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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: The Kedzie breakfast, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

The Kedzie, Grandma J's Local Kitchen
The Kedzie, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was overjoyed by this unique take on eggs benedict on a recent weekday morning. The poached eggs sit atop cheddar jasmine rice cakes, crispy on the outside and cheesy on the inside, with hollandaise, pico de gallo, and black beans to tie it together. Large pieces of grilled pineapple and red pepper also make a statement as garnishes, joined by a pleasant arugula salad. It’s filling and a little exotic, meant to be enjoyed with coffee and a good read (in my case, the never-ending quest to catch up on magazines).

Sunny interior, Grandma J's Local Kitchen
Sunny interior, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

Walking into Grandma J’s is like stepping into someone’s living room, mismatched furniture and all. Bold art, antique photos, and knick-knacks huddle under the colorful fabric panels that adorn the ceiling, and an armoire surrounded by wall-mounted clocks holds an array of hot sauces, a gentle reminder that it’s still a restaurant. The service is casual and friendly, and the open kitchen makes it feel like you’re pulling up a stool to watch Grandma cook (if Grandma was younger, with hipster sensibilities). It’s tucked away in Humboldt Park, a block from my old apartment – I so wish it had opened while I still lived there, as it would have been a dream to have brunch like this within walking distance. If you go, make sure to also stop for a treat at 100-year-old Roeser’s Bakery, just across North Avenue.

Mason jars and cozy details, Grandma J's Local Kitchen
Mason jars and cozy details, Grandma J’s Local Kitchen

The details: Grandma J’s Local Kitchen, 1552 N Kedzie Ave., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba, Sunda, and Frontier

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Lunch at Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

Endive salad with blue cheese and almonds, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Endive and blue cheese salad with almonds and membrillo, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

Best Bite: The generously portioned endive salad was a unique start to our lively meal. Amid the tang of blue cheese and vinaigrette, I especially appreciated the membrillo (sweet quince paste) and marcona almonds. Colorful, too – especially with my pomegranate mimosa as a backdrop. See full menu.

Other notes: Definitely the best value of the week, with soup, bread, cold tapas, warm tapas, and dessert for the $22 lunch price – it was the first time I took home leftovers! Speaking of the soup, it was creamy, comforting mushroom, with a manchego toast that made it feel almost like a Spanish version of french onion soup. Also enjoyed my petite caramelized banana dessert, with lots of crushed pistachios. Cheerful, bustling atmosphere as always.

Mushroom soup with manchego toast, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba
Mushroom soup with manchego toast, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

The details: Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba, 2024 N Halsted St., Chicago.

Dinner at Sunda

Miso-bronzed black cod with red curry and glazed eggplant, Sunda
Miso-bronzed black cod with red curry and glazed eggplant, Sunda

Best Bite: So many fun courses at Sunda, but I couldn’t get enough of this miso-bronzed black cod. Don’t let its plain appearance fool you: the buttery fish was ultra-flavorful from the miso and red curry, and the glazed eggplant underneath was a revelation for this eggplant skeptic. It also served as a nice contrast to pork belly sticks in the previous course, and left enough room for me to enjoy my chocolate mousse for dessert. See full menu.

Other notes: Besides the great food, our group of 8 also thoroughly relished Sunda’s exotic cocktails. Of all the varieties, the Grass Tiger (below) was the clear winner for me. I adored the heat of jalapeño-infused gin with cool ginger beer, mint, lemongrass, and more citrus. You can even check out the restaurant’s Vine video of a bartender mixing this delicious drink.

Grass Tiger cocktail, Sunda
Grass Tiger cocktail with jalapeño-infused gin and ginger beer, Sunda

The details: Sunda, 110 W Illinois St., Chicago.

Dinner at Frontier

Wild boar chop with sweet potato puree, Frontier
Wild boar chop with sweet potato puree, Frontier

Best Bite: When I saw all the game meat featured on Frontier’s gastropub-y menu, I knew I’d go straight for the wild boar chop. I loved the flavors of the meat and sauce, and with the sweet potato puree, toasted marshmallow, and crispy kale, it was basically a hunter’s Thanksgiving. See full menu.

Other notes: Duck tacos and antelope meatballs with gnocchi were both tasty starters, and Frontier pulled off its s’more dessert with just the right level of char and melty chocolate. Great beers and cozy fireplace too.

S'more, Frontier
S’more, Frontier

The details: Frontier, 1072 N Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Vermilion and Cafe Spiaggia

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Dinner at Vermilion

Mango-cardamom flan, Vermilion
Mango-cardamom flan, Vermilion

Best Bite: I was partial to dessert, a mango-cardamom flan that made for a creamy, aromatic finish to our Latin-Indian fusion meal. The lychee and tart cranberry garnishes set off the flan nicely, though I wish there had been more than one piece of lychee. See full menu.

Other notes: Also enjoyed the caldeirada de peixe (Brazilian seafood stew), loaded with seafood and the right amount of heat, and artichoke pakoras made a nice, street food-inspired starter. Service was a little off, though, and the setup of the menu itself wasn’t the best value – an $11 upgrade to normal entree portions made the tasting almost cost more than the sum of the courses. Liked the lighting and red decor.

Brazilian seafood stew with tomato rice, Vermilion
Brazilian seafood stew with tomato rice, Vermilion

The details: Vermilion, 10 W Hubbard St., Chicago.

Lunch at Cafe Spiaggia

Gnocchi with pork and beef ragu, Cafe Spiaggia
Gnocchi with pork and beef ragu, Cafe Spiaggia

Best Bite: This one was a tie. My entree’s gnocchi were impossibly fluffy, perhaps the best texture of any gnocchi I’ve tasted, with a meaty ragu that wasn’t too thick. And then there were the bomboloni, a heavenly trio of Italian doughnuts for dessert. Again, I was impressed by the airy texture (they weren’t greasy at all!) and the apple-cinnamon compote and poppyseed sugar recalled all the comfort of cider doughnuts from my local orchard growing up – just in a more refined package. See full menu.

Other notes: Lovely first-course ribollita soup, with tomatoes, kale, and cannellini beans. Excellent service and pleasant view of Michigan Avenue and the lake, even on a gray, slushy day.

Bomboloni with apple-cinnamon compote, Cafe Spiaggia
Bomboloni with apple-cinnamon compote, Cafe Spiaggia

The details: Cafe Spiaggia, 980 N Michigan Ave., Chicago.

Categories
Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2013: Blackbird and Carriage House

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week, held February 1–10, 2013.

Lunch at Blackbird

Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird
Smoked Arctic char appetizer, Blackbird

Best Bite: While no dish was less than excellent, I was most wowed by the starter, a superbly delicate piece of smoked Arctic char. I loved the crunch from cauliflower and pear, and just enough meatiness from the tiny dollop of ‘nduja, a type of spreadable salami. It set the tone for the other unique flavor combinations to follow. See full menu.

Other notes: Gorgeous plating, quiet space, surprising main course accompaniments (onion noodles and buttermilk sauce to go with grilled sturgeon), and decadent dessert (an elegant Nutella-banana mash-up) with coffee service.

Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird
Chocolate hazelnut bread pudding dessert, Blackbird

The details: Blackbird, 619 W Randolph St., Chicago.

Dinner at Carriage House

Crispy braised pork shoulder
Crispy braised pork shoulder entree, Carriage House

Best Bite: The entree best showed off the restaurant’s upscale take on low-country cuisine. The melt-in-your-mouth pork shoulder came with a host of balanced companions: smoked plums, pickled peppers, and celery hearts, atop grits and pork jus. With prevalent vinegar to cut through the richness, it was a pleasantly refined Southern dish. See full menu.

Other notes: Outstanding side of skillet cornbread, divine coffee-fudge dipping sauce for the beignets at dessert, tasty (and strong) rum punch, colorful ceramic dishware, and a table in the cozy porch area, with plaid flannel blankets over the chairs and plenty of candles.

Skillet cornbread, Carriage House
Skillet cornbread, Carriage House

The details: Carriage House, 1700 W Division St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Cauliflower pizza and gelato sundaes, Balena

Pizza with cauliflower, garlic crema, burrata, anchoïade
Pizza with cauliflower, garlic crema, burrata, anchoïade

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’m still daydreaming about an all-around outstanding dinner at Balena last night, in celebration of my roommate’s birthday, and could only narrow it down to these three favorite dishes. First, the pizza. The Neapolitan crust had the right amount of chew, and I loved the combination of garlicky cauliflower, gooey burrata (I admit, I’m a sucker for burrata), zingy preserved lemon, and underlying umami from the anchovy spread. But check out what’s on the plate underneath the pie: house-made Calabrian chili oil. Not only to add a little heat, but also to flavor those last topping-less bites of blistered crust? Game-changer. We made sure to request a to-go cup of chili oil to use on our leftover slices.

And then, there were the composed gelato sundaes. We had two – one of which came compliments of the kitchen with a birthday candle – and swooned over them both. The pistachio sundae was clean and unique, with delicate burnt orange. The rich, salty chocolate sundae, topped with peanut butter crumbles and the pastry chef’s version of “Magic Shell”, was making its menu debut that night; I have a feeling it’s not going anywhere. Each sundae also included a killer nougat candy component.

My new goal is to pair my next visit with a show at the Steppenwolf, right across the street.

Pistachio-orange gelato sundae
Pistachio-orange gelato sundae
Chocolate-peanut butter gelato sundae
Chocolate-peanut butter gelato sundae with “magic shell”

The details: Balena, 1633 N Halsted St., Chicago.

Categories
Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Fat Elvis waffles, Little Goat Diner

Fat Elvis waffles, Little Goat Diner
Fat Elvis waffles, Little Goat Diner

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’ll just say it: these waffles were crazy in the best way possible. It was the kind of New Year’s Eve brunch dish that said “2012, let’s send you out with a sweet, bacon-y bang.” The texture of the waffles was just dense enough, the bacon syrup and bananas were indulgent-yet-balanced toppings, and the peanut butter butter simply defied logic with its creaminess. Of course, the waffles were even better washed down with a couple cups of Stumptown Coffee, one of the best roasters around. I could only eat half in one sitting, but it also made for killer leftovers.

Needless to say, I’m already planning my next visit, as my dining partner and I found it very difficult to decide on just one dish from perhaps the most comprehensive, enticing, otherwise mind-boggling diner menu I’ve ever seen. From the food to the décor, mastermind Stephanie Izard nails every detail – just look at the wallpaper! We also stopped into Little Goat Bread, adjacent to the diner, and swooned over the gorgeous bar (espresso by day, liquor by night) and the ingenious idea of mixing Girl & the Goat’s “life-changing” green beans into cream cheese for bagels.

Stumptown coffee, Little Goat Diner
Stumptown coffee, Little Goat Diner

The details: Little Goat Diner, 820 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #30: Bagel sandwich, Nightwood

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Bagel sandwich
Bagel sandwich

Why it’s a Best Bite: OK, I know this is my second bagel-related post this week, sorry. I just didn’t realize that you could consistently crave a dish you’ve only had once, but this bagel sandwich kept calling to me all year until I finally had it again right before heading home for the holidays. This is one of the very few items that Nightwood keeps on its seasonal brunch menu every Sunday, which I support wholeheartedly. Really, this sandwich has everything. It’s anchored by smoked trout cream cheese, mustardy slaw, and greens, then topped with the thick bacon and over-easy egg that breakfast dreams are made of. The three round tots and ketchup on the side are a satisfying bonus between bites of sandwich.

The details: Nightwood, 2119 S Halsted St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #29: Tea-smoked duck breast, Belly Q

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Tea-smoked duck breast with steamed buns
Tea-smoked duck breast with steamed buns

Why it’s a Best Bite: As a huge fan of Bill Kim’s other two restaurants, Urban Belly and Belly Shack, I knew his newest and largest would be just as special. I enjoyed every dish during my meal there a few weeks ago (don’t miss the doughnuts for dessert!), but this duck entree really showed boldness and finesse. Cooked to perfection, the smoky duck fit right in between familiar Asian barbecue and haute cuisine, and the pillowy steamed buns that came on the side were a delightful foil to the rich duck.

The details: Belly Q, 1400 W Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #28: Aztec hot chocolate and churro, Xoco

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Aztec hot chocolate and churro
Aztec hot chocolate and churro

Why it’s a Best Bite: Xoco is one of those places I want to take everyone who comes to Chicago – it showcases Rick Bayless’ renowned Mexican flavors, but is still accessible and quick. On this particular occasion, it was my mom and uncle who got to sample tortas and pozole over a late lunch. To me, though, you can’t leave Xoco without ordering two signature items: churros and hot chocolate. Airy and crisp, with lots of cinnamon-sugar and hints of corn from the flour, these churros are in a class of their own. The drinking chocolate, made from freshly ground Mexican cacao beans, comes in a few variations, but I favor the warm spices of the Aztec, with chile powder and allspice. This pair is among my very favorite treats in River North, and best of all, it’s justifiable any time of day.

The details: Xoco, 449 N Clark St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2012 Best Bite #26: Pumpkin french toast, Lula Cafe

Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.

Pumpkin french toast
Pumpkin french toast

Why it’s a Best Bite: I feel very fortunate that Lula is the closest restaurant to my apartment, and that I have enjoyed so many wonderful dishes there in the past year. I chose to highlight this french toast because it exemplifies what I can always expect from brunch (or any other meal) there: the season’s best sustainable ingredients prepared with consistent, exacting technique. The brioche took on more of a bread pudding consistency, crunchy on top and custard-soaked inside, which made the chantilly cream on top all the more decadent. With cranberry jam for acidity, pumpkin seed granola for crunch, and of course, the bed of sweet pumpkin underneath the toast, this dish screamed fall in the best way.

The details: Lula Cafe, 2537 N Kedzie Ave., Chicago.