshine streaming through the windows. My dining companion went for a more typical bibimbap with bulgogi-style marinated beef, which was just as delicious.
Blueberry french toast and turkish coffee gelato, Black Dog Gelato
We could have ventured either direction on Damen Avenue to reach a Black Dog Gelato location, but ended up going north to the Roscoe Village outpost. I’ve been a Black Dog fan ever since I volunteered at the Luxury Ice Cream Festival four years ago and was assigned to help out owner Jessie Oloroso at her booth. From the first bite of salted peanut, one of her first signature flavors, I was hooked. Since then, the bold gelato has received nationwide attention, and now shows up on the dessert menu at restaurants all over the city. While I’m always content with Black Dog classics, such as goat cheese-cashew-caramel or malted vanilla, I usually go for whatever’s new and interesting that day. After a lot of tasting, I landed on a breakfast-inspired combination of cinnamon-scented blueberry french toast and cardamom-laced turkish coffee. So good. We’re right at the beginning of gelato season, so if you haven’t tasted this gelato yet, just go. And then go again.
The details:En Hakkore, 1840 N Damen Ave., Chicago; Black Dog Gelato, 859 N Damen Ave. and 1955 W. Belmont Ave., Chicago.
Ace burger with aged cheddar, trimmings, bacon jam, aioli, fries, garlic, and hops pickle
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I had heard excellent things about the burger at this laid-back gastropub on Taylor Street, and it was even more delicious than expected. A great burger starts with the meat, and the grass-fed beef used here was top-notch in flavor and juiciness. The aged cheddar, bacon jam, and aioli were simple yet powerful toppings, and any burger is better when served on a grilled pretzel bun that’s squishy without being too doughy. There’s nothing overly exotic going on, but it just exudes pure burger identity (with crispy fries on the side, of course). We divided the burger for sharing, as with the other plates we ordered; next time, I’m keeping it all for myself.
Check out more of this memorable meal in the photos below.
The Young Pretender cocktail, with Death’s Door Gin, fresh guava puree, fresh lime juice, pineapple juice, house-made cayenne and pepper simple syrup, and a float of Blackwell RumLamb merguez sausage pizzetta, served on a tree stumpCity view on my walk to the restaurantOur post-dinner plans: seeing Alicia Keys in concert at United Center
The details:Three Aces, 1321 W. Taylor St., Chicago.
Wood-grilled octopus with fennel and red onions (Htapodáki sti schára), Taxim
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: For me, this octopus dish was all about texture. While I had high expectations after everything I’d heard about this Wicker Park restaurant, chef David Schneider still blew me away by managing to eliminate every ounce of rubberiness from the octopus. It was almost closer to a firm crab meat, unlike any octopus I’ve ever tasted. The smokiness from the grill seemed to evoke the essence of Greek cuisine, with the well-caramelized fennel, onion, and peppers adding aromatic depth. Even a couple of my friends who were octopus-shy enjoyed their bites! The dish was in good company with smoky eggplant dip, fried cauliflower, and other excellent savory and sweet plates, but it remained the star of the meal.
Arches and light fixtures inside TaximCocktail with Greek grape brandy, honey, and lemon, served warm
The details:Taxim, 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
Dark & Stormy cupcakes with rum cream cheese frosting and lime zest
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I made these cupcakes for a dear friend and coworker’s birthday this past week, in honor of a cocktail that we love to drink together. If you’ve never had one, a Dark & Stormy combines dark rum and ginger beer (or ginger ale, in a pinch), and is usually garnished with lime. I figured that these flavors would translate well into a cupcake, and through a bit of Googling, discovered that I wasn’t the first to have this idea. I went with the recipe that represented the two primary flavors with two distinct batters: one darker, with fresh ginger and molasses, and one lighter, with rum and citrus (I subbed in lime for lemon to stick with the traditional garnish). I finished the cupcakes off with cream cheese frosting – with more rum, of course – and a little more lime zest on top (the recipe called for crystallized ginger, but I’ve found that to be a little harsh for the less ginger-enthused, and the zest is more colorful anyway). I was very pleased that the cupcake really did seem to capture the cocktail. The cake stayed moist throughout, the cream cheese added richness, and all the flavors married together well. I got a lot of positive feedback from my coworkers too! You’ll find more photos of the baking process below.
Cupcake ingredientsLots of lime zestDark ginger and light rum battersBoth batters are inFresh out of the oven and ready for frosting
Maple pancakes with meyer lemon custard, Indian sugar brûlée & citrus rind conserve, JamShrimp, grits, hunter gravy & tasso, Carriage House
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I had two excellent brunch dishes this week, and they were different enough – apart from their color scheme, apparently – that it was too difficult to choose a favorite. On the sweeter side, these citrusy pancakes from Jam were like a light lemon crème brûlée with a maple foundation from the cake itself. The toasty sugar and candied rind added great crunch…and don’t even get me started on the bacon-sausage I ordered on the side (that’s right: sausage made from bacon). I think I liked these even better than the decadent chocolate ones I featured from last year – and I also promise that Jam has more than just pancakes!
On the savory side, these shrimp and grits from Carriage House, which I first visited during Restaurant Week, were just the classic I was hoping for. The head-on shrimp were nicely cooked, the grits were creamy, and the gravy didn’t skimp on smoky, meaty flavor. I was also satisfied with the portion size, especially since we couldn’t pass up a little skillet cornbread on the side (I still can’t figure out their secret, but it is delicious).
I fight the sweet vs. savory battle on every brunch menu. Savory usually wins, so I’m glad that in this case, I can call it a tie.
The details:Jam, 3057 W Logan Blvd., Chicago; Carriage House, 1700 W Division St., Chicago.
Trio of pickles: Charlie’s peanuts, sichuan eggplant, and ginger lime cauliflower
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’d been anxious to try this restaurant for months now, totally intrigued by the idea of blending Portuguese, Macau, and other global street-food influences, and further convinced by the owners’ other ventures – much-lauded underground dinners and irresistibly delicious nuts that are beloved at my neighborhood farmers’ market. Perhaps predictably at this point, I was so blown away by the whole meal that I couldn’t pick just one best bite. I loved my cocktail, sweetened by vanilla and tamarind with a licorice kick from star anise. I loved the colorful trio of pickles, giving eggplant, peanuts, and cauliflower a new sweet-and-sour character. I loved the potstickers, with an eye-catching lattice of crispy dough still holding them together on the plate, and the silky, spicy pumpkin soup. There was enough going on in the fat noodles and Portuguese chicken to keep my palate constantly engaged, and the serradura dessert’s dreamy guava-banana layers made for spoonful after spoonful of happiness.
We did pass on the eponymous fat rice dish, which can be ordered as a prix-fixe meal with soup, vegetable, and dessert, so I already have a built-in excuse to go back. If you go, plan to arrive as close to the 6 p.m. opening time as possible (or even join the line that forms beforehand) to avoid long waits in the already crowded space.
Callan Club, with rum, tamarind, vanilla, and star anisePumpkin soup with tofu, mushrooms, fried bread, and calamansi picklePork and shrimp potstickersFat noodle with X.O. saucePortuguese chicken with mussels, mild curry, parrano, coconut, and chorizoSerradura dessert, with guava, banana, sweet cream, and cookie crumb
The details:Fat Rice, 2957 W Diversey Ave., Chicago.
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was overjoyed by this unique take on eggs benedict on a recent weekday morning. The poached eggs sit atop cheddar jasmine rice cakes, crispy on the outside and cheesy on the inside, with hollandaise, pico de gallo, and black beans to tie it together. Large pieces of grilled pineapple and red pepper also make a statement as garnishes, joined by a pleasant arugula salad. It’s filling and a little exotic, meant to be enjoyed with coffee and a good read (in my case, the never-ending quest to catch up on magazines).
Sunny interior, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen
Walking into Grandma J’s is like stepping into someone’s living room, mismatched furniture and all. Bold art, antique photos, and knick-knacks huddle under the colorful fabric panels that adorn the ceiling, and an armoire surrounded by wall-mounted clocks holds an array of hot sauces, a gentle reminder that it’s still a restaurant. The service is casual and friendly, and the open kitchen makes it feel like you’re pulling up a stool to watch Grandma cook (if Grandma was younger, with hipster sensibilities). It’s tucked away in Humboldt Park, a block from my old apartment – I so wish it had opened while I still lived there, as it would have been a dream to have brunch like this within walking distance. If you go, make sure to also stop for a treat at 100-year-old Roeser’s Bakery, just across North Avenue.
Mason jars and cozy details, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen
This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.
Lunch at Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Endive and blue cheese salad with almonds and membrillo, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Best Bite: The generously portioned endive salad was a unique start to our lively meal. Amid the tang of blue cheese and vinaigrette, I especially appreciated the membrillo (sweet quince paste) and marcona almonds. Colorful, too – especially with my pomegranate mimosa as a backdrop. See full menu.
Other notes: Definitely the best value of the week, with soup, bread, cold tapas, warm tapas, and dessert for the $22 lunch price – it was the first time I took home leftovers! Speaking of the soup, it was creamy, comforting mushroom, with a manchego toast that made it feel almost like a Spanish version of french onion soup. Also enjoyed my petite caramelized banana dessert, with lots of crushed pistachios. Cheerful, bustling atmosphere as always.
Mushroom soup with manchego toast, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Miso-bronzed black cod with red curry and glazed eggplant, Sunda
Best Bite: So many fun courses at Sunda, but I couldn’t get enough of this miso-bronzed black cod. Don’t let its plain appearance fool you: the buttery fish was ultra-flavorful from the miso and red curry, and the glazed eggplant underneath was a revelation for this eggplant skeptic. It also served as a nice contrast to pork belly sticks in the previous course, and left enough room for me to enjoy my chocolate mousse for dessert. See full menu.
Other notes: Besides the great food, our group of 8 also thoroughly relished Sunda’s exotic cocktails. Of all the varieties, the Grass Tiger (below) was the clear winner for me. I adored the heat of jalapeño-infused gin with cool ginger beer, mint, lemongrass, and more citrus. You can even check out the restaurant’s Vine video of a bartender mixing this delicious drink.
Grass Tiger cocktail with jalapeño-infused gin and ginger beer, Sunda
Best Bite: When I saw all the game meat featured on Frontier’s gastropub-y menu, I knew I’d go straight for the wild boar chop. I loved the flavors of the meat and sauce, and with the sweet potato puree, toasted marshmallow, and crispy kale, it was basically a hunter’s Thanksgiving. See full menu.
Other notes: Duck tacos and antelope meatballs with gnocchi were both tasty starters, and Frontier pulled off its s’more dessert with just the right level of char and melty chocolate. Great beers and cozy fireplace too.
S’more, Frontier
The details:Frontier, 1072 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.
Dinner at Vermilion
Mango-cardamom flan, Vermilion
Best Bite: I was partial to dessert, a mango-cardamom flan that made for a creamy, aromatic finish to our Latin-Indian fusion meal. The lychee and tart cranberry garnishes set off the flan nicely, though I wish there had been more than one piece of lychee. See full menu.
Other notes: Also enjoyed the caldeirada de peixe (Brazilian seafood stew), loaded with seafood and the right amount of heat, and artichoke pakoras made a nice, street food-inspired starter. Service was a little off, though, and the setup of the menu itself wasn’t the best value – an $11 upgrade to normal entree portions made the tasting almost cost more than the sum of the courses. Liked the lighting and red decor.
Brazilian seafood stew with tomato rice, Vermilion
Best Bite: This one was a tie. My entree’s gnocchi were impossibly fluffy, perhaps the best texture of any gnocchi I’ve tasted, with a meaty ragu that wasn’t too thick. And then there were the bomboloni, a heavenly trio of Italian doughnuts for dessert. Again, I was impressed by the airy texture (they weren’t greasy at all!) and the apple-cinnamon compote and poppyseed sugar recalled all the comfort of cider doughnuts from my local orchard growing up – just in a more refined package. See full menu.
Other notes: Lovely first-course ribollita soup, with tomatoes, kale, and cannellini beans. Excellent service and pleasant view of Michigan Avenue and the lake, even on a gray, slushy day.
Bomboloni with apple-cinnamon compote, Cafe Spiaggia
The details:Cafe Spiaggia, 980 N Michigan Ave., Chicago.
