Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: For my birthday this year, I chose a 20-course tasting at Elizabeth Restaurant as my celebratory meal of choice. Elizabeth uses the same booking system as Next and Alinea, so instead of just making a reservation, I bought tickets that covered food, tax, and gratuity for a specific date and time – and thankfully, three of my closest friends were willing to chip in and come along for the tasting menu experience. The inconspicuous storefront was tucked away next to a tire shop in Lincoln Square, but inside was a white-hued haven with rustic wooden tables, cozy antique chairs, and woodland knick-knacks. It was just the right setting for what Chef Iliana Regan calls “New Gatherer cuisine.”
In each course, the simplicity of seasonal ingredients was elevated by exquisite, imaginative presentation. Many courses brought bits of adventure, from sipping a palate cleanser out of a test tube and sampling soil from a terrarium to licking bear meat and its accompaniments off of a rock. Here, I’ve narrowed it down to the dishes that were most memorable for both flavor and creativity. Early on, I was intrigued by several different preparations of zucchini and beans alongside a wonderfully simple beef tartare, bringing the meat and vegetables together seamlessly. Another unanimous favorite was the creamy corn soup, served with a sturdy wheat biscuit and three spreads: thick honey, sweet tomato jam, and smoky pancetta butter. As I rotated between spreads and bites of soup, the flavors at once recalled my Central Illinois roots and transported the corn to a more elegant place. Later, smoked salmon and cucumber were matched with yogurt and dill to create a sort of deconstructed tzatziki, which was again familiar but also sophisticated. I also adored all the textures and richness in the “stew” with venison three ways – loin, sausage, and tiny cubes of heart – and a mushroom sauce underneath.
On the sweeter side, the “cheese” course composed primarily of mascarpone, cantaloupe, and Queen Anne’s Lace was possibly the most revelatory. The delicate, harmonious flavors came in solid, sorbet, and gelée forms, with little dots of dill pickle sauce that added a surprising sour note. I also loved the dessert that followed (shown in the top photo), its petite meringue mushrooms a nod to the actual mushrooms used in the earthy brownies, which were then balanced in flavor and color by a few forms of raspberry. The whole meal was a fantastic way to say farewell to summer.
The details: Elizabeth Restaurant, 4835 N. Western Ave., Chicago.
