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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #7: Hush puppies and shrimp toast, Parson’s Chicken and Fish

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Hush puppies with ham hock, cream cheese, scallion, and harissa aioli; and shrimp toast with shrimp salad, creme fraiche, butter lettuce, and avocado
Hush puppies with ham hock, cream cheese, scallion, and harissa aioli; and shrimp toast with shrimp salad, creme fraiche, butter lettuce, and avocado

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: It seems like half of Chicago spent their summer lounging on the patio at Parson’s Chicken and Fish, sipping a negroni slushy under the shade of striped umbrellas. While its namesake proteins certainly don’t disappoint, I wanted to spotlight two appetizers that I would go back for again and again: the hush puppies and the shrimp toast. The shrimp salad screamed fresh, with a subtle drizzle of creme fraiche and avocado atop butter lettuce and golden Texas toast. And dunking those perfectly fried, ham hock-and-scallion-studded cornmeal balls into a spicy harissa aioli was nothing short of bar snack heaven.

View another Best Bite from Parson’s.

The details: Parson’s Chicken and Fish, 2952 W Armitage Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #5: Goat cheese chilaquiles, Estrella Negra

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

La  Jaras goat cheese chilaquiles with over-easy eggs, bean dip, salsa verde, guacamole, and sour cream
La Jaras goat cheese chilaquiles with over-easy eggs, chicken, bean dip, salsa verde, guacamole, and sour cream

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: I’ve driven by Estrella Negra multiple times a week for years now, but didn’t make it in for breakfast until the middle of this year. The goat cheese chilaquiles were cheesy and filling, with extra-crunchy tortilla strips, hearty beans, and runny egg yolk that blended everything together. I also liked the use of salsa verde and guacamole to brighten up a dish that’s typically dominated by red sauce.

The details: Estrella Negra, 2346 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #4: Pan pizza, Pequod’s

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Pequod's deep-dish pizza with sausage and black olive
Pequod’s deep-dish pizza with sausage and black olive

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: It turns out that Pequod’s is a well-kept pizza secret among locals. It doesn’t pop up on most of the standard deep-dish lists (Giordano’s, Gino’s East, Lou Malnati’s – you know the drill), but was definitely the best version I ate all year. The key is the blackened cheese rim around the crust which gives each slice extra caramelized crunch. Huge chunks of fennel-laced Italian sausage and salty olives made excellent toppings; I’m partial to spinach as well. Take out-of-town guests here and you’ll feel like a true Chicago insider.

I also recommend reading my friend’s great account of our meal for Groupon.

The details: Pequod’s Pizza, 2207 N. Clybourn Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #2: English breakfast, Au Cheval

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

English breakfast
English breakfast with bacon, eggs, baked beans, griddled tomatoes, and toast

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: While this humble breakfast doesn’t attract the same attention as Au Cheval’s legendary burger, I was just as impressed by how flawlessly each component was executed. These aren’t just scrambled eggs, but impeccably fluffy, just-buttery-enough scrambled eggs; not just bacon, but thick-cut, well-peppered bacon with considerable heft. My favorite part was the blistered griddled tomato, which was juicy, salty, and meaty enough to almost act as a protein on its own. Time Out Chicago did a great breakdown of what goes into this dish.

View a past Best Bite from Au Cheval.

The details: Au Cheval, 800 W Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

2013 Best Bite #1: Choco Taco sundae, Little Goat Diner

Each day in December, I’m celebrating the rest of the best bites (and sips) that I didn’t get to blog about in 2013, posted in chronological order. Browse all of this year’s Best Bites, or look back at 2012’s Best Bites.

Choco Taco sundae
Choco Taco sundae with sour cream ice cream, quick hardening chocolate sauce, goat’s milk caramel, candied pepitas, whipped cream, and chocolate-sauce-dipped tortilla chips

Why it’s another 2013 Best Bite: This sundae was the perfect way to cap off the evening after a wine-and-painting event (and yes, our still-wet paintings sat next to us in the booth, much to the amusement of our server). Sure, it captured all the nostalgic flavors and textures of a childhood Choco Taco treat, but – in typical Stephanie Izard fashion – was also impressively sophisticated. The subtle tang of sour cream gelato together with luscious goat’s milk caramel and chocolate presented in two crunchy ways made it the most satisfying sundae I ate all year.

View a past Best Bite from Little Goat Diner: Fat Elvis waffles.

The details: Little Goat Diner, 820 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Octopus skewer and Lima Llama cocktail, Tanta

Pulpo (octopus) with chimichurri, fried garlic, and olive sauce
Pulpo (octopus) with chimichurri, fried garlic, and olive sauce

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Nearly three-month-old Tanta is carving a new place in the Chicago culinary landscape for its upscale take on Peruvian food, a type of cuisine that I consistently enjoy. I was immediately refreshed by the Lima Llama (think Moscow mule, but with Peruvian pisco and lots of lime), one of the two cocktails on draft. It was the perfect precursor to one of the best octopus dishes I’ve ever had, right up there with Taxim’s Greek version from earlier this year. Cooked in the style of street-food skewers, the plump tentacles were draped with roasted red pepper, which added its own complementary char and spice. The extra-garlicky chimichurri potatoes underneath were like a more exotic version of hashbrowns, brought together by a briny, brilliantly purple olive sauce. The bright colors were what really made the plate – which seems to be Tanta’s strategy across its vibrant menu.

Lima Llama draft cocktail with pisco, lime, and ginger beer
Lima Llama draft cocktail with pisco, lime, and ginger beer

The details: Tanta, 118 W. Grand Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Fresh pappardelle with wild boar ragu, Piccolo Sogno

Tree canopy and lights on the lovely patio
Tree canopy and lights on the lovely patio

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: This is one of those restaurants that’s been in the back of my mind since I moved to Chicago, but still had yet to try. The day my roommate finished her second Chicago Marathon was finally the right opportunity to make plans for celebratory pasta and wine. As expected, the pasta was excellent. The wide, toothsome pappardelle noodles stood up to the hearty boar ragu, with the spiced, carrot-forward warmth that’s so comforting in a slow-cooked sauce. Getting to dine outside was what really clenched it, though – Piccolo Sogno (Italian for “little dream”) is nearly as well-known for its back patio as it is for its food, and I now see why. The atmosphere is nothing short of magical, its fairy-tale trees stretching over to ivy-covered walls to form a lush, softly lit hideaway. Come spring, I’ll be back for more pasta under the stars.

Pappardelle with spiced wild boar ragu and fresh parmesan
Fresh pappardelle with spiced wild boar ragu and fresh parmesan
Bread basket with house-bottled olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar
Bread basket with house-bottled olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar

The details: Piccolo Sogno, 464 N. Halsted St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: artisanal cheese board and Oktoberfest beer, Revolution Brewing

Revolution's German-style Oktoberfest beer
Revolution’s German-style Oktoberfest beer

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Of all the great things ushered in by this new season, autumnal beers are near the top of the list. And while I’m always excited to try whatever new offerings are on tap at Revolution’s Logan Square brewpub, this year’s Oktoberfest has proven to be one of my all-time favorites. It had lots of caramel and spice notes without being too heavy, and would pair well with pretty much any fall food. I typically skip over cheese plates when reading a menu, but this thoughtful board was a good reminder to stop overlooking them. The three cheese selections on a recent weeknight were each excellent, especially the smoked gorgonzola (I had to restrain myself from devouring all the pieces on the board). The spiced pears, pickled vegetables, and candied peanuts all offered pleasant contrasts without clashing with any of the cheeses. Between that and the other dishes we ordered, Revolution is continuing to prove that it takes its food just as seriously as its beer.

Revolution Brewing artisanal cheeses
Wild rice gouda, aged cheddar, and smoked gorgonzola cheeses, with pear compote, pickled vegetables, candied peanut, and spent grain crackers

The details: Revolution Brewing, 2323 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Parm #2, Publican Quality Meats

Parm #2 sandwich with breaded chicken cutlet, basil tomato sauce, fried sage, and mozzarella on a Franks 'n’ Dawgs roll
Parm #2 sandwich with breaded chicken cutlet, basil tomato sauce, fried sage, and mozzarella on a Franks n’ Dawgs roll

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Whenever I’m at a Randolph Street restaurant and have extra time, especially if I’m with someone who’s new to the area, I’ll wander into nearby Publican Quality Meats, the café and butcher-shop sibling of The Publican across the street. I love browsing all the artisanal pantry items that line the shelves and gazing longingly at the deli case (I have to remind myself every single time that no, I still don’t need to buy four of the ready-to-bake stuffed dates from Avec to eat at home). PQM also makes outstanding sandwiches, and a friend and I decided to finally dine in and savor the last bit of patio weather. The clear favorite was this take on a chicken parmesan sandwich, with richly flavored marinara, melty mozzarella, and crispy sage surrounding the chicken cutlet. And it was a genius move to put it all on the same spongy split-top roll that’s used at gourmet hot dog joint Franks ‘N’ Dawgs – a toasted repackaging of an Italian classic.

The details: Publican Quality Meats, 825 W. Fulton Market St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: 11 City French Toast, Eleven Lincoln Park

11 City French Toast, with challah, strawberries, bananas, and toasted coconut
11 City French Toast, with challah, strawberries, bananas, and toasted coconut

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: South Loop brunch favorite Eleven City Diner recently opened a second location in Lincoln Park, complete with an old-fashioned soda fountain and other charming touches. With so many promising savory options (bagels and lox! Latkes! Egg dishes galore!), I even surprised myself when I went with the signature french toast instead. But now it’s hard for me imagine ordering anything else because it was just. That. Good. The fresh-baked challah is the star, striking that elusive french-toast balance of a crispy, golden crust outside and a super-soft inside without being the least bit soggy or overly eggy. Fresh strawberries and bananas with a dusting of powdered sugar always make an excellent topping, but it was the extra crunch of the toasted coconut that brought the dish to another magical level. It was too much toast to finish on the spot, but the challah held up well as leftovers.

The details: Eleven Lincoln Park, 2301 N Clark St., Chicago