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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Salt-crusted branzino, grilled ramps & more, Nico Osteria

Grilled octopus fettunta, Nico Osteria
Grilled octopus fettunta with favetta, grapefruit, and preserved lemon

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Nico has been near the top of my list since it opened late last year, having already earned local and national accolades that are now becoming routine for Paul Kahan’s restaurants. We began the evening on the patio facing bustling Rush Street and snacked on a grilled octopus fettunta (Nico’s term for grilled bread with toppings, much like bruschetta) that was bejeweled by grapefruit and preserved lemon for double the acidity. It was lovely alongside my Venus in Furs cocktail, smoky and refreshing on such a muggy evening.

Venus in Furs cocktail, Nico Osteria
Venus in Furs cocktail with aperol, mezcal, velvet falernum, lime juice, and campari, on the Nico patio

Before we knew it, a thunderstorm had set in and we were quickly moved inside to the bar. It wasn’t long before a pristine whole branzino arrived, salt-crusted and studded with tender forest mushrooms and sweet zante currants. The fish was buttery and perfectly flaky, although it’s worth noting that Gold Coast prices make it expensive enough to be more of a special-occasion centerpiece. And on the side, a tangle of grilled ramps reminded me why their short season is so cherished. Their mild onion flavor melted beautifully into the salt-cod crema, with crunch from almonds and lingering char from the grill.

Salt-crusted branzino and grilled ramps, Nico Osteria
Salt-crusted branzino with forest mushrooms and zante currants; grilled ramps with salt cod crema and almonds

And we couldn’t skip dessert – not when pastry chef Amanda Rockman is hailed as one of the city’s best and is responsible for such masterpieces as Balena’s gelato sundaes. While I loved the affogato – espresso poured over cardamom-sweet cream gelato for a “dirty chai” effect – I was even more impressed by the Nico torte. It was like eating all the best lemon desserts at the same time: the crusty bottom of the cake with lemon filling soaked inside evoked a lemon bar, but together with the poppyseed gelato, it transformed into a muffin; add in the pickled blueberries and lemon curd on the plate, and it became a summer parfait. The Nico torte changes seasonally, so I’ll have to return for more variations.

Nico torte, Nico Osteria
Nico torte with lemon, pickled blueberry, ginger, and citrus poppyseed gelato

The details: Nico Osteria, 1015 N. Rush St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Spring pea tart and First Base cocktail, The Dawson

Spring pea tart, The Dawson
Spring pea tart with fromage blanc mousse, garden salad, and almond cracker

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Spring peas rank right up there with ramps on the list of spring ingredients I look forward to most, so I jumped at the chance to eat them in tart form on my first visit to The Dawson in River West. The frosty tart layered almond, fromage blanc, and peas into a creamy orb, brightened up by lemon and mint. It was topped with more spring favorites – fava beans, radish, pea shoots – to form a stunningly fresh starter.

First Base cocktail, The Dawson
First Base cocktail with Reyka vodka, white port, white grape, St. Germain, Bittermens Boston Bittahs, and lemon

To drink, I had the First Base, one of the newest additions to the cocktail menu. I rarely order drinks made with vodka, but there was something about the combination of port, St. Germain, and white grape that intrigued me. The drink was crisp, clean, and a little sweet, reminiscent of a boozy frozen grape. It paired well with the chilled tart. The Dawson also boasts a large enclosed patio, with wooden trellises, intricate tile, and even a fireplace centerpiece. Sadly, however, the weather didn’t cooperate, so we had to gaze longingly through the windows. I’ll definitely be back on a warmer evening to nab a seat out there.

The details: The Dawson, 730 W. Grand Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Smoked trout sandwich, The Winchester

Smoked trout sandwich, The Winchester
Smoked trout sandwich with fennel, mascarpone, honey, and lavender

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Simplicity reigns at the Winchester, a neighborhood café that opened a few months ago on the street of the same name. As I perused the clean, uncomplicated menu, the smoked trout sandwich jumped out immediately. What stood out most within the first few bites was the textural contrast of the trout, its crispy skin and flaky flesh intermingling in a way almost reminiscent of sardines. The other aromatic components – fennel, mascarpone, honey, and lavender – lent a sweet and floral complexity, joining the trout inside plump bread that fell somewhere between a pretzel roll and a split-top bun. I also love that this photo captures the sunlight through the window, because the natural light streaming into the airy, minimalist space was what made the atmosphere especially lovely during my lunch.

The details: The Winchester, 1001 N. Winchester, Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: pulled pork, pickles two ways, and moonshine, Lillie’s Q

Fried pickles and kool-aid pickles, Lillie's Q
Pickles two ways: beer-battered with ranch, and marinated in cherry kool-aid

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: The stakes were a little higher than usual at this recent meal: I was challenged to prove to a skeptical Memphian that there’s good barbecue to be found in Chicago. With my reputation on the line, I had faith that two restaurants in particular would meet the lofty standards of someone who hails from a BBQ capital: Lillie’s Q and Smoque (which will be phase two). After our party secured a window table at Lillie’s, we started with two preparations of pickles. The fried pickles came in substantial beer-battered slices – they almost looked more like fried oysters – alongside a thin ranch dipping sauce. While they were a solid snack, what really earned the seal of Southern authenticity was the jar of fiery red kool-aid pickles, sweet from a cherry kool-aid marinade and spicy on the finish. As conversation turned to tales of childhood nostalgia, I knew we were already on the right track.

Pulled pork and collard greens, Lillie's Q
Half-pound of pulled pork (pre-sauce) and collard greens with ham hock

The real test, of course, was the meat. The half-pound portion of pulled pork was as smoky and perfect on its own as I’d remembered, but I couldn’t resist splashing bites with almost every one of the diverse sauces (it also reminded me to replenish my own fridge, where I consistently stock either the Smoky or Carolina retail varieties). My generous side of greens provided a welcome vinegary contrast, and the potent moonshine cocktails were a fitting libation. I’m proud (and relieved) to report that Lillie’s Q passed the test, so my credibility remains intact.

Moonshine, Lillie's Q
A few variations on moonshine: blueberry, apple pie, and just neat

The details: Lillie’s Q, 1856 W. North Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Open-faced breakfast burger, Grange Hall Burger Bar

Open-faced breakfast burger, Grange Hall Burger Bar
Open-faced breakfast burger with grass-fed beef burger, cinnamon-raisin french toast, canadian and applewood bacon, maple syrup, sharp cheddar, and sunny-side-up egg

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’ve blogged about my sweet-savory brunch dilemma before, and it remains my most difficult decision on any morning menu. So if there’s a dish that combines both in one, you can bet I’ll be ordering it. Only available on the weekend Farmer’s Breakfast menu, this open-faced burger immediately reminded me of a gourmet, locally sourced, next-level McGriddle (in a good way, of course). It packs three kinds of meat – canadian bacon, applewood bacon, and the grass-fed beef patty – plus cheddar and an chive-flecked egg, all atop a slice of syrup-soaked cinnamon-raisin french toast. While it’s certainly decadent, the portion is still manageable and satisfied every brunch craving at once. The setting is just as pleasant: from the cheery red door flanked by fresh tulips to the farm-themed decor throughout the restaurant, I felt right at home.

Grange Hall Burger Bar entrance
A weathered red door and fresh tulips at the entrance set off the farm décor

The details: Grange Hall Burger Bar, 844 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Chicken & andouille gumbo and Best in Show cocktail, Analogue

Chicken and andouille gumbo, Analogue
Gumbo with Gunthorp chicken, house andouille, and potato salad

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Analogue, a fairly new addition to my neighborhood, has introduced me to a combination I never knew my life was missing until now: craft cocktails paired with authentic Cajun food (in other words, just one more reason to love living in Logan Square). On the cocktail side, the Best in Show had the citrusy tang and foamy egg white crown of a Pisco sour, plus a heavy dose of cinnamon. It had sweetness and complexity that made it exciting to drink – although that probably was to be expected from the Violet Hour veterans who are behind the drinks here. Meanwhile, the standout dish was a Cajun classic: gumbo with tender chicken, house-made andouille sausage, okra, and a small dollop of potato salad, which I later learned was the result of German influence on Creole traditions. The moderate heat and blackened, smoky base notes in the meaty broth were what really kept me going back for more spoonfuls.

Best in Show cocktail, Analogue
Best in Show cocktail with Encanto Grand & Noble Pisco, cream sherry, lime, cinnamon syrup, and egg white

The details: Analogue, 2523 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Soft-scrambled eggs, salmon tartare & grilled mushrooms, Kinmont

Soft-scrambled eggs, Kinmont
Soft-scrambled eggs with smoked Lake Superior whitefish, salmon roe, chives, and country bread

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was excited to try Kinmont, a new seafood place that recently opened just blocks from my office, and certainly support the restaurant’s commitment to serving entirely sustainable fish. I’d already heard great things about the soft-scrambled eggs; and sure enough, the eggs’ texture was creamy and light without being runny, perfect for spreading on the thick country bread. The eggs were also studded with both smoked whitefish and salmon roe, a double-punch of seafood flavor. Another favorite, the Skuna bay salmon tartare, covered a more Nordic flavor profile: fresh fish intermingled with mustard, cornichon, egg, and lots of dill. The tartare was served with sturdy, herbaceous flatbread that had great crunch.

Salmon tartare, Kinmont
Skuna Bay salmon tartare with cornichons, shallots, mustard, and crisp bread

We also wanted to try one of the vegetable sides, and were immediately intrigued by the pairing of grilled mushrooms and smoked ricotta. The char from the grill and the smoky, rich ricotta played off each other to give the woody mushrooms surprising depth, and a generous shower of lemon zest added brightness.

Mushrooms, Kinmont
Grilled mushrooms with smoked buttermilk ricotta and lemon

The details: Kinmont, 419 W. Superior, Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Belly dog with togarashi fries, Belly Shack

Belly dog with togarashi fries, Belly Shack
Belly dog, an all-beef hot dog with with egg noodles, pickled green papaya, and togarashi-spiced fries

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was a little shocked to realize that I haven’t blogged about Belly Shack yet, since it’s one of my very favorite places to eat and a go-to recommendation for pretty much anyone. It’s a casual, inexpensive BYOB spot right underneath the Blue Line with a menu that’s the perfect fusion of Latin and Asian (Chef Bill Kim is Korean, and wife and co-owner Yvonne is Puerto Rican). I’m also going to admit that even in such a hot dog-obsessed town, this off-the-wall Belly dog might be tops in my book. Piled high with egg noodles, fried shallots, pickled papaya, and a smear of curry mayo, the dog is a messy affair, even despite its sturdy roll. But the spicy, creamy, crunchy tangle of flavors is well worth it. And I don’t know what it is about the togarashi seasoning that’s both on the fries and in the extra curry mayo dipping sauce, but it is absolutely addictive. It’s salty and funky, and works wonderfully with heaps of lime zest to take the crispy fries to a whole new level.

The details: Belly Shack, 1912 N. Western Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Peanut butter & jelly brioche sticky bun, A10

Peanut butter and jelly brioche sticky bun
Peanut butter and jelly brioche sticky bun

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: We technically visited Hyde Park newcomer A10 during Restaurant Week, but since we didn’t go for the three-course menu, I wanted to save this for a separate (albeit delayed) post. This pastry capped off a rich, seafood-heavy Sunday brunch. Besides its sheer beauty in the afternoon sun, the sticky bun was a knockout in flavor, its swirl of peanut butter brioche dough covered in bright elderberry syrup and powdered sugar. The dough was on the lighter, crispier side, which made it feel even more like a high-end peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich. It’s safe to say that whenever I return to A10 for dinner, I’ll definitely be ordering dessert.

The details: A10, 1462 E. 53rd St., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Mon Ami Gabi

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Mon Ami Gabi

Steak frites with sauce au poivre
Steak frites with sauce au poivre

Best Bite: When it comes to French bistro fare, steak frites is about as classic as it gets, and this version was transportive. The well-seasoned steak was a tender medium-rare, the frites were especially crispy, and the peppery sauce was rich with just enough creaminess. The mini dessert trio was just as well executed, though; and I was certainly relieved to not have to choose between mousse and crème brûlée. See full menu.

Dessert trio with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée, and meyer lemon sorbet
Dessert trio with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée, and meyer lemon sorbet

Other notes: The oven-roasted escargots were an indulgent start to the meal, but perhaps even better was dipping pieces of our still-hot baguette into the leftover garlic-herb butter. I couldn’t let those remnants go to waste! The cozy bistro environs were perfect for discussing exciting upcoming travel plans with two girlfriends, especially over a food-friendly Côtes du Rhône red.

Piping hot baguette to start the meal
Piping hot baguette to start the meal

The details: Mon Ami Gabi, 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, Chicago.

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