Category: Chicago

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: RPM Italian

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at RPM Italian

Prime beef meatballs
Prime beef meatballs

Best Bite: The meatballs boasted major beef flavor, with enough moisture to retain a smooth texture, and the house-made ravioli was silky and nutty. But it was the chocolate budino dessert that stole my heart: a rich chocolate pudding with a salt-flecked layer of caramel, and crunchy coated cocoa nibs on top. I didn’t understand why the handle of its accompanying spoon was quite so long, but it didn’t stop me from finishing every drop. See full menu.

Bill's chocolate budino with salted caramel and cocoa nibs
Bill’s chocolate budino with salted caramel and cocoa nibs (plus an extra-long spoon)

Other notes: Bill and Giuliana Rancic are partners in the restaurant, so I assumed the dining room’s aesthetic would be ultra-polished for its clientele – and it was, everything in stylish black and white. The “cicchetti” of provolone-stuffed peppers and florentine frittelles were nice snacks to start off the meal.

Ravioli a la RPM with walnuts and arugula pesto
Ravioli a la RPM with walnuts and arugula pesto

The details: RPM Italian, 52 W. Illinois St., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: ZED451

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at ZED451

Red apple orchard sangria (shiraz, brandy, apple juice, and cinnamon sticks) at our fireside table
Red apple orchard sangria (shiraz, brandy, apple juice, and cinnamon sticks) at our fireside table

Best Bite: ZED451’s churrasceria-style format was a hit with our group of nine. The $33 menu price included all we could eat from the “harvest table” of salads and charcuterie, plus unlimited chicken, steak, and salmon, and a final dessert, so it was an especially good Restaurant Week value. Several of the harvest table’s offerings were creative, flavorful mash-ups, such as guacamole deviled eggs and caesar salad made from brussels sprouts. With so many more eclectic options than that of a standard salad bar, it was even easier to fill up before the meat arrived. I also took the suggestion of a sign at the charcuterie station and saved some of the Shiraz butter to spread onto a piece of sirloin (it was a great suggestion). A pitcher of cinnamon-apple sangria also suited the festive occasion. See full menu.

Brussels sprout caesar salad, guacamole deviled eggs, spicy Thai apple and carrot salads, sauteed wild mushrooms, and more bounty from the harvest table
Broccoli cheddar soup, brussels sprout caesar salad, guacamole deviled eggs, spicy Thai apple and carrot salads, sautéed wild mushrooms, and more bounty from the harvest table

Other notes: Somewhere between our second round of salads and the first round of meat, our server brought miniature, meat-studded biscuits served in a repurposed escargot pan – with melted butter in the middle round spot – that were very popular at our table. The buzzing atmosphere was great for a large group, with our long table extending out from a sizable round fireplace in the center of the room. As a final touch that was befitting of tony River North, the restaurant offered us a free private shuttle that took us a few miles north toward our next destination.

Chef slicing sirloin for the table
A chef slicing top sirloin for the table

The details: ZED451, 739 N. Clark St., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Homestead on the Roof

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Homestead on the Roof

Bread basket with assorted breads, house pickles, honey butter, and tomato-herb oil
Bread basket with assorted breads, house pickles, honey butter, and tomato-herb oil

Best Bite: As soon as the bread basket arrived, with jars of honey butter and tomato-herb oil ready to slather on cornbread and laminated brioche, I knew it was going to be an exceptionally thoughtful meal. Fresh, seasonal ingredients came together beautifully in all three courses, but dessert is the one I’m still thinking about most. The dish was a tantalizing combination of rolled dark chocolate cremeux, tiny crystallized thyme leaves, bourbon-scented powder, a slick of toasted marshmallow, and earthy beets two ways: in thin vanilla slices and as creamy sorbet. I loved everything about it – which I never thought I would say about a beet dessert. See full menu.

Beet dessert with chocolate cremeux, crystalized thyme, and beet buttermilk sherbet
Beet dessert with chocolate cremeux, crystalized thyme, and beet buttermilk sherbet

Other notes: The pan-fried, maple-glazed sweetbreads entree packed richness into a light portion. I’m proud to report that two of my girlfriends were feeling adventurous and ordered the sweetbreads as well – both were first-timers, and both approved! I also loved the whimsical tuft of cotton candy on top of the chestnut dessert, among other creative garnishes. The indoor space had a rustic feel, with reclaimed windows as creative dividers, but I’m looking forward to going back in the spring for the full outdoor rooftop experience.

Maple-glazed sweetbreads with pickled pears and salsify puree
Maple-glazed sweetbreads with pickled pears and salsify puree

The details: Homestead on the Roof, 1924 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Naha

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Naha

Braised pork shank "off the bone" and carnaroli risotto with squash, caramelized onions, and wilted kale
Braised pork shank “off the bone” and carnaroli risotto with squash, caramelized onions, and wilted kale

Best Bite: Naha is a Chicago institution for locally sourced, seasonal cuisine, and I was really looking forward to finally dining there. Uncharacteristically, I ordered pork for both my first and second courses, but I certainly did not regret it. I still can’t decide which impossibly tender preparation I preferred: the sweeter belly with apples and fennel atop pastry crust with a swipe of sweet quince marmalade; or the rich braised shank, with flawless risotto and the best crispy kale I’ve ever had. See full menu.

"Tarte tatin" of winter harvested apples and pork belly with quince marmalade and shaved fennel
“Tarte tatin” of winter harvested apples and pork belly with quince marmalade and shaved fennel

Other notes: I was charmed by the cookie platter, although I’m glad my dining companions also shared their chocolate cheesecake and cheese plate with me – the latter’s selection of three cheeses were unanimously proclaimed to be “stupid good.” Service was appropriately attentive for the elegant atmosphere. My wine-savvy friend selected an outstanding bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir to pair with our meal, but I doubt you could go wrong with anything from the luxe wine list.

Cookie assortment
Cookie assortment

The details: Naha, 500 N. Clark St., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: CH Distillery

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at CH Distillery

Distillery interior
Distillery interior

Best Bite: Technically, I had two out of the three available options as my third course: a slice of cake that was gooey and sweet, just as it should be, and a revelatory dessert cocktail with round flavors of vanilla and lemon that were superbly balanced with bitters. In fact, that course was representative of the whole meal. All the dishes were thoughtfully composed, but the cocktails ended up stealing the spotlight – I tasted three others made with in-house spirits, each one more complex and interesting than the next. At a distillery, though, I’m perfectly OK with that pattern. See full menu (third course is outdated).

Gooey butter cake and The Travel Agent dessert cocktail, with CH vanilla-infused rum, limoncello, lemon, and peychaud's bitters
Gooey butter cake and The Travel Agent dessert cocktail, with CH vanilla-infused rum, limoncello, lemon, and peychaud’s bitters

Other notes: The sweetness and spices in the butternut squash soup reminded me a lot of this one, adapted from a Rick Bayless recipe – which was definitely a good thing. For the gravlax entree, buttery salmon was cured with CH gin, which added citrus and floral notes, and beets, which gave it a burgundy hue. The fish, joined by lemon, dill, and a cracker-like flatbread for crunch, was a perfect complement to the cocktails. I really loved the space, too, from the glowing bar and fiber-optic lighting to the clear view of the gleaming stills and other equipment.

Butternut squash soup with creme fraiche
Butternut squash soup with creme fraiche

The details: CH Distillery, 564 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Ada Street

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Ada Street

Spicy Moroccan carrot salad with Greek yogurt, ginger, lime, and grilled scallions, inspired by Alice Waters
Spicy Moroccan carrot salad with Greek yogurt, ginger, lime, and grilled scallions, inspired by Alice Waters

Best Bite: Executive chef Zoë Schor designed Ada Street’s Restaurant Week menu around a unique theme: each option for the three courses paid tribute to a different female chef. As impressed as I was with all the concepts, I was the most wowed by a seemingly simple carrot salad based on an Alice Waters recipe. The flash-blanched carrot slices and grilled scallions were fresh and aromatic, with a cool yogurt sauce that tempered the pleasant heat from chiles and spices. Everyone at our table agreed they couldn’t get enough. See full menu.

Scrumpets with crispy fried lamb shoulder and minted malt vinegar, inspired by April Bloomfield
Scrumpets with crispy fried lamb shoulder and minted malt vinegar, inspired by April Bloomfield

Other notes: I also loved the crispy lamb scrumpets, the only dish that’s also offered on Ada Street’s regular menu. For entrees, the smoked carrot puree that accompanied the pork loin was a brilliant addition, and the classic bouillabaisse did Julia Child justice, down to the last briny, saffron-scented drop. Don’t be swayed by the off-the-beaten-path location: finding this cozy, dimly lit hideaway is totally worth it.

Bouillabaisse with Bangs Island mussels, manila clams, gulf shrimp, cobia, saffron-infused broth, and toasted baguette, inspired by Julia Child
Bouillabaisse with Bangs Island mussels, manila clams, gulf shrimp, cobia, saffron-infused broth, and toasted baguette, inspired by Julia Child

The details: Ada Street, 1664 N. Ada St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Foie gras, Acadia

Miso-cured and grilled foie gras with pineapple, chocolate, almond cookie, unagi, and malt
Miso-cured and grilled foie gras with pineapple, chocolate, almond cookie, unagi, and malt

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Pardon my gushing, but this was one of those dishes that only comes along every once in a while, the kind where you sigh over every bite and can’t even put together the words to describe how good it is because you’re in such a state of bliss. I love foie gras, and Acadia’s preparation has set a new standard for me. The thick slab of miso-cured foie rivaled the size of my iPhone, and captured the flame-licked meatiness of a grilled steak – that is, if a steak melted into richness and practically disappeared on your tongue. Compressed pineapple underneath hit a bright, juicy note, and the accompanying smoked banana puree, almond cookie crumbles, and unagi sauce all came together in beautiful, if unlikely, harmony. And the chocolate nest was served at the perfect temperature: each curlicue kept its shape on the plate, but softened into a coating as soon as it hit the warm foie. Executive chef Ryan McCaskey clearly has a deft hand in showcasing sweet flavors while still maintaining balance. This foie gras was the second course of a spectacular dining experience that I would recommend for any special occasion.

The details: Acadia, 1639 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago.

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Chicago Restaurant Week

Restaurant Week 2014: Graham Elliot Bistro

This is part of a series of posts about Chicago Restaurant Week 2014, held January 24–February 6. Check out the 2013 recap, or browse all Restaurant Week coverage.

Dinner at Graham Elliot Bistro

Beef stroganoff with mustard spaetzle, mushroom, and peppered cream
Beef stroganoff with mustard spaetzle, mushroom, and peppered cream

Best Bite: The signature beef short rib stroganoff was an ideal winter entree, with a substantial portion of tender meat flanked by hearty mushrooms and dabs of peppery cream sauce. And if a dish comes with spaetzle, I will mostly likely order it, so I was especially impressed by this spot-on mustard variety. The soup course came in a close second-favorite, a chestnut bisque with a surprising combination of sweetness and complexity from allspice, sage, and rosemary marshmallow. See full menu.

Banana split with vanilla bean, candied hazelnut, and pretzel crumb
Banana split with vanilla bean, candied hazelnut, and pretzel crumb

Other notes: I loved the dessert presentation of a layered banana split in a mason jar. I’m also pretty sure our table was the best in the house: a private, high-backed booth with room to spare for our four-person party and a brightly colored stained glass window enclosing one end.

Stained glass window enclosing our table
Stained glass window enclosing our table

The details: Graham Elliot Bistro, 841 W. Randolph St., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Musclemen ramen, Oiistar

Musclemen ramen with mussels, onion, chili pepper, scallion, and bonito miso
Musclemen ramen with mussels, onion, chili pepper, scallion, and bonito miso

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: When a ramen craving struck me on a snowy afternoon, I popped over to Oiistar, a relatively new Wicker Park spot I’d been eyeing. Bypassing all the tempting varieties of bao, and even the avocado tempura – next time! – I zeroed in on a mussel-centric ramen. Besides at least a dozen plump mussels, the giant bowl also contained an umami-rich seafood broth with chewy noodles, two kinds of onion, and tons of garlic. Moderately spicy chiles also upped the soup’s warmth factor. Happily rotating between slurps of noodles, mussels, and broth, I settled in with a book and soaked up the sounds of the restaurant’s catchy R&B playlist.

The details: Oiistar, 1385 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

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Best Bites Chicago

This week’s Best Bite: Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake, baked egg & more from brunch, Avec

Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake with apple-rosemary compote and whipped cream
Wood-fired Dutch baby pancake with apple-rosemary compote and whipped cream

Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: After a decade of being dinner-only, Avec launched brunch service last summer – an announcement that made the Chicago food world collectively squeal with delight. While I’ve already blogged about Avec’s legendary stuffed dates, which we ordered almost reflexively, the other stellar brunch plates merited a post of their own. The day’s special was the wood-fired pancake, a velvety stunner cooked in a cast-iron pan and topped with fragrant apple-rosemary compote and mounds of whipped cream. Its Dutch Baby–style texture was unbelievable. Meanwhile, the baked egg dish showed off Avec’s Mediterranean leanings. Its sauce was layered with surprising flavors: chickpeas, roasted peppers of all kinds, and salty feta, all begging to be sopped up with the bread on the side.

Baked egg with roasted peppers, chickpeas, guanciale, feta, and breadcrumbs
Baked egg with roasted peppers, chickpeas, guanciale, feta, and breadcrumbs
Marinated butcher's steak with squash polenta, charred radicchio, pepita pesto, and a fried egg
Marinated butcher’s steak with squash polenta, charred radicchio, pepita pesto, and a fried egg

Another favorite was the butcher’s steak, probably the most beautiful steak-and-eggs in history. The fried egg was perfect, and the steak, ultra-tender from the marinade, shone even brighter with bold accompaniments of charred radicchio, squash polenta, pesto, parsley, and crunchy pepitas. As hard as it was to see this meal come to a close, the indulgence of the stuffed dates at the beginning was evenly matched by the petite nutter butter squares at its conclusion. Don’t miss these: the peanut butter-chocolate base, subtle feuilletine crunch, smooth ganache, and a sprinkling of sea salt made it the ultimate last bite.

Nutter butters as a final bite
Nutter butters as a final bite

The details: Avec, 615 W Randolph St., Chicago.

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